2021 Hoyt

Joined
May 6, 2018
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8,824
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Shenandoah Valley
You get that from a dealer? I'm guessing Hoyt isn't going to sell them to the public and your dealer will have to get you one.

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It's at my dealer. He will sell them. Told me street price would probably be around $25. He has several on order.
 

MountainZ

FNG
Joined
Jan 24, 2021
Messages
40
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High Elevation - Sierra Nevadas
I agree. Shimming is a little less precise than yokes, but both are the easiest way of getting the power stroke in line with what the arrow is doing.

Care to explain your reasoning? How is shimming cams easier than moving the rest? You are correct that getting the arrow in line with the power stroke is the goal, but I'm curious about what logic leads you to believe that shimming the cams is the easiest path to this result.
 

jmez

WKR
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Jun 12, 2012
Messages
7,404
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Piedmont, SD
Moving the rest does not straighten the nock travel. It puts the arrow at an angle that matches the nock travel.

Shimming or twisting yokes changes the nock travel.
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Joined
Aug 6, 2016
Messages
468
Care to explain your reasoning? How is shimming cams easier than moving the rest? You are correct that getting the arrow in line with the power stroke is the goal, but I'm curious about what logic leads you to believe that shimming the cams is the easiest path to this result.
It’s the easiest way that I’ve found to keep the centershot down the middle of the grip. Which is where I want it. Usually, I can’t get rid of the tear by the rest alone. Much less bare shaft tune and make the bow shoot how I want it to. Unless it involves a ton of time spent tuning arrows. And even then it’s tough.

I think shimming or yokes are easier and less time consuming. I guess that’s why most companies give you some method of moving the cams.
 

NXTZ

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 15, 2020
Messages
101
How, exactly, would moving the rest "line up the arrow with poor nock travel" if, but the very nature of the movement, it straightens out the nock travel?
If your initial string travel is suboptimal (lateral nock travel) moving the rest just centers the arrow in that “poor” string path. Totally possible to monkey it into a position where arrow flight is somewhat acceptable. But your weapon isn’t preforming at its best. I’ve tried to do that (rest tuning) and NEVER had arrow flight that even COMPARES to yoke/shim adjustments.
Short version-rest has no bearing on FIXING poor string path, just a bandaid.

shimming or yoke tuning can correct/tune that string path and give perfect nock travel. Optimizes that specific bow for that specific shooter.
 

MountainZ

FNG
Joined
Jan 24, 2021
Messages
40
Location
High Elevation - Sierra Nevadas
Perhaps some of you are trying to "tune out" poor form (hand position...). Any method of tuning will involve moving the rest. By making statements grouping yoke tuning and tuning of binary cams together, perhaps there is some oversimplification going on... or a misunderstanding.

If you can change a paper tear or the relative location of bareshafts to fletched arrows, you have changed the nock travel. Such a change can be made without touching yokes or shimming cams. Arrow spine, form, hand position (grip), and draw length will all create such a change.

Hoyt is only offering two alternatives, that I have seen, to the stock shim widths. If you think you are going to get "perfect nock travel" in the power stroke on a binary cam bow by shimming only, and not moving your rest, I guess I don't really have any additional comments. Best of luck tuning your bow.
 

NXTZ

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 15, 2020
Messages
101
I absolutely understand moving the rest a little to fine tune things-not at all opposed to bumping out from spec a little to get the best arrow flight possible. In my case with the ventum, I’ve tried different arrows/spine combos, messed with draw length, anchor, grip, etc. and moved the rest all over hells half acre, and can’t get good arrow flight (compared to other bows I’ve had). Bareshafts and Broadheads always hit left. Can get close, but not good enough.
Hopefully shimming the cams will get me REAL CLOSE. Then I’ll move the rest a tiny bit as needed to get things flying straight
 

Zac

WKR
Joined
Dec 1, 2018
Messages
2,214
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UT
I absolutely understand moving the rest a little to fine tune things-not at all opposed to bumping out from spec a little to get the best arrow flight possible. In my case with the ventum, I’ve tried different arrows/spine combos, messed with draw length, anchor, grip, etc. and moved the rest all over hells half acre, and can’t get good arrow flight (compared to other bows I’ve had). Bareshafts and Broadheads always hit left. Can get close, but not good enough.
Hopefully shimming the cams will get me REAL CLOSE. Then I’ll move the rest a tiny bit as needed to get things flying straight
The other way to tackle this issue is with arrow components. You could always mess around with different point weights. It sounds like your getting a stiff tear so you could just see what an additional 25 up front does.
 

Deerfield

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Nov 25, 2019
Messages
255
Location
South Central PA
I just picked up a Ventum 33 in the wilderness color yesterday. I shot it next to the new Mathews (which is what I went in to buy) and imo the Hoyt blew it out of the water. Such a smoother draw cycle. Initial setup and tuning was pretty easy. I’m looking forward to using this bow.

I tried out the RX5 for giggles while I was there and for the increase in price I just don’t see it.

B9CAC5A6-8842-4E29-BE4A-A05507EAA1F3.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 6, 2016
Messages
468
Finally shot my ventum 33 through the chrono. 70# bottomed out, 28” 455 gr arrow was 274. 470 gr arrow was 269.

455 is good enough for me.
 

Kevin T

FNG
Joined
Jun 2, 2019
Messages
25
Location
Hawaii
Got a Ventum 33 80 lb on order. Hope to get in the 280’s FPS with my Easton axis 496 grain arrow at 28” draw. Currently get about 285fps with the rx3 at 80 lbs. 28” draw #2 cam
 
Joined
Jan 1, 2021
Messages
6
I’m 28/70 with a ventum 33. 300 spine for me has been too stiff. Ended up shimming the cam to the right, and still get a slight right kick with a 27 1/4 ctc rampage 300 shaft, 100gr focus system and 100gr tip. That’s bare shafts at 20. Going to try adding some length to them today to see if it cleans it up any. Might have to go to a 340, and/or quit screwing around with so much FOC.

Doesn’t the right kick indicate weak?


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Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
1,774
I shot the hoyts, the carbon had a better sound at release, but the Mathews V3 was a smoother bow and way quieter. That being said, none of them are making me switch from current bow.
 

Zac

WKR
Joined
Dec 1, 2018
Messages
2,214
Location
UT
In my experience, as a right handed shooter, it generally indicates that the arrow is too stiff.
If your bare shaft and broadheads are hitting to the left that is a stiff tear. This will be a tail right tear through paper. So you would actually need more FOC in order to correct this, not less.
 
Joined
Aug 6, 2016
Messages
468
If your bare shaft and broadheads are hitting to the left that is a stiff tear. This will be a tail right tear through paper. So you would actually need more FOC in order to correct this, not less.
Correct
 
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