Advice on setup for a rookie....

Remhunter

FNG
Joined
May 12, 2021
Messages
81
I've been archery hunting my whole life but as of recently have a bug up my butt to get into trad. Any specific advice or brand of bows and other gear to get started. I've been doing quite a bit of research, but thought I'd ask what other people are using or advise.
 

Kentucky

WKR
Joined
Dec 15, 2019
Messages
604
You will get lots of guys steering you to a Samick sage.. and there is absolutely nothing wrong with that.

I prefer guys buy high dollar stuff the First go around, that way the classifieds have good stuff for cheap!😂

IMO, I’d get a (depending of DL) a17”/19” riser, market is flooded with used hoyt satoris. (Thank you snyderwith changeable grips, cut way past center for lots of adjustment. And a set of Blackmax TT2.0 in 40#… unless you 28+ DL then I’d go 35#…those limbs are best bang for buck.. 150$ and within 15 FPS of 600-700$ limbs.

modest set of arrows..built with a 200g head, full length 400s for 40# bow with 200g points should get you close (on a metal riser that’s cut 3/8” past center). If your riser is cut to center, you’ll prolly need 500s.

im I don’t have any bows… and 400$ To purchase the only bow I could ever shoot again.. used DAS riser, blackmax2.0 limbs, beman centershots(they don’t make anymore, awesome are half price of anything comparable) or Black eagles..
 

arock

Lil-Rokslider
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Colorado
I've got some 36lbs (on a 19 inch riser) Galazy Silver limbs I'd sell you for $50 plus shipping. They're in decent shape, pretty quick if you get the tune right but they do stack a little bit. For some starter limbs they are perfect.
 

qwerksc

WKR
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Jan 11, 2017
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California
I’d say ILF 19”, Tradtech black max 2.0. If it were me, used Tradtech titan 3, springy rest, shoot everyday. sweet set up $400 to $450 yer in.
Work your way to the dream limbs. Keep yer eyes open on archerytalk, lots of stuff for sale, check the “fita” section classified.
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
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Missouri
I took up shooting a recurve this spring after I drew a tag for a managed whitetail hunt that requires traditional archery equipment. I bought a used Galaxy (formerly Samick) Sage with 45# limbs for $100 and picked up a second set of lighter limbs (35#) to start with. I'll be hunting with the 45# Sage this fall, and If I decide to continue shooting traditional, I'll probably sell the Sage and upgrade to a nicer bow next year.

Whatever bow you choose, I would recommend starting with light limbs to avoid developing bad habits from being over-bowed. I've shot a 70# compound for years and was surprised at how difficult it was to draw a 35# recurve...only half the peak weight but 2.5 times greater holding weight.
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2015
Messages
374
Another option would be to talk to people at the local archery shops. Most trad guys/gals have multiple bows and are willing to let you shoot them, trade for some and buy some. The. You could possibly see what you like or what fits you best before buying.
 

Sapcut

WKR
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If you want to shoot a light weight trad bow, buy a light weight trad bow and shoot it. If you want to be able to shoot a heavier weight probably like you do with a compound.....I suggest getting the heavier bow you want to shoot and pull it, draw it, pull it, draw it over and over to increase strength in your "bow drawing" muscles. Then you will rather quickly get good form to hunt, kill and recover with the heavier bow. Result being the ability and proficiency to hunt and kill with a heavy trad bow.

If you go with a light weight bow that is easy to draw with the intentions of moving up in wieght, it is unlikely it will happen. The easy drawing bows will not increase muscle strentgh and you will very likely stay in the light weight bow stage forever like so many others do. If you look around the trad world, you will notice most of the tradbow hunters say start with a light weight bow to get good form and eventually move up in weight. That advice never allows for good form with the heavier bow, only good form with the lighter bow. The same guys with that advice are still shooting their 41.5# bows. So you do have a choice and there is a way to do both.
 
