Arca Swiss plate + Tikka stock

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Has anyone mounted an arca quick connect plate to a rifle stock?

Thinking two 1/4-20 tee nuts in from the top and sitting flush with the bottom of the forestock. Then I could just pop one of these on and it would then mount to my tripod.

Not looking for the most stable platform. But a light, quick easy way to make my tripod more versatile.

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Salmon River Solutions

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Has anyone mounted an arca quick connect plate to a rifle stock?

Thinking two 1/4-20 tee nuts in from the top and sitting flush with the bottom of the forestock. Then I could just pop one of these on and it would then mount to my tripod.

Not looking for the most stable platform. But a light, quick easy way to make my tripod more versatile.

Sent from my F1 using Tapatalk


That is what I originally did a year and a half ago.

Then I machined my own one because I thought it stuck out too far and looked like crap. Now a couple more revisions later I think I have a pretty good product! I have the arca mini (1.7” OAL) and the 4” arca rail. I also make an arca +pic rail combo.

Shoot me a message if you would like some more info. 9D1B6E7E-6FE0-4CAC-A8B5-DFE9167BC3DC.jpegEFE8CFB5-9285-4219-A901-BFD6B9C38047.jpeg
 

Salmon River Solutions

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The area 419 ones work well. They have a little less mounting surface than mine, unless your running there head that allows you to utilize the serrations. You also cant use them if you have a tripod that has a slide button "plunger" that sticks up above the bottom surface. Mine are pocketed to allow for the plunger, and the plunger will retain the rail if it gets loose.
 

Lawnboi

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Area 419 4.25” arca plate weighs 1.5 oz, costs ~$45 including hardware, is low profile, and takes a couple minutes to install.

Mount the plate close to your receiver for better balance of rifle and positive control of tripod head & rifle.

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That area 419 short rail looks like a great way to get really close to the bottom metal without having to put a hole too close to your recoil lug.

I use a picatinny section on my narrower stocks, but if I had the space I’d throw an arca on. That area 419 looks good. Might pick one up to replace the picatinny on my eh1.

On a side note, sad news mcmillan will no longer put a separate section of pic rail on their stocks near the bottom metal, don’t know why. The one they did for me is perfect.
 

Lawnboi

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I 180’d the plate to get closer to the receiver. A better option would’ve been to tap the mini chassis in front of the recoil lug, but I’ve shot numerous mags through a single setup and there’s no slippage at all.

Having your plate at the rifle’s balance point is really important. I’ve used my Anvil30 on the rifle pictured above as well as a bipod pic rail at the forend on a different rifle. Connecting at the forend is a no go for me.

Yea the foreend is a no go, very shaky. Iv also got an anvil head and actually had a 2” pic rail mounted as close to the bottom metal as I could. Works perfect, and dosnt take up the real estate on the stock like a 1.5” arca rail does.
 

Elkangle

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Why doesn't someone make a bottom metal with a machined arca plate at the end of it...oh and have it be extended well mags 😉
 

Elkangle

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The hawking may be okay for hunting purposes...my rrs has dual jaws for arca and pic

Wondering how that would affect accuracy putting torque on that from action screw
 

tdbaugha

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I think the area 419 plates were originally designed to be used with the front bottom metal screw hole. Has anyone mounted them that way,
 

Axlrod

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I think the area 419 plates were originally designed to be used with the front bottom metal screw hole. Has anyone mounted them that way,
I have a 10" on a Ridgeline and 12" on a couple CZ 457's LRP's with the Manners stocks (22lr & 22 Mag). Using the front action screw and the sling mount hole.
They work, but i don't need the serrations as i am using them on an Anvil 30.
Now if @LivetohuntID could make some long ones, with and without pic rail up front that would be ideal! Hint hint
 
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drmatara

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The Area 419 plates were originally designed to be used with the front bottom metal screw hole.
 

Salmon River Solutions

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I have a 10" on a Ridgeline and 12" on a couple CZ 457's LRP's with the Manners stocks (22lr & 22 Mag). Using the front action screw and the sling mount hole.
They work, but i don't need the serrations as i am using them on an Anvil 30.
Now if @LivetohuntID could make some long ones, with and without pic rail up front that would be ideal! Hint hint

We’re working on a 10” rail right now! I’m sawing stock for it right now. Prototype would have been done yesterday if I hadn’t ordered the incorrect custom tool! $550 later I think I have the correct tool arriving next week! Should be released in April!
 

Axlrod

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We’re working on a 10” rail right now! I’m sawing stock for it right now. Prototype would have been done yesterday if I hadn’t ordered the incorrect custom tool! $550 later I think I have the correct tool arriving next week! Should be released in April!
That sounds great. Thank you!
 

hereinaz

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We’re working on a 10” rail right now! I’m sawing stock for it right now. Prototype would have been done yesterday if I hadn’t ordered the incorrect custom tool! $550 later I think I have the correct tool arriving next week! Should be released in April!
Yeah boi!
 
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Thanks @LivetohuntID mount works great! Since my Tikka had a secondary sling stud just forward of the mag I decided to mount it there, it's metric M5x.8. Marked the second hole and drilled it. To keep things simple used the m5x.8 screw, a fender washer and a nyloc nut to cap it off. Rock solid, can't wait to shoot it tomorrow.

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Looks great, and I'm considering this exact same setup, taking advantage of the same rear swivel screw nut (I have the same Tikka stock and VA-5 pan head) and drilling a second hole for a screw into a second nut. I have a couple questions (or for others in the know-- @LivetohuntID ?), if you don't mind. How did it work out at the range? I've read some people don't like shooting with a pan head, and having never tried it, I'm not sure why.

Where did you get those M5x8 screws? Does the shape of plate match the contour of the bottom of that part of the stock well enough to solidly attach with just the screws, or would some compound help? As far as fit, any loose play between the rail and the VA-5, or does it lock in pretty tight (I've seen not all Arca rails are exactly the same width)?
 

07yzryder

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Looks great, and I'm considering this exact same setup, taking advantage of the same rear swivel screw nut (I have the same Tikka stock and VA-5 pan head) and drilling a second hole for a screw into a second nut. I have a couple questions (or for others in the know-- @LivetohuntID ?), if you don't mind. How did it work out at the range? I've read some people don't like shooting with a pan head, and having never tried it, I'm not sure why.

Where did you get those M5x8 screws? Does the shape of plate match the contour of the bottom of that part of the stock well enough to solidly attach with just the screws, or would some compound help? As far as fit, any loose play between the rail and the VA-5, or does it lock in pretty tight (I've seen not all Arca rails are exactly the same width)?

I got the screws at ace hardware. The panhead m5x.8 fit pretty well. One m5 fender washer (little thicker and larger then a normal washer) fit perfect so I didn't have to cut any of the reenforcing X beam.

I was hitting a 10x10 steel plate at 500 all day. The head can be adjusted so my 6.5 didn't budge in the head at all, to adjust simply pull the lever out and turn counter clockwise, it's spring loaded.


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