300 WSM Rifle Choices

[erle1139]

In the market for buying a new 300 WSM for lugging around the mountains elk hunting. I believe I have it narrowed down to Browning HC speed, Kimber Mountain Ascent, Christensen Arms Ridgeline, Fierce Fury. Want it under 7lbs and with a muzzle brake. ~$2k and under is pretty much my budget. I've read some pros/cons of each, such as not many after market parts for Browning (I'm not really a tinkerer anyway), thin barrels of Kimbers over heating quicker, Christensen Arms complaints about sloppy workmanship, I don't really know anything about Fierce.

 

[LightFoot]

Those are all solid choices in most instances. I would like to add one more to your list.... Savage 110 Ultralite.

The savage has an adjustable stock and trigger. There are reasonable aftermarket stocks available. I find the trigger to be very good and consistently group well under MOA with lots of ammo.

I have one in 6.5 PRC and convinced my buddy to get the same in 300 WSM. We are both super happy with them.

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[jofes]

Savage ultralight in 300 wsm. Shoots sub moa and with a Ross brake feels like a 243. Weighs around d 6.3 bare rifle.

 

[ndayton]

Another option is Tikka if you find one in stock

Tikka T3X Lite Roughtech Black/Tan Bolt Action Rifle - 300 WSM (Winchester Short Mag) - 24in

Tikka T3X Lite Roughtech Black/Tan Bolt Action Rifle - 300 WSM (Winchester Short Mag) - 24in - All the benefits and performance of a T3x Lite model combined with a Roughtech stock.

www.sportsmans.com

 

[journeyman713]

With 2k budget, the x-bolt pro is worth a look

 

[erle1139]

With 2k budget, the x-bolt pro is worth a look

I do like that pro tungsten...now to find one!

 

[JPeters218]

I had a hells canyon speed. Great gun, would shoot 1” groups at 300. The stock just didn’t fit me right.
I now have a savage ultralite, my only complaint so far is the action is not smooth. But I haven’t shot it yet, and I assume it’ll get better.
Of your choices I’d go with either the Browning or the fierce

 

[JeffRaines]

I’m not sure why Tikka isn’t on your list. With your budget it could go one of three ways:

1. Buy the tikka. Buy hells canyon magazine. Have barrel threaded and bolt stop shaved down. Have about 800-1000 left out of your 2k budget.

2. Buy the tikka. Buy hells canyon magazine. Have the barrel threaded and bolt stop shaved down. Buy an aftermarket stock of your choice. Have about 200-300 left.

3. Buy tikka. Buy hells canyon magazine. Replace barrel with proof. You’ll be right at budget once you buy a brake.

In all three scenarios I think you’ll end up with a better rifle than the others you mentioned, and likely have money left over.

I realize it’s not the sexiest option, but after owning nearly all of the rifles you mentioned(except fierce) I only have the tikka in 300wsm left.

 

[T28w]

Another option is Tikka if you find one in stock

Tikka T3X Lite Roughtech Black/Tan Bolt Action Rifle - 300 WSM (Winchester Short Mag) - 24in

Tikka T3X Lite Roughtech Black/Tan Bolt Action Rifle - 300 WSM (Winchester Short Mag) - 24in - All the benefits and performance of a T3x Lite model combined with a Roughtech stock.

www.sportsmans.com

How much diff is there going to be in the brake that comes on this tikka and a good aftermarket side baffle brake.

 

[Loper]

Buy the tikka. Buy hells canyon magazine. Have barrel threaded and bolt stop shaved down.

What is the benefit of shaving down the bolt stop? Is that to take advantage of loading longer bullets in the Hells Canyon magazine?

 

[JeffRaines]

What is the benefit of shaving down the bolt stop? Is that to take advantage of loading longer bullets in the Hells Canyon magazine?

Yes. The HC magazine requires it. I guess if you’re okay with factory loads/bullets you don’t need to do this step and can save yourself the money.

