Arrow question

kfili

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 10, 2020
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VA
Ok i hate that im asking this, i hate being that guy but here we are...
Im shooting a smoky mountain hunter, 45 @ 28, drawing probably 27. I currently shoot full length beman centershot arrows 500 with 3 4in feathers standard inserts and 100 grain head TAW added up at 392ish. Ill be running magnus stingers for whitetails.
So my arrows are flying good they hit where there supposed to but im nervous they are too light.
Question 1 are they too light?
Question 2 if i am looking to up my weight and go with a stiffer spine about how much weight should i add via insert/tip?
Trad archery seems more sensitive to spine issues than compound or maybe im overthinking this all.
Pic is proof I'm getting the hang of this thing though! (And bragging on myself)
 

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kfili

Lil-Rokslider
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Messages
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VA
FWIW i was thinking of going with 400 BE vintage with an extra 75-100 grains up front,and running full length (34in)
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2015
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I am a novice when it comes to this... but I’ve done my share of research. It does seem light. Are they the 2 blade stingers or with bleeders? You may get a pass through if you slip between ribs, but if you hit one idk if it would make it through. The heavier arrow will also quiet that bow down some and lessen the chance the deer jump the string too; or get a second shot in. People with way more kills under their trad belts will give you some real good info. If it were me I would try to be around 500gr total. But with 2 blade COC well made head and good shot placement (nice shooting BTW) you may get full pass through.
 

Ddog

WKR
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Dec 2, 2018
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MI
I shoot 500s cut to 29.5" with 200 out front with a 28" draw and they fly great from 45# bows. They weigh in right around 10 gpp. BE Vintage with standard inserts. IMO, you could cut those back and add tip weight to tune, 400s will be quite stiff for a 45# bow. Nice shooting.
 

milunchbox

Lil-Rokslider
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Dec 5, 2014
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el mitten
Try bare shaft tuning that will help. Also whats the arrow look like at about 6 yards off the bow???
 

inyago

FNG
Joined
Sep 1, 2019
Messages
59
You need to accurately measure your draw length, abought is not good enough.Then check the bows real poundage at your draw length. 500,s are suitable for 43/45+ bows. You could cut your shafts to say 29".
T
 

inyago

FNG
Joined
Sep 1, 2019
Messages
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Don't know what happened then, anyway you can get inserts of 50 to 100 grains if beemans are a .245/6 internal dia shaft. If they are .204 there's plenty of heavy inserts available. Heads they can be any weight from 100 to 300 grs. It would not be difficult to build a 600 grns shaft. To heavy though and you get trajectory problems.
 

Beendare

WKR
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May 6, 2014
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Corripe cervisiam
Heres what I would do. Confirm through bae shafting that my arrow is perfect. Your current arrow with a straight 2 blade will work for whitetails....probably just a bit loud in that bow. A 2 blade head gives you great performance even with a light arrow.

If you decide you want more weight which I think is a good idea, #1 you need to decide whether a shorter arrow is going to screw up your aiming system. You can cut them shorter and add tip weight but then your gaps will be a lot larger.

Once you know your existing setup bare shafts, you can enter that into the Stu Miller calculator and tweak it to show perfect with their shooter adjustment number.

Then you change the arrow to a higher spine and play with tip weight until the calculator shows perfect. My guess is you can bump up one spine size and add a 50 gr insert to make it work. This will add about 75gr to your arrow setup with the heavier GPI plus the insert. Find a heavier GPI arrow system and it adds more than that.

IME, The Stu calculator works pretty good to find other combos once you adjust it to a setup that you know works. You are shooting a rest so it should be pretty forgiving of arrow spine.

_____
 

sneaky

"DADDY"
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I would shorten those 500s and add a brass insert personality, but I don't gap shoot so that might throw off your whole system. What length are the shafts you're shooting now, from throat of the nock to back of point? You can definitely make a heavier arrow setup out of your 500s, especially if you're not drawing a full 28" and only pulling low 40s on weight.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Joined
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Otis Orchards Wa
Get some full length 400 spine carbons and put 250 grains up front. That will get close to 650 grains total and will blow through anything in north america with 45lbs and a razor sharp two blade broadhead.
 
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kfili

Lil-Rokslider
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Apr 10, 2020
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So i think I'm gonna try some 75 grain inserts, maybe also 125 grain heads then cut as needed o tune, assuming i cut down to around 29 inches thatll put me around 430ish so right around 10 gpp.
 
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kfili

Lil-Rokslider
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Current update, cut the arrows to 29.5 added 75gr inserts still shooting 100 grain heads- got dark so only shooting at 5 yards but there flying good!
 

Felix40

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Jul 27, 2015
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New Mexico
Current update, cut the arrows to 29.5 added 75gr inserts still shooting 100 grain heads- got dark so only shooting at 5 yards but there flying good!
Did you shoot any bare shafts? Thats where you will find out if the spine will work
 

A.Hutch

FNG
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Jun 2, 2020
Messages
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you can bare shaft with bad form.....so long as your bad form is consistent.



Hutch
 

Macleod

FNG
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Oct 11, 2018
Messages
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Location
Maine
I’m also new to trad and I also shoot an OMP 45# recurve. My arrow setup is 31” Black Eagle Vintage 500s with standard insert + 30 gr brass inserts and 175 tips. I’m still messing around but it seems to work OK. It’s basically just been trial and error looking for a formula that tends to shoot straight, even though my form is not amazing. I knew I wanted to shoot heavy arrows so I got one of those test packs of field tips from 3 Rivers and kept going up in weight until it shot straight without dropping too fast. It’s been fun just trying stuff.
 
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