Arrow Tuning

[D_Eightch]

No such thing as a dumb question right?

I just ordered up everything to get started on my adventure into traditional archery. I've shot a lot of compound and built numerous arrows but always picked components and cut length etc. based off software.

There will be no difference for me to glue in my inserts and trim the back end of my shaft while working my arrows to the proper spine, right?

I ordered a test kit B of Traditional Only Carbon arrows and heavy weight field point set up from 3 Rivers.

 

[oldgoat]

Sounds like a great plan! Tuning is tuning, nice thing about stick bows is the arrow is slow enough to see clearly. Good idea for you I think is too put a bright wrap on it, aids in seeing what the arrow is doing easier, and it helps simulate the weight of the the fletches, I use a full length wrap on my bare shaft and then use just long enough wraps on my fletched shafts.

 

[Wrench]

The trend is to shoot the stiffest shaft the internet will sell you. I strongly suggest trying a weaker shaft than you think you may need and see what happens. I had a guy come to my place with 340's and leave with 500's. I didn't tell him what I was handing him and just had him keep shooting.

Most people will collapse if anything. I like to stay closer to too weak than too stiff myself.

For the sake of tuning, taking from the back is the logical choice for bares and typically acceptable fletched. Things do get affected in paradox by fletch location....but that's higher level than 99% of us can shoot.

 

[Beendare]

Delete

 

[GLB]

Yep, improper bow hand grip and collapsing are two most common shooting errors that will make your arrows seem too weak No matter what.
Get your arrows close for now, work on form as already been mentioned and as you progress you will know what your tune needs to be. Spend a lot of time at 10-12 yards during this period.

 

[oldgoat]

There are a few exceptions that trimming from the back isn't an option, the dual spine shafts from Carbon Express for sure and I don't think you are supposed to trim from the back on the tapered shafts that are bigger in the front and smaller in the back, but I might be completely wrong about those, never shot them. Then there's the Black Eagle Instincts where if you trim off the front, you play hell getting their outserts on.

 

[qwerksc]

Kimsha hot melt, the stuff is key to ease of removal of inserts, makes tuning way less of a pain.

 

[Wrench]

For A good bare shaft tune, you have to have both good form and consistency.

The problem with newbies is they typically have neither.... I was no exception.

I would focus more on developing your form and consistency and not worry so much about trying to tune your arrows in the beginning.
—

I'm decades into this and some days I still fall apart.

 

[D_Eightch]

Thank you for all the input. It's apparent my form is the issue when messing around so far. I will continue to work on shot sequence consistency...

 

[CoyoteTree]

I trimmed from back and it worked great. Or holt melt tips if you have fletched shafts. Just have to make sure the carbon isnt heated too much.