The new bow is all put together and I'm very satisfied with how its been tuning up, I shared some of my results with robby denning and William Hanson (live2hunt) on a thread and was asked to outline the steps I've taken thus far to get to where it currently sits. I also wanted to include the resources that I used to get there as I strongly encourage someone working on the new bow to give them a good read! I'm excited to share my results here as this is my first bow build start to finish. After being at the mercy of a bow shop my first year getting into archery last year I decided when I ordered the new bow that I just wanted to jump in with two feet and learn how to do everything on my own. Hopefully this will help some other guys in the same boat to take the leap with me, It's been one of the most rewarding aspects of my short archery career so far (as well as shooting and hunting of course).
I decided to go with the regular RX1 over the Ultra even though my draw length is probably longer than average and well suited for the Ultra. I had the Defiant Aluminum 34 last year and loved it however I'm eager to try different setups, at 30'' I'm actually at the last slot on the #3 cam getting the most efficiency, in theory a 32'' ATA with larger cams and a better string angle seems to be close to "just right" for a hunting setup getting benefits from better string angle and a more compact package. So far I'm digging the RX1 no question, I have shot the Ultra since and also like that option so maybe a backup bow if I could save up for another. Maybe even one setup more for 3D and longer distance...
Resources to consider:
-First and foremost, read the owners manual that comes with the bow. If you're waiting for it on order it is available for download on the Hoyt website as well as the next resource.
-2018 Hoyt Product Technical Bulletin found on Hoyt's website. VERY helpful when getting an initial tune. (hoyt.com/support middle of page under product literature)
-YouTube video "Hoyt RX1 REDWRX Bow Build with JOHN DUDLEY- Patriot Edition", very detailed video of a very experienced Hoyt bow expert. The nockonarchery YouTube channel has many other helpful videos also.
To get started here is a list of current components that went into the overall build and bow specs that I ordered it with
Bow: RX1, 70lb limbs, RH, 32" ATA, 85% letoff mods, Buckskin Riser, Black limbs, #3 Cam @ 30" draw length (coming in at 71 lbs)
Rest: Nock On Elevate Limb Driven Rest (2.0 model maybe?) upgraded version of the AAE Pro Drop
Sight: Custom Montana Black Gold Ascent Verdict Assault 4 Pin
Stabilizer: Fuse Carbon Torch FX 8"
Arrows: Easton Axis 5mm pro match grade 300 spine, 50 grain brass hit insert, 100 gr point, 3 fletch AAE 2.8" max stealth 2-3 degree straight offset, nockturnal x nock, cut to 29" from throat of nock to end of carbon shaft= 513 gr @ 280 fps
Initial Build, Set up, and Tuning:
1.) First things first, set draw length to 30". I had already tested this bow at my draw length in the cam position for in the identicle bow so went straight to the cam slot and peg adjustments (new design for 2018, similar to Defiant DFX however)
2.) Check and adjust timing as necessary. Mine was relatively close, top cam was hitting about 3/16" ahead of the bottom cam. Hoyt specified in their technical bulletin that ideally both cams cable stops should touch the cables at the same time or the top cam slightly ahead of bottom but no more than 1/16" ahead of bottom cam. To correct I had to add equal amounts of twists to the yoke cables where they connect at the TOP. You are not supposed to mess with the twists in the bottom buss cable to correct timing. Final timing ended coming in pretty close to both cams hitting at the same time with the top ahead of the bottom maybe 1/32-1/64" ahead.
3.) Visually check cam lean (at brace). According to the Hoyt Technical Bulletin, these bows have been designed to tune with the top cam in the most verticle stright up and down position. I found this to be absolutely correct (at brace). I just eye balled it and moved forward with setup and later had to correct this after putting a straight edge on each side of the cam to check lean, you can also use an arrow shaft.
4.) Install rest, visually ensure rest is level. I secured it in the most rearward position as to my understanding this is best for torque. Also the rest was plenty far enough from the tech riser and centered between the shelf and tech riser that when all the way to the rear and level provides a good baseline in the event it ever comes loose (I like redundancy). At that time I visually did a coarse center shot adjustment by centering the arrow shaft in the center of the riser, close to center of the tiller bolt, and close to 13/16" from center of arrow shaft to riser. With the rest at its most center or zeroed position the bottom of the arrow shaft runs right through the center of the berger button hole so I started with that and it tuned up in that position.
5.) Tie in D-loop with nock sets to set nock pinch and check nock fit. Set the nocking point at 90 degrees to the string and level using a basic arrow leveling kit (the yellow ones that are most common).The nockturnal x nock fits excellent on the factory string/serving combination. Roughly 5/8-3/4" D-loop to avoid torquing the string with the release. Leaving 1/16" (maybe) Gap below nock to avoid nock pinch. Later found out how critical this really is...
