Adult dog training for waterfowl questions

heatstroke18

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I am wanting to train my dog to become my waterfowl hunting partner. He is a 16 month old yellow lab. He has already had general obedience training and is comfortable with an E Collar. Listens well, takes commands/marks well and is always looking to please. At this point I want to know what my next step/ first step is. Do I get a bumper and start playing some basic fetch making sure he returns to me and docent play keep away? Since he is older do I start some where else? I haven't taken him out to do any gun introduction yet, I want to do that over a long period of time to make sure he won't become skiddish because I rushed it. I have a pretty solid plan for this, using guns clubs, friends and blanks. Thats the one area I feel confident I can train him with my gun background.

Any recommendation, information or thought are appreciated. I know this will be a long journey, but its something we both can enjoy.
 
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heatstroke18

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Find a training program and stick with it. Mike lardy, Rick stawski, Evan graham. Understand why things are taught in the sequence they are to prevent issues later.

Will do. I noticed a lot of these programs are for "puppies" and not necessarily adult dogs. Im sure I can take the relevant lessons from the programs and glaze over some of the basic obedience training parts since he already has a good grip on that.
 
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Don’t glaze over the obedience, continually reinforce that no matter how old. Dogs can figure out on their own how to hunt and retrieve but they can’t teach themselves obedience. Like the other poster said pick a program and stick with it, there are many good ones.


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heatstroke18

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Don’t glaze over the obedience, continually reinforce that no matter how old. Dogs can figure out on their own how to hunt and retrieve but they can’t teach themselves obedience. Like the other poster said pick a program and stick with it, there are many good ones.


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I didn't mean to completely skip obedience, but use it more as a polish session to continually refine his already good behavior
 
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I would be leery of taking him around a gun club if you've not shot around him before... othe than that, sounds like you have a good trajectory going forward. I think starting a solid force fetch/conditioned retrieve program and sticking with it is a good next step. Ive had good luck with a program based off of Smartfetch/Smartwork. Have you played any retrieving 'games' with him at all? If not, maybe wait on FF - depends on the dog... also, some steadiness work would probably be something to focus on at this point.
You get out what you put in. Keep calm in the process and you will have a happy and reliable companion.
Not an 'expert' but happy to talks dogs - PM me if you have questions or want to BS about force fetch.
 

TX_Diver

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As mentioned above pick a program and stick with it. Even for an older dog.

Also see if there's an HRC (Hunting Retriever Club) near you. Most do training days, run hunt tests, etc. and are a great resource!! Memberships are <$100/year usually and get you access to all kinds of great info and help.

I started my dog at 3 and just worked through obedience, force fetch, basic marks, blinds, etc. She's a decent meat dog. If I worked her more she could be better. If you have a decent dog to start with then 99% of the results are going to be based on what you do/don't do.
 
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heatstroke18

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There is an HRC within an hour from me. Im going to get ahold of them and check it out. Thanks you TX_Diver
 

TX_Diver

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There is an HRC within an hour from me. Im going to get ahold of them and check it out. Thanks you TX_Diver

When I lived in TX the nearest one was an hour and half from me. I found it was worth the drive every month. Good luck and feel free to post any other questions. I'm no expert but was fortunate to live near(ish) a great HRC and make good friends with a great trainer who lived down the road.
 

Kenai_dtracker

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Don’t play keep away and don’t play tug of war. You’ll never get you duck back. Buy a half dozen bumpers and some duck scent, and start working on basic retrieves and then more advanced. There’s lots of videos online to show you how to do it and just take your time. Same with introducing him to gun fire, just go slow and don’t rush it. If he’s flinching at the shot, you are just too close or it’s too loud, so back away and start again. .22 blanks are cheap. Have a friend help you. With the dog by your side, throw a bumper high and away, have your friend shoot from 100 yards or so. When a dog is comfortable and relaxed, have your friend move closer and keep repeating the drill until You and your friend are side-by-side. It should be fun for the dog.

One thing not to forget, is getting your dog used to decoys and swimming around them with anchor lines. Dogs can freak out if this is new to them.
Good luck!
 

Oregon

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Gun shy is my biggest fear of every new pup I train.

From the first day I bring pup home I start slapping 2 chunks of 2x4 together. Older dog, start in a different room, then as time progresses same room. Most Labs are vacuum cleaners at meal time. After a few days of loud noise progress to above dog while feeding.
I also have a leather belt, when folded in half, I push apart then snap it tight. That even hurts my ears!
Good luck and training dogs is like playing with 4 year old kids. Attention span isn’t very long. I spend 20 minutes a day is all. Everyday though.
My latest pup struggled on running straight lines. I guarantee we spent 2 months straight.
When one of you 2 get frustrated. Quit. Start again tomorrow. They all get stuck on stupid occasionally
 

TX_Diver

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In regards to the above, if you're getting stuck on something don't be afraid to back up a step. Getting stuck on stupid is a good way of putting it and will happen.

If the dog is having trouble with something I prefer to simplify it rather than just quitting that way the dog ends on a high note/wanting more still. If a blind is to hard, make it shorter/simpler, then wrap up for the day. If a long mark is giving the dog trouble, set it up again and run it shorter, or move closer and re-send the dog.
 
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heatstroke18

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That makes sense. I need to start getting him in the yard and tossing a bumper around and having him bring it back and not try and play keep away. He doesn’t have a ton of playing fetch in his background so hopefully there aren’t any bad habits to break. Starting after the New Years, I’ll update if I have any questions I can’t figure out or finds good resource
 
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Find a training program and stick with it. Mike lardy, Rick stawski, Evan graham. Understand why things are taught in the sequence they are to prevent issues later.

