Arrow numbering / vetting

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Anyone ever number their arrows to separate the poorer flying ones? My bow shop recommended i do this. Whats your normal process look like? Start vetting them FPs and then switch to BHs, or just vet them with BHs? i didnt really notice many 'fliers' in my arrows until i switched to BHs, but i also didnt start numbering my arrows until after i started the BH tuning process.

Also, will a really worn down BH (dull, small chips in the blades) impact flight performance or is that a non-factor?
 
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I number all my shafts as a matter of course during the building process so I can keep them straight when weight-matching components (i.e., lighter shafts paired with heavier inserts/points and vice versa to get the most consistent total arrow weight possible, totally unnecessary step BTW, it just satisfies my OCD tendencies). My initial numbering is done by writing directly on the shaft with a Sharpie. After fletching (all same color vanes), I nock index each arrow by shooting through paper and choosing whichever orientation gives the best tear. I then write the arrow number on whichever vane ends up in the "cock" position to visually differentiate that vane from the others. Nock indexing should minimize fliers caused by radial spine variation, but if I still get a consistent flier, I'll just cull that arrow entirely. As with any form of tuning done to the arrow or bow, the effect will be more pronounced when shooting broadheads and may not be noticeable at all when shooting field points.

To your second question, I don't think a dull/chipped broadhead would have any appreciable effect compared to a brand new head.
 
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Always number my shafts.

Mouse covered a lot of it. Lot of times shooting indoor I'll shoot same arrow to the same spot. Makes me slow down a bit sorting my arrows out. Also when practicing like that, when you have a spot that the impacts are a little different you know you have an arrow that is off.
 
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Kbhillhunter
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Is it better to shoot broadheads to determine that or will shooting field points show the same poor flight patterns in a shaft?
 
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Is it better to shoot broadheads to determine that or will shooting field points show the same poor flight patterns in a shaft?
If you're going to index your nocks by shooting through paper, just use field points and stand close enough that the fletching doesn't have a chance to correct the attitude of the arrow before it hits the paper. Front foot about 6' from the paper seems to work well for me.

You could also index your nocks by shooting a broadhead-tipped arrow into a target followed by field point(s) then twisting the broadhead nock to the next position and shooting again until you find the nock position that groups closest to field points. This method can achieve the same end result as nock indexing through paper, but the validity of the results depends on your ability to hold a tight group.
 

Rob5589

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Any arrow that has any wobble with a BH gets marked with a Sharpie for field point use only.
 

Zac

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Would help to know what arrow you are shooting, and if you are using a factory fletch or not. Really the only reason to group tune is if you plan on spinning your nock. If you have a factory fletched cock vane, it may be difficult to know how to put your arrow in the rest during a pinch. Most of your wrap and roll type arrows will benefit from nock tuning. If you don't wan't to number them you can just shoot one at a time through paper and move your nock to a different vane until you find the best spot. If you are going to refletch them, you may wan't to use the same color of vanes, or do this process with a bare shaft. Then use the off colored vane as your cock vane. This can be a PITA if you do not have a jig that can accomplish this. Probably the easiest way to do this is to use some sort of a four fletch. Shoot a group, pull the fliers and move the nock until they suck back into the group. 4 fletch only helps due to breaking the arrow shaft into quarters vs thirds. Gives you one more spot to turn the nock.
 

rekkr870

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Tune one arrow at a time. No two arrows shoot exactly the same. Bareshaft each one, nock tune each one. Then fletch them once their flying straight with a bareshaft.

Use solid color fletched and just mark your spot on the arrow where your nock tune is. Cock feathers don’t make any sense. Arrows that bareshaft perfect will fly with any broadhead you want.


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I number when building my arrows then before they are ever fletched I shoot each through paper and turn the nock 1/8 turn or so at a time until every arrow is a perfect bullet hole. Then I know each arrow is coming out of the bow the same way. That 6-7' range seems to work well for me also I might have my front foot a little further but my bow is probably 7' away from the paper. Generally with good quality arrow they will all come into bullet holes or very near and then it's just shaft straightness that eliminates broadhead use.
 