6.) Install Peep sight and tie in, check with sight quick for alignment. I later changed this to get really dialed in as it was different then my last bow and I didn't know at the time that i can set this in a draw board by measuring from center of arrow shaft to center of peep.
7.)Install Sight and level 1st, 2nd, 3rd axis. This can happen really at any time after initial tune however convenient while its in the vice if the tools are handy.
8.) Initial paper tuning. Heres where I learned alot about proper form and bow setup. I consistently was getting a nock high right tear. Even after making several adjustments to the rest with little to no change in the paper tear. The solution ended up being a couple different things that i know are from me not the bow design. After returning the rest to the initial baseline that's when I checked cam lean with a straight edge and discovered that the cam did have a slight lean toward the cable guard. Had to add a total of 3 twists to the right yoke cable to stand the cam up perfectly straight and also had to re set the cam timing as a result. This corrected most of the nock high right tear however consistently was getting right or high right tears so this is where I stepped back and assessed my own form and realized that i was twisting my release hand more so than I should as well as I lost my nock pinch after shooting the bow for a while. Which was just the serving bunching up and pinching the nock. So to summarize that the issue was cam lean, release hand position, and nock pinch. After I figured that out It shot a perfect bullet hole with very little rest adjustment. This was up close roughly 3-5 ft so I also checked it at 5 yards and found it a hair nock high still and with another quick adjustment is was punching bullet holes at 5 yards as well (Bumped rest up just a hair).
Currently this setup has really impressed me and is easy enough for a relatively new archer to get dialed in. On the days where the weather has been decent enough outside to shoot, It grouped really well with the bow/arrow combination. The final arrow build is still yet to be determined as I haven't group tested point weight combinations yet, and also want to try the 260 spine option as well with a bit heavier overall build. The way its shooting now I feel that I'll be sticking with the current arrow build though. The other day I was consistently putting 3 arrows inside of 1 inch at 30 yards and 3 arrows inside of 3 inches at 50 yards if I could time the wind right.
So after figuring out what the bow liked I can say that I wish I would have known about the info put out by Hoyt regarding the cam lean as I would have just straightened that out right off the get go. Which is not at all a discredit to the design or Hoyt, thats just lack of knowlage on my end with a new setup. If a guy does that first you can adjust timing only once as well which would save a step. Aside from correcting my hand position the only other thing that has given me any real issue is getting a good nock fit. I'm still working on that one to be honest, to my understanding the serving can bunch up sometimes if its not bound tight enough from the factory. It doesn't seem to be negatively effecting the bow too much other than it just keeps putting more pinch pressure on the nock. I would assume that this eventually would change the tune as well so that will be my next step in the process. After I get that portion figured out I will be on to do some broadhead tuning at distance. I'll report back with a follow up to this post with my results, I'm looking forward to testing some more combinations and seeing what this thing is truly capable of come hunting season. Let me know if i can help answer any questions.
I decided to go with the regular RX1 over the Ultra even though my draw length is probably longer than average and well suited for the Ultra. I had the Defiant Aluminum 34 last year and loved it however I'm eager to try different setups, at 30'' I'm actually at the last slot on the #3 cam getting the most efficiency, in theory a 32'' ATA with larger cams and a better string angle seems to be close to "just right" for a hunting setup getting benefits from better string angle and a more compact package. So far I'm digging the RX1 no question, I have shot the Ultra since and also like that option so maybe a backup bow if I could save up for another. Maybe even one setup more for 3D and longer distance...
Resources to consider:
-First and foremost, read the owners manual that comes with the bow. If you're waiting for it on order it is available for download on the Hoyt website as well as the next resource.
-2018 Hoyt Product Technical Bulletin found on Hoyt's website. VERY helpful when getting an initial tune. (hoyt.com/support middle of page under product literature)
-YouTube video "Hoyt RX1 REDWRX Bow Build with JOHN DUDLEY- Patriot Edition", very detailed video of a very experienced Hoyt bow expert. The nockonarchery YouTube channel has many other helpful videos also.
To get started here is a list of current components that went into the overall build and bow specs that I ordered it with
Bow: RX1, 70lb limbs, RH, 32" ATA, 85% letoff mods, Buckskin Riser, Black limbs, #3 Cam @ 30" draw length (coming in at 71 lbs)
Rest: Nock On Elevate Limb Driven Rest (2.0 model maybe?) upgraded version of the AAE Pro Drop
Sight: Custom Montana Black Gold Ascent Verdict Assault 4 Pin
Stabilizer: Fuse Carbon Torch FX 8"
Arrows: Easton Axis 5mm pro match grade 300 spine, 50 grain brass hit insert, 100 gr point, 3 fletch AAE 2.8" max stealth 2-3 degree straight offset, nockturnal x nock, cut to 29" from throat of nock to end of carbon shaft= 513 gr @ 280 fps
Initial Build, Set up, and Tuning:
1.) First things first, set draw length to 30". I had already tested this bow at my draw length in the cam position for in the identicle bow so went straight to the cam slot and peg adjustments (new design for 2018, similar to Defiant DFX however)
2.) Check and adjust timing as necessary. Mine was relatively close, top cam was hitting about 3/16" ahead of the bottom cam. Hoyt specified in their technical bulletin that ideally both cams cable stops should touch the cables at the same time or the top cam slightly ahead of bottom but no more than 1/16" ahead of bottom cam. To correct I had to add equal amounts of twists to the yoke cables where they connect at the TOP. You are not supposed to mess with the twists in the bottom buss cable to correct timing. Final timing ended coming in pretty close to both cams hitting at the same time with the top ahead of the bottom maybe 1/32-1/64" ahead.
