7mm STW build in progress... Budget LR Hunting Rifle Phase I

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Range Report:

Well, considering it was pretty windy all day and the range was only open to 200 yards - I was fairly pleased with the baseline, out of the box results.

I shot about 20 rounds total and did a fairly thorough break-in of the barrel. That was tedious to say the least - all the more so doing it at a range with strict firing line control. None the less, I had fun and punched some holes.

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These were all shot with NoslerCustom 160 grain accubond - ballistic tips at around 3100 (according to the box). My chrono is dead and I need to pick up a new one or send mine back for repairs.

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These were shot with HSM ammo loaded with Berger 168 gr. VLD's

Again, I had a pretty stiff wind so I can't make much of the results other than they don't suck. I adjusted the zero to 0.9 moa high at 200 which should roughtly set zero for 250 yards according to Vortex's ballistic calculator.

My first impression of the Vortex scope is that it's a fantastic piece of glass. Having never used a scope with any more than 14X, I can say it was awesome having 24X to look through at the range. I could consistently see the superfine dot at the center of the reticle in the center of the 1/2" ish white dot at the center of the target off the bench. The MOA subtensions in the reticle made sighting and measuring groups a snap from the bench.

I don't think I fully appreciated the quality of the Vortex Glass and the high magnification until I set up my Swarovski 80mm Spotter to look at some 200 yard sight in shots. It's good stuff!

Coop
 
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Nice shooting Coop and glad you're liking the rifle!

If I were you, start shooting it and don't worry about cleaning it till you really see your groups open up. A lot of our rifles will really settle into their most accurate stages after 10-20 rounds down the tube on a clean barrel and will stay that way depending on caliber for anywhere from 30-100+ rounds. Mostly depends on quality of barrel and how much powder you're burning down the barrel relative to the bore diameter. For example, a 300 RUM is going to see accuracy diminished from powder fouling much quicker than a 300 win mag. Just a lot more powder being burnt. Oftentimes if you clean with a good carbon solvent at this time you'll drop your barrel back into it's most accurate stage of copper fouling. Most barrels enjoy a bit of copper in there... But every gun and barrel is different, but I'll just tell you that more barrels have diminished barrel life due to over cleaning than people realize.

Mike
 

wapitibob

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It took me quite a while to figure out that cleaning was opening up my groups a bunch. I used to clean after every range session. My factory STW takes 10+ shots to settle in after getting the copper out. Takes 3+ if I just run one patch of Butch's and a cpl dry patches.
 
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Thanks! I'm having fun... And thank you for the insight on cleaning vs. accuracy guys... That's not obvious to a rookie like me so it's sure good to have some experts here to lean on for the kind of knowledge that can otherwise only be learned through lots and lots of trial and error. I decided to do a typical break in process (with lots of cleaning), but with that tedious process over now I guess I'll wait for a nice day and just go enjoy the rifle and do some shooting to see if things settle in nicely. I may even take it wolf hunting this weekend if I can get out one more time to verify zero and shoot a group or two at longer range to check my drops.

By the way... on the subject of checking drops. I would assume you would leave the rifle at your zero and then measure the drop from the zero to the center of the group at some longer distance (say 500 yards) - then, I need to put that measured distance in the ballistic calculator and it will calculate muzzle velocity for me.

Or... alternatively I can manually tweak muzzle velocity in the ballistic calculator until the calculated drop matches the actual drop and I should have a pretty accurate table (for those conditions). I'll need to remember to write down temp/humidity etc...

Then I should be able to input my approximate hunting altitude and expected conditions and should be ready to hunt.


Coop
 

Matt Cashell

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That is some good shooting Darin!

I check my drops by dialing my calculated drop for a distance, shooting a two shot group (I know guys are going to say you need to do three or more, but two works for me), the group is usually pretty close elevation wise, and lets me know how far to adjust my drop. I like 400 yards for verifying initial dope. then I just shoot steel or rocks further out to verify drops at those ranges. MOST of the time, running my numbers to take into account this 400 yard adjustment gets my drops further out really close.

EDIT: This is for refining my BC, not finding MV. I use a chrony for MV. You can use the same method to compute muzzle velocity given an estimated BC though.
 
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Thanks! I'm having fun... And thank you for the insight on cleaning vs. accuracy guys... That's not obvious to a rookie like me so it's sure good to have some experts here to lean on for the kind of knowledge that can otherwise only be learned through lots and lots of trial and error. I decided to do a typical break in process (with lots of cleaning), but with that tedious process over now I guess I'll wait for a nice day and just go enjoy the rifle and do some shooting to see if things settle in nicely. I may even take it wolf hunting this weekend if I can get out one more time to verify zero and shoot a group or two at longer range to check my drops.

By the way... on the subject of checking drops. I would assume you would leave the rifle at your zero and then measure the drop from the zero to the center of the group at some longer distance (say 500 yards) - then, I need to put that measured distance in the ballistic calculator and it will calculate muzzle velocity for me.

