7mm Barrel Selection

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Dec 4, 2020
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Been lurking here a while but finally getting serious about putting together a custom/semi-custom rifle. Carbon barrels are all the rage right now and while I understand the advantages they do have, I'm curious for some experienced thoughts on the cost vs performance aspect. Round of choice will be the 7SS, looking at a 24" finished length, light weight being one of but not the primary factor. I will no doubt shoot it recreationally as well so no uber-thin pencil barrels. Unless my math is way off, it seems I can get something like a fluted #3 steel barrel that will weigh the same or less then a Proof for several hundred dollars cheaper. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

B23

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CF barrels is largely about aesthetics. I have a couple Proof CF barrels and I'd be lying if I didn't admit I only went with them because I like how a larger contour barrel looks, especially, if I'm screwing a can or brake on the end of it and a CF barrel of equal diameter to an all steel barrel will lighter but the equal diameter all steel barrel will definitely be stiffer.

Make sure you look at the actual specs of the barrel profile for the different barrel companies you are considering because the contour sizing isn't always the same for all companies. Not everyone's #3 is the exact same nor is their #4 and so on.

For an all around not real light but certainly not heavy barrel contour I'm partial to Hart fluted #4 and that is what is on my 7mm Blaser mag.
7Blaser.png
 

AirborneEScouter

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I have a proof sendero on my 7 remington mag and it is a laser beam. Have shot some quick strings and it has stayed plenty accurate even after having heated up some. But I also had the money to burn. Just personal preference but damn that barrel works well. I'm sure their sendero light is good too and of course there are other carbon barrel manufacturers to consider
 

brad407210

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I put together my first semi-custom this year using a Tikka action and a Lilja barrel chambered in 7mm rem mag. If you're doing a first time build I would probably save the money and go with a steel non-fluted barrel from any one of the reputable barrel makers. My plan was to learn about the process of building then shoot the barrel out of it practicing and refining my reloading process. I'd like to do a nicer 7mm build eventually with a carbon barrel, but I need to burn out a few more barrels before my skill set could outshoot a cheaper semi-custom setup. That being said I'm planning to build a 20" barreled 30-06 for whitetails in MN and WI not because I need it, just because they look cool and carbon is warmer to the touch sitting in a tree stand.
 

452b264

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If your going to backpack a #3 is perfect IMHO, bartlien 2b is the same size as everyone's #3. A fluted #4 is about the same weight as a #3 un-fluted but its a bit stiffer.
I use a #3 Brux un-fluted.
 
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Been lurking here a while but finally getting serious about putting together a custom/semi-custom rifle. Carbon barrels are all the rage right now and while I understand the advantages they do have, I'm curious for some experienced thoughts on the cost vs performance aspect. Round of choice will be the 7SS, looking at a 24" finished length, light weight being one of but not the primary factor. I will no doubt shoot it recreationally as well so no uber-thin pencil barrels. Unless my math is way off, it seems I can get something like a fluted #3 steel barrel that will weigh the same or less then a Proof for several hundred dollars cheaper. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I bought into the CF barrel hype and really found zero benefit over a steel.
I prefer a fluted #4 or #5, that'll put you around 3.5 lbs at 24".
Do you have an action already?
What made you decide to take the 7ss wildcat journey?
 

SDHNTR

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Want light but not too light for a packable hunting rifle? Go with a Bartlein 2b. Want a little more insurance and less picky about weight, but still not a total drag to carry? Go Bart 3 or another quality #4. My 7 mag wears a fluted Benchmark #4. 1/2 moa no problem and everything it gets pointed at just dies. Got another 6.5 prc build being spun up now with a Bart #3.
 

Totoro

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Carbon barrels have their place in application.

I used a 28" Proof on my 300PRC build for balance.

Like others have said, contours vary from one maker to another.

I would suggest using muzzle OD as a comparison between makers to get a better idea of what you want.
 
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I bought into the CF barrel hype and really found zero benefit over a steel.
I prefer a fluted #4 or #5, that'll put you around 3.5 lbs at 24".
Do you have an action already?
What made you decide to take the 7ss wildcat journey?

Agreed. I would much rather avoid carbon but it's the main solution to get you sufficient muzzle diameter without being a tank. The bores heat up faster than a steel barrel and you have potential for differing expansion of the bore diameter where the steel changes in thickness dramatically. That said, I ordered a bartlein carbon #4 yesterday..

Has anyone talked to barrel manufacturers about releasing steel contours that get bigger at the muzzle for muzzle threads?
 

30338

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8 twisted Bart 2b would be as heavy as I'd go. A lot of folks build heavier and then look to cut ounces afterwards. Never had an issue having Thunderbeast thread small diameter barrels for suppressor use.
 

hereinaz

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All the benefits are at the margins, any good barrel will shoot. With lighter steel contours, you run the chance of walking shots in a string. A fluted barrel is better in that sense than a solid barrel.

You do get a stiffness advantage with carbon over steel in same weight.

I like that the carbon barrel isn't as cold to the touch in winter.

My experience with Proof is that it cools faster and has no problem with long strings. Their wrap and resin are key for that.

The chamber and throat area are full steel in carbon fiber, so that heats the same as a full steel. Heat in the barrel itself isn't the problem, really. It is burning up the throat. Its not a meaningful difference. Barrels don't last longer either way. How you load and shoot it makes a bigger difference.