3.) Visually check cam lean (at brace). According to the Hoyt Technical Bulletin, these bows have been designed to tune with the top cam in the most verticle stright up and down position. I found this to be absolutely correct (at brace). I just eye balled it and moved forward with setup and later had to correct this after putting a straight edge on each side of the cam to check lean, you can also use an arrow shaft.
4.) Install rest, visually ensure rest is level. I secured it in the most rearward position as to my understanding this is best for torque. Also the rest was plenty far enough from the tech riser and centered between the shelf and tech riser that when all the way to the rear and level provides a good baseline in the event it ever comes loose (I like redundancy). At that time I visually did a coarse center shot adjustment by centering the arrow shaft in the center of the riser, close to center of the tiller bolt, and close to 13/16" from center of arrow shaft to riser. With the rest at its most center or zeroed position the bottom of the arrow shaft runs right through the center of the berger button hole so I started with that and it tuned up in that position.
5.) Tie in D-loop with nock sets to set nock pinch and check nock fit. Set the nocking point at 90 degrees to the string and level using a basic arrow leveling kit (the yellow ones that are most common).The nockturnal x nock fits excellent on the factory string/serving combination. Roughly 5/8-3/4" D-loop to avoid torquing the string with the release. Leaving 1/16" (maybe) Gap below nock to avoid nock pinch. Later found out how critical this really is...
6.) Install Peep sight and tie in, check with sight quick for alignment. I later changed this to get really dialed in as it was different then my last bow and I didn't know at the time that i can set this in a draw board by measuring from center of arrow shaft to center of peep.
7.)Install Sight and level 1st, 2nd, 3rd axis. This can happen really at any time after initial tune however convenient while its in the vice if the tools are handy.
8.) Initial paper tuning. Heres where I learned alot about proper form and bow setup. I consistently was getting a nock high right tear. Even after making several adjustments to the rest with little to no change in the paper tear. The solution ended up being a couple different things that i know are from me not the bow design. After returning the rest to the initial baseline that's when I checked cam lean with a straight edge and discovered that the cam did have a slight lean toward the cable guard. Had to add a total of 3 twists to the right yoke cable to stand the cam up perfectly straight and also had to re set the cam timing as a result. This corrected most of the nock high right tear however consistently was getting right or high right tears so this is where I stepped back and assessed my own form and realized that i was twisting my release hand more so than I should as well as I lost my nock pinch after shooting the bow for a while. Which was just the serving bunching up and pinching the nock. So to summarize that the issue was cam lean, release hand position, and nock pinch. After I figured that out It shot a perfect bullet hole with very little rest adjustment. This was up close roughly 3-5 ft so I also checked it at 5 yards and found it a hair nock high still and with another quick adjustment is was punching bullet holes at 5 yards as well (Bumped rest up just a hair).
Currently this setup has really impressed me and is easy enough for a relatively new archer to get dialed in. On the days where the weather has been decent enough outside to shoot, It grouped really well with the bow/arrow combination. The final arrow build is still yet to be determined as I haven't group tested point weight combinations yet, and also want to try the 260 spine option as well with a bit heavier overall build. The way its shooting now I feel that I'll be sticking with the current arrow build though. The other day I was consistently putting 3 arrows inside of 1 inch at 30 yards and 3 arrows inside of 3 inches at 50 yards if I could time the wind right.
So after figuring out what the bow liked I can say that I wish I would have known about the info put out by Hoyt regarding the cam lean as I would have just straightened that out right off the get go. Which is not at all a discredit to the design or Hoyt, thats just lack of knowlage on my end with a new setup. If a guy does that first you can adjust timing only once as well which would save a step. Aside from correcting my hand position the only other thing that has given me any real issue is getting a good nock fit. I'm still working on that one to be honest, to my understanding the serving can bunch up sometimes if its not bound tight enough from the factory. It doesn't seem to be negatively effecting the bow too much other than it just keeps putting more pinch pressure on the nock. I would assume that this eventually would change the tune as well so that will be my next step in the process. After I get that portion figured out I will be on to do some broadhead tuning at distance. I'll report back with a follow up to this post with my results, I'm looking forward to testing some more combinations and seeing what this thing is truly capable of come hunting season. Let me know if i can help answer any questions.
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