Arrow Build Overview!!

[Dylan Sluis]

Recently I have posted a bunch of threads asking questions about arrow components and figuring out how I want to build my arrows. Now that I have completed the arrow build I figured it would be good to explain how everything went, so other people don't make some of the mistakes I made. I did everything myself, besides bringing the arrows to a shop to get them cut. This is my arrow build.

- Easton 5mm Axis Match Grade 300 Spine cut to 27.75in CTC
- 50 Grain Brass HIT
- 25 Grain Iron Will Impact Collar
- 100 Grain Point
- TAC Driver 2.25 4 Fletch
- TAC Arrow Wrap

I squared both ends of the shaft before doing anything else. I then removed the nocks and installed the HIT insert. I installed the HIT insert and let the arrows sit on a flat surface. I went back to check the depth about 3 hours later. And on most arrows the depth was good. But on some of them the depth was to deep, luckily I was able to just barely screw in a field point and pull the insert closer to the end. So if I were to do that again I would mix the epoxy and let it sit for 40 minutes before doing anything. So the glue would be more tacky so the HIT inserts wouldn't move after installing them. I then nock tuned all of the arrows, a PITA, but it is satisfying seeing perfect bare shaft flight.

I then wrapped all of the arrows and fletched them up with 2.25 driver in a 4 fletch. A big thing with TAC vanes is adhesion issues. That is the biggest complaint about them. This was my first time ever fletching arrows. I used their TAC wraps, primer pen, and glue. The only issues I had with adhesion were my fault, like glue on the clamp. Other then that they adhered great. I messed up one of the vanes on the last of 4 and decided to see how well they were stuck on the shaft. The arrow wrap would break before the vane would come unadhered, so adhesion wasn't an issue for me. I used a left helical clamp and put around 2-3 degrees of left helical on them and they stuck great. Now I just have to wait for the snow to melt so I can shoot these things at long range. Thanks for all of the help on my previous threads, it is greatly appreciated!!

 

[406unltd]

They look great.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

They look great.

I am very happy with how they turned out

 

[Nick Muche]

I've been using the TAC Vanes for about two years, and am still having issues with adhesion. Have you done anything different to get them to stick better? The ones that stick, REALLY STICK... but the ones that don't, pop off pretty easily. I am using wraps, the primer pen and TAC glue.

 

[Samdemarais]

Recently I have posted a bunch of threads asking questions about arrow components and figuring out how I want to build my arrows. Now that I have completed the arrow build I figured it would be good to explain how everything went, so other people don't make some of the mistakes I made. I did everything myself, besides bringing the arrows to a shop to get them cut. This is my arrow build.

- Easton 5mm Axis Match Grade 300 Spine cut to 27.75in CTC
- 50 Grain Brass HIT
- 25 Grain Iron Will Impact Collar
- 100 Grain Point
- TAC Driver 2.25 4 Fletch
- TAC Arrow Wrap

I squared both ends of the shaft before doing anything else. I then removed the nocks and installed the HIT insert. I installed the HIT insert and let the arrows sit on a flat surface. I went back to check the depth about 3 hours later. And on most arrows the depth was good. But on some of them the depth was to deep, luckily I was able to just barely screw in a field point and pull the insert closer to the end. So if I were to do that again I would mix the epoxy and let it sit for 40 minutes before doing anything. So the glue would be more tacky so the HIT inserts wouldn't move after installing them. I then nock tuned all of the arrows, a PITA, but it is satisfying seeing perfect bare shaft flight.

I then wrapped all of the arrows and fletched them up with 2.25 driver in a 4 fletch. A big thing with TAC vanes is adhesion issues. That is the biggest complaint about them. This was my first time ever fletching arrows. I used their TAC wraps, primer pen, and glue. The only issues I had with adhesion were my fault, like glue on the clamp. Other then that they adhered great. I messed up one of the vanes on the last of 4 and decided to see how well they were stuck on the shaft. The arrow wrap would break before the vane would come unadhered, so adhesion wasn't an issue for me. I used a left helical clamp and put around 2-3 degrees of left helical on them and they stuck great. Now I just have to wait for the snow to melt so I can shoot these things at long range. Thanks for all of the help on my previous threads, it is greatly appreciated!!View attachment 373183

Look good. One other thing I like to do is spin test each arrow with the components installed and a broad head on, before epoxy or hot melt dries. You can then spin components around until you find best alignment and truest spin.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

I've been using the TAC Vanes for about two years, and am still having issues with adhesion. Have you done anything different to get them to stick better? The ones that stick, REALLY STICK... but the ones that don't, pop off pretty easily. I am using wraps, the primer pen and TAC glue.

I didn't do anything that crazy. My glue and primer pen were brand new, so that might have an effect. My main thing is test fitting the vane to the shaft before gluing, checking that the vane is contacting the shaft at all points, and then just making sure you have enough glue. A helical clamp really helps with contact. Also make sure your primer pen is actually dispensing the liquid onto the base of the vane. Every once in a while you should check to make sure that primer pen is still working. I put my primer pen in a cup when I wasn't using it with the tip down so the primer pen worked every time for me. Are you using the TAC wraps and what style of fletching jig were you using. I was using the grayling fletching jig(bitzenberger style)

 

[Dylan Sluis]

Look good. One other thing I like to do is spin test each arrow with the components installed and a broad head on, before epoxy or hot melt dries. You can then spin components around until you find best alignment and truest spin.

