100 Yard or 200 Yard Zero for Dialers I’m Hunting Rigs

[tdhanses]

100, ask yourself why 200 and really think about it.

 

[tdhanses]

200 yards and card that shows me precisely which hash mark in the reticle to use for shots to 1000 yards in 25 yard increments. Hunting situations can happen fast. No time to dope.

Really, so you have the marks for 25 yards intervals past 200 out to 1000, but yup 100 out to 900 just won’t give you enough time, lol.

 

[Jbehredt]

For dialing, as mentioned, 100. You want your zero as precise as possible. For holdover I’ll do 200 to extend my MPBR.

 

[Cdroot89]

I use a 200 yard zero. If I can’t find a place to shoot 200 yards to check my zero I know where I should be at 100 yards. I just like it because I have to dial slightly less and there isn’t much bullet rise/drop in the first 200 yards. Of course if I am hunting in very thick stuff and I know I won’t have any long shots, I just use a gun that doesn’t dial and has a lower power scope.

 

[menhaden_man]

Understanding and Using MPBR (Maximum Point Blank Range) — Ron Spomer Outdoors

Zeroing a rifle for maximum point blank range can keep you on targets for perfect hits out to 300, perhaps even 400 yards without the need for ranging precisely, dialing turrets, or choosing sub-reticles.

ronspomeroutdoors.com

 

[KurtR]

100 for all the stated reasons

 

[Fatcamp]

100. Just how I do it.

 

[ckleeves]

Really, so you have the marks for 25 yards intervals past 200 out to 1000, but yup 100 out to 900 just won’t give you enough time, lol.

Lol exactly what I was thinking. I’m curious who takes a 1000 yard shot that happens so fast you can’t even spend the 2 seconds to dial. The really long shots I have taken have taken a minute or 10 to set up between getting a few ranges to verify , kestrel readings, rear support and bipod perfect, maybe even a dry fire thrown in. I’m curious the hit % on these 1000 yard snapshots.


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[4ester]

Zero at 100 yards

If you know your dope you can turn the turret to 200 or whatever and leave it there when in the field.


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[Timeee123]

100. Aside from all the great points zero at 200 makes 50 yard shots funky. Sometimes you get a close shot

 

[mt100gr.]

Lol exactly what I was thinking. I’m curious who takes a 1000 yard shot that happens so fast you can’t even spend the 2 seconds to dial. The really long shots I have taken have taken a minute or 10 to set up between getting a few ranges to verify , kestrel readings, rear support and bipod perfect, maybe even a dry fire thrown in. I’m curious the hit % on these 1000 yard snapshots.


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I'd rather not know hit % on those shots

I'd be more curious to see how often that guess chart data is actually validated at distance. Man, you'd have to hold your mouth just right when temp, DA, and a 25 yard increment all come together.

 

[Sobrbiker]

I zero at 100, but will also dial the scope to whatever PBR for the kill radius of the quarry I’m hunting sometimes. This way if something pops up during while “spot and stalking” or hiking to a glassing area within the range of the caliber’s PBR I’m good to go. Anything that time or distance allows/demands-I dial

 

[tdhanses]

Lol exactly what I was thinking. I’m curious who takes a 1000 yard shot that happens so fast you can’t even spend the 2 seconds to dial. The really long shots I have taken have taken a minute or 10 to set up between getting a few ranges to verify , kestrel readings, rear support and bipod perfect, maybe even a dry fire thrown in. I’m curious the hit % on these 1000 yard snapshots.


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My guess and this might sound harsh but he‘s never shot past 200. Heck even at 300 if you position yourself correctly take your time and wait for a good shot.

 

[16Bore]

The closer the shot, the less time you have to pull it off.

Except for this one damn doe I shot at +/-15’. Stared me down for 10 minutes.

 

[Howard Mee]

I’ll add this.
You could try both and see what you prefer, but after that initial test phase, I would suggest that you stick with that decision and avoid bouncing back and forth.
Just my opinion.
When I finally get the chance to shoot the animal I’m chasing, I want to keep things as simple, streamlined and systematic as possible. My brain doesn’t always think clearly in those moments.



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[SDHNTR]

If you think about it, a 100yd zero is what makes sense. I also carry my rifle "dialed" for 250 walking around, but you should zero at 100. Having the fewest influencing variables on your true zero is important, and this just gets more true with distance.

Right. Which is why you zero at 200. So you have a point and shoot hold for anything inside of 300 yards, where the vast majority of shots occur.

 

[barrister]

200 yards zero for me which makes a great MPBR and minimizes the times I actually need to dial. Point and shoot for the close shots when time could be of the essence. Then you can still dial for the longer shots when there’s a better chance of having more time for adjustments.

 

[SDHNTR]

100. Aside from all the great points zero at 200 makes 50 yard shots funky. Sometimes you get a close shot

Actually with most standard centerfire hunting rifles like a 308, 270, 3006 in the like, 50 yards and 200 yards are going to both be pretty close to zero. Check a trajectory chart.

 

[Montana Slim]

Right. Which is why you zero at 200. So you have a point and shoot hold for anything inside of 300 yards, where the vast majority of shots occur.

Nope. Still zero at 100 and dial for more when walking around. Principle is the same - minimize error.

 

[Timeee123]

Actually with most standard centerfire hunting rifles like a 308, 270, 3006 in the like, 50 yards and 200 yards are going to both be pretty close to zero. Check a trajectory chart.

I dunno. I shoot a lot of up hill and down hill shots and it seems to make a difference. Just based off personal experience