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Kbhillhunter
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Would help to know what arrow you are shooting, and if you are using a factory fletch or not. Really the only reason to group tune is if you plan on spinning your nock. If you have a factory fletched cock vane, it may be difficult to know how to put your arrow in the rest during a pinch. Most of your wrap and roll type arrows will benefit from nock tuning. If you don't wan't to number them you can just shoot one at a time through paper and move your nock to a different vane until you find the best spot. If you are going to refletch them, you may wan't to use the same color of vanes, or do this process with a bare shaft. Then use the off colored vane as your cock vane. This can be a PITA if you do not have a jig that can accomplish this. Probably the easiest way to do this is to use some sort of a four fletch. Shoot a group, pull the fliers and move the nock until they suck back into the group. 4 fletch only helps due to breaking the arrow shaft into quarters vs thirds. Gives you one more spot to turn the nock.

I'm using factory arrows, gold tip hunter XT 250, uncut with standard 2" 3x blazers. This is interesting, I had not heard anything before about rotating the nock. I don't really have easy access to shoot through paper. Can any of this be achieved just from shooting at a target?
 
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This is an interesting thread - good information 👍🏻. Looks like I'll be spending the next several weeks trying to eliminate the flyer arrows. What distance are you guys shooting to get your group size to figure out which arrows shoot true? I typically don't shoot inside of 30 yards (to eliminate wrecking arrows) but that might be too far to really tell which arrows are on and which are off...
 
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Can any of this be achieved just from shooting at a target?
Yes. Number your arrows and shoot groups. If a particular arrow consistently hits outside the group, twist its nock 120° (if you're shooting three-fletch arrows) or 90° (four-fletch) and keep shooting. If the arrow you adjusted is still consistently outside the group, twist the nock another increment and keep shooting. Repeat this process until you find the best nock orientation for the problem arrow (or arrive back where you started).

Another possible source of fliers is misalignment between the broadhead and arrow, which could be caused by a bent broadhead ferrule or a misaligned/out-of-square insert. Roll your arrows along a flat surface (or better yet, use an arrow spinner made for this purpose if you have one) with a broadhead installed and watch how much the tip wobbles as the arrow spins. Unless you can rig up a concentricity gauge to actually measure radial run-out, this is just an imprecise/subjective "smell test," but it should allow you to identify any serious misalignment. If a particular arrow shows excessive tip wobble, swap the broadhead to see if that's the problem component. If there's no improvement after swapping heads, try squaring the end of the insert.
 
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You can mostly build the flyers out of your set. Sometimes there will be a couple, but If you pre-spin your arrows before gluing in your inserts you can get rid of a lot of wobble. I’d also recommend that you get an arrow saw and learn to build from start to finish, if you’re wanting to get really detailed.
 
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I hardly ever shoot groups. That's how you damage arrows. Get a 5 spot target and shoot your labeled arrows to labeled spots. I'd do it at the furthest distance you know you can get a perfect hold. Might be 10 yards, might be 25. Shooting a single arrow at a time, 8-10 yards and putting all in the same hole would do it as well.
 

Zac

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I'm using factory arrows, gold tip hunter XT 250, uncut with standard 2" 3x blazers. This is interesting, I had not heard anything before about rotating the nock. I don't really have easy access to shoot through paper. Can any of this be achieved just from shooting at a target?
Yes of course it can. Split your 12 shafts into two groups. Shoot 6 arrow groups at a distance you group very well at. The arrows that do not stay in the group,(flyers), are the shafts that get the nock turned. You would move the nock to the next vane position and repeat the group. If that wayward arrow is still outside the group you turn the nock to the next vane and repeat the process.
 
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Kbhillhunter
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Some great tips here, appreciate everyone chiming in! I have some more work to do now, September is just around the corner
 

Beendare

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Good answers above. Perfect arrow assembly and testing is critical. I can't tell you how many times I've been guiding or hunting with another bowhunter that didn't test BH arrow flight and shot a bad arrow on an animal resulting in a poor shot location miss or worse. Assuming your arrow will fly like your FP's is a poor strategy.

We just don't get that many chances....why leave it to chance?

I typically get about one in 15 arrows that I have to not tune to get to group with the rest.

I use a jig to confirm my arrows are perfect....spinning on a table viewing with the naked eye has not been accurate enough IME. Perfectly assembled arrow fly perfectly.

BH tuning is a critical step.

I then shoot every hunting arrow for group at 40/50 yds. I choose my BH [strong/COC] to work with my process as I can touch it up and then in the quiver- total confidence.

____
 
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