7mm ammo advice

cody21peterson

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Hey guys I’m a fairly new rifle hunter. I just picked up a tikka t3x superlite 7mm rem mag. I know hardly anything about bullets and ballistics and I would like some help choosing the right ammo. My budget is pretty tight so the cheaper the better. I plan to hunt elk, mule deer, and black bear but elk is the main priority this year. I’d like to eventually ring steel out to 1000 yards but for hunting I’m guessing shots will be sub 500. Im getting the barrel threaded right now for a suppressor which I’m hoping will help with recoil. I understand grain weight and speed regarding archery but I have very little experience with rifles. After looking at some different options it seems like the 150-180 grains is a good hunting bullet for elk. Let’s hear your thoughts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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PredatorSlayer

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Anything in the 140-195 range will work well on elk deer and bears. High BC bullets become more important once you get out past 600 yards because of the challenges judging winds in the mountains in my experience.
 

Super tag

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a lot depends on the rifle, what is the twist rate, my 7mm doesn’t shoot bullets heavier than 168 gr. very well, it’s 1-9 twist so doesn’t stabilize heavier bullets quite as well, it will shoot them just not as accurate as lighter bullets, it loves the 168 gr VLD and 160 gr. Accubond. I’ve taken Elk, Deer just fine with these, the Berger VLD has been flawless In all situations.
 
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hereinaz

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The 168 Berger VLD or the Hornady 162 ELDX is what I would shoot out of a 7 rem mag or 280AI unless you have an 8 or 8.5 twist to stabilize the 180 VLD or ELDM.

You can easily ring steel at 1000 and kill out to 800 with the 168/162 as long as you have velocity to do it.
 

TN VOL

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I have the same rifle. I handload 175gr partitions, 160gr accubonds and tipped trophy bear claws, and 150gr ttsx. All shoot great. If your buying off the shelf ammo, it’s the cheapest part of your hunt. Buy cheap stuff for practice and spend whatever it takes for quality ammo for hunting.
 

jpmulk

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162 grain eldx has been awesome out of my 7mag t3x light tikka. Shoots accurately and drops animals well.
 

XLR

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Like stated above, check your twist rate and start there! 1:9 twist stick with the 162-168 range! Can go a little lighter but wouldn't go any heavier! Spending an extra 20-40 cents per round is going to be more beneficial in the long run than cutting corners and getting cheap ammo!
 

wind gypsy

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I'm pretty sure the tikkas are 9.5 twist so i'd keep it 168 and less.

I'm kind of surprised that people are saying 9 twist is insufficient for 180s though. I thought 9 twist used to be pretty standard for 284s shooting 180 bergers in the fclass world. Not that I wouldn't (and have) gone a little faster twist if intending to shoot 180+ bullets but I wouldn't avoid trying 175-180s with a 9 twist either.
 

amassi

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I'm pretty sure the tikkas are 9.5 twist so i'd keep it 168 and less.

I'm kind of surprised that people are saying 9 twist is insufficient for 180s though. I thought 9 twist used to be pretty standard for 284s shooting 180 bergers in the fclass world. Not that I wouldn't (and have) gone a little faster twist if intending to shoot 180+ bullets but I wouldn't avoid trying 175-180s with a 9 twist either.
Yep-Bunch of 180s will stabilize in a 1:9

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cody21peterson

cody21peterson

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I remember listening to a podcast a while back and they were debating regular bullets vs copper. Is copper a better option?


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Kurts86

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My 2 go to loads for factory 7mm Rem Mag rifles are Hornady Precision hunter 162 gr ELD-X and Barnes Vor-TX 150 gr TTSX.
 

Johnny Tyndall

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I remember listening to a podcast a while back and they were debating regular bullets vs copper. Is copper a better option?


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Lotta debate on this. I'm not speaking from experience, but can summarize the points. Some people like copper because they are worried about lead contamination of meat. Other people think that worry is overblown and not well supported. Some people like that copper stays together and penetrates deeply, other people point out that the wound channels are narrow and the kills may not be as emphatic as with lead-core, especially highly frangible lead core. Everyone agrees that copper does best at high impact speed; if impact speed is low there is a real risk of penciling and slow kills. If you handload, hammer bullets (frangible copper) seem to do the best. Myself, I stay away, but I'm a rookie.
 
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cody21peterson

cody21peterson

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Anyone had good luck with the Remington core lokt?

Also I had my barrel cut down from 24” to 21” and threaded for a 6 inch suppressor. I’m guessing I’m gonna lose some speed. Should I stay under 160 grains?


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kpk

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I shoot 162 ELD-X and Nosler Partitions 160gr. out of mine and they both shoot very well.

You might have to try whatever you can get your hands on......
 

Mr Drysdale

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I could not get Federals with 140 grain Accubonds to group in my Tikka T3SL 7RM but the Barnes 160 grain TTSX are sub MOA and I have taken game from 100-300 yards with them. All DRT.
 

billoo349

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Anyone had good luck with the Remington core lokt?

Also I had my barrel cut down from 24” to 21” and threaded for a 6 inch suppressor. I’m guessing I’m gonna lose some speed. Should I stay under 160 grains?


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I have used core lokt on four elk and two deer at distances up to 300 yards with 30-06 and 270. They work at killing game in my experience. Norma whitetail looks similar, it's cheaper and more available also and very accurate out of my 7mm rem mag t3x. If you plan to shoot longer distance Norma bondstrike is a more aerodynamic option and still fairly cheap compared to others. I haven't used it on game yet but plan to this fall on elk.

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billoo349

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I'll add that the core lokt will shed the jacket at close range. You'll find small pieces spread out in the meat at close range, like 75 yards or less. Maybe I shouldn't share this but Normashooting.com frequently has their ammo relativity cheap online. The fps difference between 24"-21" is going to be a non issue.

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