 

[JeffRaines]

How much diff is there going to be in the brake that comes on this tikka and a good aftermarket side baffle brake.

Depends on your expectations. I’ve found radial brakes work okay for just reducing recoil but in my experience they also make recoil kind of unpredictable - not in the sense of strength, but where the gun ends up afterwards.

Not to mention the dust kicked up while prone, that and the greater recoil reduction of a side baffle brake is why I wouldn’t waste time with a radial.

 

[762 ULTRAMAGA]

In the market for buying a new 300 WSM for lugging around the mountains elk hunting. I believe I have it narrowed down to Browning HC speed, Kimber Mountain Ascent, Christensen Arms Ridgeline, Fierce Fury. Want it under 7lbs and with a muzzle brake. ~$2k and under is pretty much my budget. I've read some pros/cons of each, such as not many after market parts for Browning (I'm not really a tinkerer anyway), thin barrels of Kimbers over heating quicker, Christensen Arms complaints about sloppy workmanship, I don't really know anything about Fierce.

Of the rifles you listed Fierce is going to be the highest quality by far, and actually has a .5 moa guarantee. With the others you're getting cheap factory components and there's a good possibility it won't be a shooter.
I don't think they have the 300 wsm listed but they do offer a 9 twist 24" barreled 300 PRC, that'd be a sweet setup if you're into LR shooting

 

[Loper]

Yes. The HC magazine requires it. I guess if you’re okay with factory loads/bullets you don’t need to do this step and can save yourself the money.

Got it. Is it possible to just swap out the bolt stop or does the magazine require shaving it?

 

[ndayton]

How much diff is there going to be in the brake that comes on this tikka and a good aftermarket side baffle brake.

I'm not sure, I own a tikka 300wsm without a muzzle brake but my guess is a aftermarket side brake would work much better.

 

[JeffRaines]

Got it. Is it possible to just swap out the bolt stop or does the magazine require shaving it?

You can swap for a long action stop but honestly shaving it down takes about 3 minutes on a grinder and there’s even a “line” on it that shows you where to shave it to. I’m a mechanic by trade and don’t intend on selling the rifle so I just shaved it down and saved the 30-40 bucks or whatever a bolt stop costs.

 

[Loper]

You can swap for a long action stop but honestly shaving it down takes about 3 minutes on a grinder and there’s even a “line” on it that shows you where to shave it to. I’m a mechanic by trade and don’t intend on selling the rifle so I just shaved it down and saved the 30-40 bucks or whatever a bolt stop costs.

Makes sense. Thanks for info!


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[Mountainman3]

I sold a tikka on 300wsm to buy a nosler custom. The nosler is far and away better craftsmanship but the tikka shot just as good. I didn’t really gain any accuracy from the Nosler M48.

For that budget you can close to custom work.

For what it’s worth I have the Kimber mountain accent in 280AI. It shoots really well for a thin profile barrel. As long as your not burning up the powder on the shooting range shooting string after string you’ll be ok.


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[bird35]

I know it is not on your list and others have already mentioned it but the Tikka t3x superlite is a nice gun. It is light weight and has a stainless steel fluted barrel. I have one in 300 WSM and it shoots great. I believe they are a Sportsmans Warehouse exclusive.

 

[Steelruger22]

I have an X Bolt Pro in 300 wsm and absolutely love it. Lightweight without being too light, smooth action and deadly accurate. Mine shoots 1.5" groups at 300 w/ my handloads. And she has never shot over moa with any factory ammunition. Only thing I have done to it was put in a lighter trigger spring from mcarbo to get the trigger down to 2.5#.

I also have a Kimber Montana. Great gun too and a bit lighter. I'd give the edge to the browning. In the end I don't think you can go wrong with either. There are a lot of good choices out there. Tikkas are great shooters but I sent both I owned down the road. The plastic stocks didn't jive with me and I absolutely hated the magazine design. Like I said, lots of good choices out there, put your hands on a few well know performers and let the rifle tell you which one is right for you.