This +1 so you have a clear understanding of a trained duck dog.

If you're serious, start studying the concepts of force fetch (asap) and steadiness. Can do it yourself or hire a pro. Get it over with soon (clock is ticking). Force and obedience are the basis for handling, blind retrieves, blind & boat manners... If the dog has some fire and smarts, force retrieve training is a breeze.

Decide which of the 3 buds you want to be: 1. The guy everyone wants to hunt with (class dog). 2. The guy no one wants to hunt with (dog and owner don't get it). 3. A guest (suck it up and leave the dog at home).

Plenty of great trainer and DIY content to look at nowadays.

Hope you end up with a super dog!
 

JBrew

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Lots of good advice on this one. One of the best trainers I ever knew, wouldn't start a dog until it was 2yr old. Stawski has, IMO, the easiest program to follow, If you go that route. One thing I haven't seen anyone mention that I'll throw in is:....I'd make sure your dog has prey drive before trying to make a dedicate duck dog out of him/her. Good luck!
 

WCB

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Depends on what you want out of the dog. You DO NOT have to go full field trial training regiment. If your dog is obedient 1st your honestly 80% there.

Getting the dog used to gun shots may take 1 day to figure out he doesn't care or a bit more. We simply play with them in the yard or in a field and have someone shoot blanks a ways away. usually the first few obviously they are curious but after a half dozen or so the dogs just ignore it. Then we move closer and closer etc. eventually introduce a bumper or something to relate the shots to. Our last two dogs could care less after the first gun shot.

Retrieving is the other 20%. Most dogs have a desire to retrieve (hunting breeds). just going to a lake or in the yard for basic back and forth retrieving is step #1. Introduction to birds is done in many ways and again it may take 1 day for you to figure out if your dog likes birds or not. IMO NOTHING beats actual hunting a dog and getting actual birds in their mouths once the basic obedience and basic retrieving training is done. I have seen a lot of dogs ruined or fall short in hunting situations due to the focus being on training and not hunting the dog because the owner doesn't think the dog is ready or the dog turned merely into a trained trial dog.

My #1 advice is have a plan and a desired outcome. However, do not get stuck on a schedule either way. Some dogs take longer and some dogs get it almost instantly. Do not train the dogs natural talent/desire out of it because you are following a program, or because xyz trainer says the "next step" HAS to be xyz. Even the best trainers deviate from plans...all training regiments are simply guidelines.

Some of the best dogs I have hunted over for waterfowl/upland have had very basic training. Obedience, basic retrieving to hand. I have hunted over trial champions/general trial dogs with a ton more training that were maybe "ok" real world hunting dogs. The difference has almost always been actual field experience with real birds in real situations where the focus was not solely on that dog.
 

hartigjosh

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This is how I taught my dog to be ok around gun noise... I went out to the local skeet range. (not rifle bc thats just too invasive/loud)
I parked in the lot and with my dog in the backseat I gave her a bowl of food with a small scoop. As she began to eat I rolled down the windows. After she finished I let her out the truck and put the bowl with another small scoop outside.
The whole time the dog was focused on food and not the gun shot noise around her. After that scoop was finished I did obedience drills walking closer to the range and gave her treats (1 pebble of food) for every command she did. Eventually I got to the range and sat down with her and praised her and observed a group shooting.
After awhile I talked to the guys shooting and asked if they mind I bring my dog up to the line while they shoot. The dog was so focused on me and the potential for food she could care less they were shooting all around her. I worked on more obedience and continued to expose her to gun shot and then went home and never had to mess with it again. I now can take her to the rifle range with me and let my .300 win mag sing and she doesn't flinch
 

Watrdawg

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I've been working with retrievers for at least the last 15 years. My current dog is a AKC Master hunter and and we also run field trials. The best advice I've read so far is to pick a retrieving program and then stick with it along with getting involved in a HRC club or a AKC retriever club. Go to various hunt tests and see how the different levels of dogs perform. Don't worry about your dogs age. I start my pups with obedience about a week after I bring them home and keep working OB in one way or another all the time. Even now with an 8yr old dog I do OB. I have him sit while I prepare his food and when I place his bowl down I release him to eat. That's just an example of OB. Graham and Stawski are good programs to follow and there are others out there also. Getting involved with a training group from a club close by will really help out. Your dog will see a lot of different setups and you will learn a lot just by watching others handle their dogs and asking questions. Throwing bumpers, shooting live ducks and throwing dead ducks for others will also let you see what the other dogs are doing during retrieves and how they are succeeding and working out issues. Your dog will also get to make those retrieves also over time. If you go to hunt test and even volunteer to work them you will have a blast and learn a ton.
 

Okhotnik

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Good suggestions

I would work on prey drive too and pick up some pigeons, clip their wings let your dog go after them. I think the prey is very important for a hunting dog.


I start with a pellet gun to introduce to firearms. Pump up a few times and shoot empty at least 20 yards from dog and use food rewards after shooting then work up to a 22 blank. Personally would never take a dog to a gun range even after conditioned.
 
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There is an HRC within an hour from me. Im going to get ahold of them and check it out. Thanks you TX_Diver
Excellent!
I've been training my own retrievers since the 1980s.
The best trainers I know have a gift of seeing things from the dog's perspective.

For example,
A duck hunter has his retriever out for his first hunt.
To train the dog, he shoots a bufflehead swimming in the decoys for a nice easy 30 yard retrieve. The human thinks this was great...a perfect first retrieve!

The dog thinks hey I get to retrieve any and every swimming duck.
Result is a whining or barking dog whenever he sees a coot swimming 100 yards outside the dekes.
 
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