Any Mechanics? 2001 Tundra Brake Issues

tlake

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I can't speak to why you don't have shaking in the streering wheel. But if it turns out to be the front disc's Tundra's had two sizes of calipers. One takes a 4.7" pad and the other takes a 5.3 in pad. Mind had the smaller pads and the rotors kept warping. (it caused the steering wheel to shake.) I upgraded to the larger caliper and pads and it seems to be better. Also I buy from Toyoya. I am going to take a wild guess if you cant find any other issues and say check your drive line and universal joints.
 
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ODB

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I have A 2002 and they had a known issue with rear drums warping although mine never have. I did have an issue with the front rotors warping, from what I understand they were undersized originally and overheated. Toyota replaced my whole front brakes at 37k miles. It’s been a great truck - 217K miles. Just put second timing belt, water pump and serpentine belt on it. Crossing my fingers it hits 300k ++++++
 

ODB

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I can't speak to why you don't have shaking in the streering wheel. But if it turns out to be the front disc's Tundra's had two sizes of calipers. One takes a 4.7" pad and the other takes a 5.3 in pad. Mind had the smaller pads and the rotors kept warping. (it caused the steering wheel to shake.) I upgraded to the larger caliper and pads and it seems to be better. Also I buy from Toyoya. I am going to take a wild guess if you cant find any other issues and say check your drive line and universal joints.
you and I had the same issue - thanks for clarifying the pad size
 

Randle

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Most likely the rear drums. Take it out on a non busy road and stop from about 25 or 30 mph slowly and steadily applying the park brake while holding the release handle so they donth lock up. That means either the button on the lever is being pushed or you are pulling the park brake release handle . You want to over ride the locking mechanism while applying the park brake. That should give you the answer if its rear for sure.
 

ODB

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Most likely the rear drums. Take it out on a non busy road and stop from about 25 or 30 mph slowly and steadily applying the park brake while holding the release handle so they donth lock up. That means either the button on the lever is being pushed or you are pulling the park brake release handle . You want to over ride the locking mechanism while applying the park brake. That should give you the answer if its rear for sure.
can’t do that on these, the parking brake is push on - push off
 
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CorbLand

CorbLand

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I can't speak to why you don't have shaking in the streering wheel. But if it turns out to be the front disc's Tundra's had two sizes of calipers. One takes a 4.7" pad and the other takes a 5.3 in pad. Mind had the smaller pads and the rotors kept warping. (it caused the steering wheel to shake.) I upgraded to the larger caliper and pads and it seems to be better. Also I buy from Toyoya. I am going to take a wild guess if you cant find any other issues and say check your drive line and universal joints.
Upgraded to the bigger calipers when I replaced them a year ago.


It’s definitely coming from the back. You can feel it start hopping in the backend. I will try drums or I am just going to suck it up and pay someone to fix it that actually knows what they are doing. I haven’t decided yet.


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CorbLand

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I am going to try playing with the proportioning valve and adjusting a few things. If that doesn't fix it I will order drums. Just got to find the time to get out to my buddies shop.
 

Iron pig

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Question, why would you play with the proportioning valve/adjust anything?

Start with areas that wear out, like drums, discs, rotors, etc. don’t adjust/dig around in something that doesn’t wear out, potentially unsafe.


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Desk Jockey

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Not sure if this applies if you swapped calipers. I had a vibration issue on my last tundra. It turned out some of the caliper pins were frozen causing uneven pressure. New calipers took care of it.
 

Brendan

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I'm with @Iron pig. Don't start playing with random stuff because it's easier. Proportioning Valves won't cause vibration, they simply divide brake pressure between front and rear. Probably Drum or Rotor. Maybe but less likely Calipers, shoes, pads, wheel bearing going out - something like that.

Brake work is actually pretty easy, I had one car I could do a full swap of all 4 rotors and pads in about 45 minutes once I got it down, but the time is in getting the car up off the ground and the wheel(s) off. Good jack, stands, and an electric impact or air tools help.
 

camping1601

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I am going to try playing with the proportioning valve and adjusting a few things. If that doesn't fix it I will order drums. Just got to find the time to get out to my buddies shop.
Your going about wrong with that line of thinking. Messing with that valve isn't gonna fix it and you can mess things up and cause safety issues. Rotors or drums for starters an do make sure all movable parts are free. You can fix the problem with new parts only to have it happen again if thing are getting uneven pressure and or contact.
 

camping1601

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Not sure if this applies if you swapped calipers. I had a vibration issue on my last tundra. It turned out some of the caliper pins were frozen causing uneven pressure. New calipers took care of it.
I've seen countless brake problems caused by frozen or stiff hardware.
Modern high quality pads come with new hardware and grease for a reason.
 

ben47

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Sounds like a brake drum/rotor issue and I would do that first, but while your at it take a look at your front suspension components. Check for play in tie rod ends and ball joints
 
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CorbLand

CorbLand

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Id like to see how you intend on adjusting a factory proportioning valve.
You can’t adjust the valve specifically but you can make sure that it’s compensating for the weight in your bed correctly. If I am not mistaken it’s a couple nuts and bolt to do it. All I am going to is make sure that it is working correctly.


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GotDraw?

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@CorbLand

If your brake hoses are original, it is possible that you have a partially collapsed brake hose on one or more wheels. When this happens, you pressurize the hydraulic line by stepping on the pedal but when you let off the pedal the hose liner prevents that line from fully depressurizing. Then that caliper or brake cylinder will not release fully and the pads/shoes will drag and overheat/warp the respective rotor/drum. Even new rotors/drums can be quickly ruined/warped due to dragging brake(s) overheating.

Bad brake hoses are not obvious to the eye and often look just fine from the outside. They are not expensive and are worth replacing once a vehicle is 10+ yrs or older. This will require you bleed the system, but it is well worth it.

Definitely consider checking for dragging brakes, drive the truck around and hit the brakes a couple times. Then park the truck on level ground and chock the back wheels. Put a floor jack under a front wheel, jack that wheel and hand spin it. You'll know if a brake is dragging if the wheel won't spin or is hard to spin. On the back end, chock the front wheels, truck in neutral/out of gear, jack the differential just enough to get the wheels off the ground and check both of those wheels.

My money is on a warped rotor or drum... question is why that happened? Consider the above.

JL
 
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