I run a 26" Proof with my 7ss. There were 4 chambers cut by the smith, and all 4 of the 7 ss are hammers in Proof barrels. 180 vld in the ADG brass with 60.5 of RL26 is nails. 6 of 7 animals were one and done. The exception, my elk was dead on its feet after the first shot, but I sent two more.
 
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The biggest benefit I see is that cold bore and subsequent shots are identical in my 2 carbon barrels, and there is no stringing. I have never had a thin steel barrel that could do that. You get bull barrel type stiffness without the weight penalty.
 
OP
J
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Thanks for all the thoughts gentlemen, it's greatly appreciated. From what I'm reading, it seems while not absolutely necessary, the carbon is well worth the extra few hundred dollars which amortized over the life of a hunting rig like I'm planning isn't really a huge deal. The more I read the more I like the idea of doing it right once and enjoying it a lot more for years to come.
 
OP
J
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Dec 4, 2020
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38
I bought into the CF barrel hype and really found zero benefit over a steel.
I prefer a fluted #4 or #5, that'll put you around 3.5 lbs at 24".
Do you have an action already?
What made you decide to take the 7ss wildcat journey?
That's the issue: by the time I get a quality #4 or 5 fluted, I'd be within about $200 of a carbon, be well over half a pound heavier, and still not as stiff. I don't mean to sound like I'm arguing with advice here, just trying to understand the thought process!
No action yet, keeping my eyes open and researching that side of it too.
I want to stay short action, I'll be hand-loading everything no matter what I get, all reports on the brass ADG is making for it are 100% positive, and it gives some room for running the real long pills in an internal box. I don't believe it's some magic sauce like some seem to, but for the intended application the parameters just simply fit better than the other available options.
 
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That's the issue: by the time I get a quality #4 or 5 fluted, I'd be within about $200 of a carbon, be well over half a pound heavier, and still not as stiff. I don't mean to sound like I'm arguing with advice here, just trying to understand the thought process!
No action yet, keeping my eyes open and researching that side of it too.
I want to stay short action, I'll be hand-loading everything no matter what I get, all reports on the brass ADG is making for it are 100% positive, and it gives some room for running the real long pills in an internal box. I don't believe it's some magic sauce like some seem to, but for the intended application the parameters just simply fit better than the other available options.
More like $300 more for CF, most makers charge $120 ish to add fluting so that'll put you around $450 for a high end blank.

A #4 is stiffer than a CF barrel, I saw where one reputable builder measured more deflection in a CF proof with weight hanging off the end than he got from a #3 contour steel barrel.
 
OP
J
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More like $300 more for CF, most makers charge $120 ish to add fluting so that'll put you around $450 for a high end blank.

A #4 is stiffer than a CF barrel, I saw where one reputable builder measured more deflection in a CF proof with weight hanging off the end than he got from a #3 contour steel barrel
Interesting, thanks! So I was kicking around with Pac-Nor's barrel weight calculator and with a 24" finish length their #3 sporter contour (.630ish muzzle diameter) fluted is essentially precisely the same weight as a Proof carbon of the same length (approx 3 pounds). All the rifles I currently shoot have much heavier barrels, and none of them fluted. Anyone have any real world reviews on a barrel with a similar profile? I'm not planning on shooting 50 round days with the thing but my shooting time tends to be limited and seeing friends constabtly have to wait for their thin barrels to cool has made me very leery of going too light.
 

wapitibob

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You can buy a Bartlein #4 carbon (.750) today for $700, another 200-300 to get it on an action. You can also get a 2B and cut it back to 24" (.630 dia) for $355. Both will weight the same, about 3.2#.

I'd go with a custom action. The problem with a rem action is nobody will single point the bolt raceway and the factory bolt will be .010" undersize unless you replace it. To make it right you're almost to a $900 custom action and it's still a reworked remington.
 
OP
J
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You can buy a Bartlein #4 carbon (.750) today for $700, another 200-300 to get it on an action. You can also get a 2B and cut it back to 24" (.630 dia) for $355. Both will weight the same, about 3.2#.

I'd go with a custom action. The problem with a rem action is nobody will single point the bolt raceway and the factory bolt will be .010" undersize unless you replace it. To make it right you're almost to a $900 custom action and it's still a reworked remington.
A custom action is the plan. It's just a matter of which. It's a rather dizzying mess of brand loyalty, advertising, and vague specifications. I just want something plain and round that is reasonably lightweight without any goofy tacticool embellishments, although a nicely fluted bolt does look sharp.
 
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A custom action is the plan. It's just a matter of which. It's a rather dizzying mess of brand loyalty, advertising, and vague specifications. I just want something plain and round that is reasonably lightweight without any goofy tacticool embellishments, although a nicely fluted bolt does look sharp.
If you want light weight get a defiance anTi for sure.
I recently built a 7wsm on the anTi long action with a 22" fluted #5 benchmark barrel.
It weighs 6.4lbs minus the suppressor and scope. Its insanely accurate, I've put 4 consecutive sub 2.5" groups up at 800 yards.
I'd look into the Bartlein 3b contour, sounds like it'd meet your needs perfect.
Here's the 7 wsm with yesterday's coyote
Edit:
If you really want cf you can get a proof prefit in 7 saum for the defiance action for $800.
it'll take a long time though
20201226_180138.jpg
 
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