I didn't have a spin tester when building the arrows. Currently have one on order and it should be delivered shortly. I wasn't super worried about straightness because these are match grade arrows that are cut to 27.75 CTC. So arrow straightness shouldn't be an issue for me. But I will definitely spin test arrows once my arrow spinner gets here.

 

[Samdemarais]

I didn't have a spin tester when building the arrows. Currently have one on order and it should be delivered shortly. I wasn't super worried about straightness because these are match grade arrows that are cut to 27.75 CTC. So arrow straightness shouldn't be an issue for me. But I will definitely spin test arrows once my arrow spinner gets here.

Ya it doesn’t always matter how straight the arrow is. It’s about the perfect fit of the components on the arrow

 

[Dylan Sluis]

Ya it doesn’t always matter how straight the arrow is. It’s about the perfect fit of the components on the arrow

I do understand that. I just wasn't super worried about it because of what I said above. If I had a longer arrow that would be much more important to me. And the collar on the arrows I didn't glue on, so that can spin as needed, and the broadheads I use have a rubber o-ring so I can rotate them until they spin true.

 

[Bump79]

Great build! Here's my $.02

When fletching an arrow you want the vane to be as far back on the shaft as possible without excessive face contact. It looks to me like you could move it back at least .5".

Think about your arrow like a lever. The further back the fletching is the more leverage it has.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

Great build! Here's my $.02

When fletching an arrow you want the vane to be as far back on the shaft as possible without excessive face contact. It looks to me like you could move it back at least .5".

Think about your arrow like a lever. The further back the fletching is the more leverage it has.

The vanes are actually only 1 1/8" from the back carbon of the arrow. The picture makes it look like the vanes are much farther forward than they actually are. I started at an inch and had slight facial contact with vane. So I moved them to 1 1/8" from the back of the carbon and now I am good. I would rather have the vanes slightly forward and no facial contact, then have them back a little bit and inconsistent facial pressure.

 

[JoeDirt]

What did your weight come in at? I built some 4mm Axis last year and didnt like using half outs so I think im going to stick with the 5mm shafts.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

What did your weight come in at? I built some 4mm Axis last year and didnt like using half outs so I think im going to stick with the 5mm shafts.

I don't have a scale. Also something that is on order. But after adding the weights of all the components, it is going to be right around 515 Grains with around 11% FOC(Have yet to calculate). I hunt whitetails with majority of shots under 40 yards. So I am very happy with this weight for my style of hunting. With my 29" DL and 72lbs, it will shoot about 265 FPS out of my bow. Will be shooting a fixed blade broadhead, almost 100% sure it will be the QAD Exodus after how it performed this year.

 

[svivian]

Any reason you nock tuned each arrow before putting the wraps on?

 

[Dylan Sluis]

Any reason you nock tuned each arrow before putting the wraps on?

Because I was waiting for my wraps to get delivered. I was impatient and just got em' done. Other then that, no, that is the only reason.

 

[Button]

Looks good. I have some axis on the way. Bought half a dozen of the sports to assemble and try before committing to a full dozen of 300 spine and finding out I’ll need 250 later down the road.

 

[Plowboy85]

Nice write up, love the color scheme. Any nock tuning or spine testing before setting cock vane?

 

[Dylan Sluis]

Nice write up, love the color scheme. Any nock tuning or spine testing before setting cock vane?

I did a 4 fletch so technically there is no cock vane. But yes, I nock tuned every, single, bare shaft through paper. It sucks, but it is very satisfying to see perfect bare shaft flight.

 

[5MilesBack]

Any nock tuning or spine testing before setting cock vane?

He's got a 4-fletch, so none of them will be the cock vane most likely. Probably a cock "gap".....LOL. I never know which is going to be the cock vane even with 3-fletch until I'm done nock tuning etc.

 

[Bump79]

Another thing to consider is to buy the Sport (SPT) version of the Axis. Or even the normal non pro Axis. They are the exact same shaft but have a different straightness tolerance. It is marketed as a different shaft but they are not and 99% of us could never tell the difference if you prep using this method.

Spin each arrow and then cut off the end that has the most wobble. If no noticeable wobble cut from both ends. Using this method you can make a .006 tolerance arrow shoot the same as a .001.

The cost might not seem significant but you'll save ~$95 per dozen. Paying for your components. To be frank most .006 shafts from reputable companies spin well and I shoot broadheads out to 90 multiple times per week. I can't tell the difference. Also, another area you could save in the future is by using the new Ethics Archery HIT and Collar (they've had the collar for quite awhile but added the HIT).

Adjustable 5mm/.204 Internal Insert with End Cap, .272 (Comparable to

Installation: For the Insert with End Cap, you will use the Installation Tool. Place the End Cap on, then the insert so you can install them at the same time. Make sure you dry fit the End Cap for proper fitment prior to gluing. *Installation Tool not included.

ethicsarchery.com

I roughly estimate that you can save $132 this way. Essentially building 2 dozen premium arrows for the same cost.