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Rob5589

WKR
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Sep 6, 2014
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If you want to shoot a light weight trad bow, buy a light weight trad bow and shoot it. If you want to be able to shoot a heavier weight probably like you do with a compound.....I suggest getting the heavier bow you want to shoot and pull it, draw it, pull it, draw it over and over to increase strength in your "bow drawing" muscles. Then you will rather quickly get good form to hunt, kill and recover with the heavier bow. Result being the ability and proficiency to hunt and kill with a heavy trad bow.

If you go with a light weight bow that is easy to draw with the intentions of moving up in wieght, it is unlikely it will happen. The easy drawing bows will not increase muscle strentgh and you will very likely stay in the light weight bow stage forever like so many others do. If you look around the trad world, you will notice most of the tradbow hunters say start with a light weight bow to get good form and eventually move up in weight. That advice never allows for good form with the heavier bow, only good form with the lighter bow. The same guys with that advice are still shooting their 41.5# bows. So you do have a choice and there is a way to do both.
So your suggestion is; want to hunt with 55 lbs, just buy a 55 lb bow and work into it? Seems contrary to everything I've been finding.
 

Foggy Mountain

Lil-Rokslider
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So your suggestion is; want to hunt with 55 lbs, just buy a 55 lb bow and work into it? Seems contrary to everything I've been finding.
I’m not sure what his intention is but def don’t do that. As I keep saying and always say, start w a string bow. I’d you’re not familiar let me know. Than light enough bow to perform ALL your steps. Than I’d advise trading up. Maybe just 2-3lbs. Shoot a little less than you were until that small increase makes you comfortable. Once it’s old news you have the choice of moving up again but do it slowly large increases will kill your form. You’ll def loose the back tension. May not make full draw which kills your sight picture, (another issue) and leads to snap shooting. How many snap shoot don’t throw their hand wild? Not saying you’d have to but it just seems many do.
Be advised you can shoot improperly, if you’re 100% consistent about it you can achieve accuracy but you’d be making things harder by not keeping good form. Not to mention all sorts of issues like needing an arm guard.
 

Kentucky

WKR
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Messages
604
So your suggestion is; want to hunt with 55 lbs, just buy a 55 lb bow and work into it? Seems contrary to everything I've been finding.
IMO that is not the best advice… that may apply to a small percentage of people..

However I do think that 35# is too light, for any adult that has been shooting 70# compound, and on the tools for their career, starting with 40-45# isn’t non realistic….55# is a stretch.
 

Sapcut

WKR
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So your suggestion is; want to hunt with 55 lbs, just buy a 55 lb bow and work into it? Seems contrary to everything I've been finding.
Yes, that is correct. In the exact way I described above. Also, I am not saying get a heavier 55# bow and immediately expect to shoot it perfectly with great form. The only thing keeping someone from shootinga 55# bow with good form like they do a 35# bow is bow drawing strength. The only way to get strength is draw the bow over an over. You will be surprised at how quick you can gain strength and then the form will come. Otherwise, you will stay at the light bow forever like I mentioned and like most other guys have done.

Some here are implying to not draw a heavy bow at all if it isn't with perfect form the first time. Totally irrelevant and ridiculous.

IF your goal is to hunt with a heavy bow you need to gain the strength, first, to use the heavy bow. Shooting light weight easy bows will not increase your strength to shoot the heavy bow. In order to gain or just maintain strength in any fashion, you must engage in some sort of resistance training. If you don't, you will certainly loose muscle. No way around it. That is exactly why a lot of injuries occur. Strength loss due to no resistance training. Again, notice the guys that never move up to the heavy bows....because the light bows do not strengthen muscles in order to draw a heavy bow. You must draw the heavy bow in order to then shoot it with good form.

My experience has been.....I shot a 45# bow for several years because that was the only bow I had around to borrow. Then I got a 70# Bear recurve that I could barely draw to 28 inches. So what. Big deal. In a matter of a few months I was shooting very well and all day at 3D tournaments. Simply from just drawing the bow over and over every time I walked into my room. Never had to buy different bows or limbs in 1.5# increments as to prevent any "don't over do it' injury.