Or... alternatively I can manually tweak muzzle velocity in the ballistic calculator until the calculated drop matches the actual drop and I should have a pretty accurate table (for those conditions). I'll need to remember to write down temp/humidity etc...

Then I should be able to input my approximate hunting altitude and expected conditions and should be ready to hunt.


Coop

Either of those methods will work for you for checking drops. You can check your dope out to 600 yards or so in nearly any conditions to calculate muzzle velocity. You'll hit a theoretical ballistic wall between 600-700 where the bullet starts to realize the environment it's traveling through is different. I just checked my dope and changing from 100* F to 10*F you'll only have a 2" difference in vertical adjustment with all other conditions being equal.

The two major environmental factors that affect vertical bullet flight is temperature and barometric pressure. If you have a decent GPS it should have a baro sensor on it to tell you what the pressure is at your location. Humidity changes from 0 to 100% affect my 280 ackley less than 1" at 1000 yards so I just set it to 50 in my ballistic app and call it good. I only ever change temperature and station pressure. Obviously wind and shot angle play a roll either but those are inherently dynamic environmental properties that change from one moment to the next. I believe Ryan sent my article to you didn't he Coop?

Mike
 
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I believe Ryan sent my article to you didn't he Coop?

Mike

Yes, and I've read it - very good stuff - informative and thorough - and something we need to work together on here pretty quick. It's a lot more than one article in my opinion. I need to take another good hard look and work with you on trying to break it up into bite-sized information pieces for Roksliders. It's actually one of my next projects.

I'll give you a call and we'll get busy on it Mike. Thanks for all the help!

Coop
 
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Well, I found a quick and dirty solution to my cheek weld issue... I feel a little guilty, but this fit the budget at only $16 - It's a "Comb Raising Kit" made by Beartooth that I picked up at Sportsmans WH. It's admittedly a crude, yet effective solution to the problem I had. It's a simple neoprene sleeve with several different thicknesses of high-density foam "shims". I used the 5/8-inch shim and now I can mount the rifle quickly and firmly and be looking right down the center of the scope. I may add a dab of silicone between the foam shim and my stock to ensure it does not shift as I hike.

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Not real sexy, but I don't plan on mounting the rifle - just the critters I kill with it.

Coop
 
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These were all shot with NoslerCustom 160 grain accubond - ballistic tips at around 3100 (according to the box). My chrono is dead and I need to pick up a new one or send mine back for repairs.

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I was kind of looking back at the targets I shot this weekend and noticed that after cleaning, it took one shot and then the next two would group well. The third started drifting off probably due to the barrel getting warm and walking...

Take a look at shots 6 & 7 and shots 9 & 10, then on the next target down shots 1 & 2.

I recall reading that sporter barrels "noodles" are really best tested in two shot groups - especially on a heavy magnum like the STW. So I decided to run out to the desert tonight (late) and try and check my zero and maybe check dope at longer range...
 
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Light was fading quick - I jogged out to 250 yards stuffed my stand in the ground, ran back to the pickup and set up prone in the bed. The wind laid down to pretty much dead calm. I didn't know if I would be able to see well enough but once again I was surprised at the performance of the Vortex Glass - even at 24X I had plenty of light to aim well and make a good shot. It was dark enough I saw plenty of flame thrower through the scope when I touched off the first one. I wanted to wait a while for the barrel to cool, but without any wind it probably wasn't going to cool fast enough to allow for more shooting with the light fading. I chambered another round after about 90 seconds and launched another 160 grainer downrange with a dramatic eruption of flame belching from the muzzle. I couldn't see the holes so I trotted on out to check the results.
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I kind of think the 1" red bullseyes are a little small for aiming at 250 yards (penny for comparison)
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Ummm... Beginner's luck???
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Center to center was about 0.350"

It was the only two shots I got to shoot tonight so I'm not counting my chickens before they hatch, but damn - I had a hard time wiping the grin off my face all the way home! I sure hope this wasn't a fluke - I've seen this before with archery stuff - get something new and it's the best shooting thing ever - then the honeymoon wears off. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. It ain't supposed to be this good, this easy, but I'll take it!

I'll report back after the next session. The only bad thing is - I know it can only go downhill from here!

Coop
 
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Great group Coop! I'm inclined to say that was a combination of an accurate rifle AND you being on your game! ;)

Even with a factory tube you should still get solid 3 shot groups without it walking on you with a 30+ seconds between each shot. Only one way to find out and thats to keep on shooting! ;)
 

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Good shooting there!!

I like your solution to the comb height. I'll have to keep that in mind the next time I run into that same issue.
 
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Good shooting there!!

I like your solution to the comb height. I'll have to keep that in mind the next time I run into that same issue.

Lot of guys will cut up old computer mouse pads then used a stock pack to cover 'em up. Little more DIY but a bit cheaper!
 
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