Now every year for the past 30 years, with the Bear and a Black Widow PSAX, I have shot 70-73#s with ease. No bragging or macho man ego needed like others like to accuse. It is simply from exercising bow drawing muscles from drawing the bow. That's it. And the only reason any other guy can't do it is because they don't want to and would rather have it real easy with no muscle aches and muscle resistance of any kind. Then they suggest to beginners you shouldn't do it either. I am just suggesting you can do it quickly if you so desire and if you don't mind exercising.

And if you're goal is to shoot a lighter weight bow you can do that as well. There are plenty to choose from.
 

arock

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If you want to shoot consistently well, you should start with a weight that you can pull back to execute a good shot. Could be 25lbs could be 35lbs could be 50lbs. Most people should start lighter because the muscles in your back are infrequently used.

For traditional archery - assuming you're following the shot sequence used and taught by USA Archery then working your way up and focusing on shot execution (rather than draw weight) is the thing to do. If you want to blow out your shoulder, then pull 70lbs and grip it and rip it.

In terms of building strength if your goal was to bench press 300lbs you certainly wouldn't start with 300lbs. That would be foolish. Same with drawing a bow. If you want to pull a heavier bow, similar to working up to a weight at the gym, you need good repetitions at weight that you can lift and control first.
 

Foggy Mountain

Lil-Rokslider
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In terms of building strength if your goal was to bench press 300lbs you certainly wouldn't start with 300lbs. That would be foolish. Same with drawing a bow. If you want to pull a heavier bow, similar to working up to a weight at the gym, you need good repetitions at weight that you can lift and control first.
Everything said by this man made sense but I only quoted part because imo that needs to sink in.
Seems at least one other guy needs to digest that as well. Good advice arock
 

Sapcut

WKR
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In terms of building strength if your goal was to bench press 300lbs you certainly wouldn't start with 300lbs. That would be foolish. Same with drawing a bow. If you want to pull a heavier bow, similar to working up to a weight at the gym, you need good repetitions at weight that you can lift and control first.
Not quite the same. You can't short press 300#s and live thru it. You can easily get the "70@28" bow and draw it as far as you can to exercise your drawing muscles... to perhaps the 50-55# draw length. That is a very quick, easy, safe and efficient way to reach your goal of properly shooting a heavier bow.

How ironic.....I am suggesting the best way to do it because I have done it. I gave my experience on how to be able to safely and very affectively shoot a heavy trad bow..... with 30 years later of more strength and healthier shoulders to boot.

Since you guys have your bow weight increase method down pat, tell us all how you guys have moved up from 25-30#s to your 70-75# trad bows. Tell us about your actual experience of how you moved up in bow weight to that heavy injury causing bow you warn about because surely you have or you wouldn't be telling us how. We'll wait.
 
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Foggy Mountain

Lil-Rokslider
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Not quite the same. You can't short press 300#s and live thru it. You can easily get the "70@28" bow and draw it as far as you can to exercise your drawing muscles... to perhaps the 50-55# draw length. That is a very quick, easy, safe and efficient way to reach your goal of properly shooting a heavier bow.

How ironic.....I am suggesting the best way to do it because I have done it. I gave my experience on how to be able to safely and very affectively shoot a heavy trad bow..... with 30 years later of more strength and healthier shoulders to boot.

Since you guys have your bow weight increase method down pat, tell us all how you guys have moved up from 25-30#s to your 70-75# trad bows. Tell us about your actual experience of how you moved up in bow weight to that heavy injury causing bow you warn about because surely you have or you wouldn't be telling us how. We'll wait.
Sap if you yourself have done it that’s 1 person not real extensive experience, we also don’t know how your form actually is.
Ive explained before as others have how to properly go up in weight. Small increments using proper technique and form. I personally would advise guy get used bows initially and trade out and up a few pounds at a time and only after a comfort level is gained.
I’d also add not all are gonna get to higher weights, they just can’t do that as they aren’t built that way.
Ive shot bows since 1970 so you’d think I’d be past having yo go up weight. As a kid I shot a 75lb recurve. Anyhow 4 years ago I had a brain tumor. Had to learn everything over again. Was shooting 64lb bows.
After I couldn’t pull anything back so I bought a 42 pound psa. Shot that til I mastered it. Got a 45lb whip, mastered that, 47lb fatal styk, mastered that, 52lb primal styk, 57lb primal styk and now can shoot my heavier bows. I’m 54 and still shoot a 64lb psa relatively often.
The op could get a takedown and swap limbs as well instead of trading whole bows.
Being certified a couple formats this slight going up in manageable weight has proven easily successful both by myself and through thousands of others I’ve taught.
I will add there’s nothing safe or efficient about what you’re advising.
 

Sapcut

WKR
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Thanks for your response. Glad you are able to continue shooting your bow regardless of weight.

However,I am also 54 never owned a compound bow and, like I mentioned, shooting pretty decent weight the last 30 years. Also killing a few animals with it. . I only needed one bow to get to the 70 pound mark in a very short period of time.

it is efficient, safe and the best method in my opinion…. unless…the person does not like to feel muscle resistance from drawing a bow, wants to spend much more money than needed on several different bows and/or limbs and is convinced by others that perfect form with the 25# bow is really important when the heavier bow (your goal) is what really matters.

The newbies need to know it really isn’t that complicated to shoot a trad bow at your desired weight.
 

Foggy Mountain

Lil-Rokslider
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Sap understand if you’re 54 and you’re at it 30 years you may have been in better physical shape than some, especially at that age. At 23 I was shooting 75 but today I’d not even attempt it, sometimes I wonder if I should even shoot 60s. Now another point and you can believe it or not, I powerlifted a lot as a kid, still lift today, I was benching 405 at 160lbs, the muscle was def developed more than some back than, actually better than most but this is not to blow smoke it’s to qualify. Would the avg person even if they wanted to be able to work into those weights? Maybe some yes, many def not.
Asking someone especially if they have any age on them to just try something hard isn’t smart. I’ll also say if someone were to try your method what’s the chance they’d stick with it? Many won’t even cut their own grass or do their brakes. Physical exertion is not in their want to do list.
It’s common knowledge to start small and easy. Even young folks are pretty weak for the most part. I teach every Sat in the summer plus more and before they even draw a bow back they’re asking for something lighter and that’s physical weight just holding at predraw.
Im also, to be clear not discounting your experience, I’m just bringing the point it’s not extremely extensive. To be honest I wish all guys would qualify the way you did. A few instances means nothing, it’s repetitive results.

Now the insistence you don’t need perfect form is correct. Anything if done exactly the same yields the same results. That can lead to accuracy. A slight deviation now can be a problem. A simple short draw can change cast, sight picture, 1/4” off face on an anchor could throw shots sideways.plucking a string can be completely inconsistent. Throwing a hand out or dropping an arm, collapsing, etc. Not having proper form means you may be using muscle instead of bone. Muscle gets tired. Chances of consistency about near zero. Form can prevent problems before they start. It’s also the very easiest way to be consistent. Why complicate things as you, I and many instructors did? We know better now, we gotta teach better. I always say, Uncle Joe was no archery instructor yet he taught many of us. He wasn’t correct, God bless him for trying but we need to do better. For many the interest doesn’t burn as deep as it does in others initially we can’t make things hard and there’s no reason for it. Hope that made sense.
 

Sapcut

WKR
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Physical exertion is not in their want to do list.
That is exactly the problem on infinite number of levels. So then compromise and delusion sets in. And here we are....grown men hunting with 35# bows because they can shoot with ease all day at 3D shoot and they believe the myth that they may shatter their rotator cuff if they draw a bow that reminds them they actually do have at least a little muscle left. Muscle tissue and strength never is constant. It is always increasing or decreasing based on resistance and then diet.

I have certainly never been a power lifter but at a measely 5'11 205 college athlete, I am very familiar with physical health, nutrition and strength. I am convinced that the reason a heavy 70+# bow is not too difficult for me to shoot and kill with is that I never stopped drawing the heavy weight. And I feel sure anyone else could be in the exact same situation if they did the same thing rather than be afraid of simple exercise and muscle resistance. But they are afraid discomfort and inconvenience so they justify their lighter bows and arrows.
 
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