Arrows - No Clue Where to Start

[treillw]

Need to buy my first dozen arrows after over 15 years. Pretty impressive right? Well maybe... maybe I just don't take risky enough shots!

Anyway, I have no clue where to start really. Talked to two local shops and got a recommendation for the Easton pro comp ac hunter from one shop.

The other shop recommended a 240 spline Easton Bloodline. Total arrow weight to be around 475 grains with 50 grains of brass up front and a 100 grain point.

I'm currently shooting a Hoyt RX1 with 70 pound limbs (actual draw weight is more like 75 when maxed) and a 29" draw. Next year I will probably get a 70 pound PSE Mach 1. I want to make sure whatever arrow I get will work with the new bow that I choose next year. It will either be a PSE carbon, or Hoyt carbon. I don't think this will be an issue, because I'll still be at the same poundage (+/- 5 pounds) and draw with the new bow, but just throwing it out there!

There are all kinds of fletching configurations out there as well. No clue which way to go. 3 fletch, 4 fletch, different vanes, fobs.....

These are interesting. Are they junk?

Finally on to my intended use. I am a hunter. Will be chasing elk primarily. Live in MT; long shots are easy to come by. I want the arrow to blow through any elk, but still shoot flat enough that misjudged distances don't bite me.

One shop told me that I cannot go too stiff when recommending the 240 spine. I have heard elsewhere that straightness is the most important thing in choosing an arrow.

What broadhead to choose is a-whole-nother can of worms. Suggestions?

Well, I appreciate any insight! Thanks!

 

[Topo_trekker]

Easton axis match grades are hard to beat for straightness and price. All around great shaft. I’d stay away from the vanes that seem like a gimmick because they usually are. I personally think low profile 4 fletch is my favorite for bh flight. Goods ones to check in the 2-3” range. bohning heat, Q2i fusion, vanetec.


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[JasonWi]

Hello:

I'm not arguing with the bow shops, but I don't think you truly need to be using a .240/.250 spine arrow..my reason for this is I'm also a 29" DL and shoot a Hoyt Helix Ultra @ 75#, but I'm using .300 spine. My arrows have the 25 grain SS HIT insert with a 100 tip. They tuned and shoot great.

Since your primary goal is elk and you want to stay flat shooting for yardage mishaps I think something in the 450-475 grain range will achieve this. Under 50 yards the drop between a lighter arrow and a 500 grain arrow isn't significant enough to miss and elks vital. Where you will really notice the heavier arrow is starting to go north of 50 yards and not having the correct yardage.

I think the Easton Match grade Axis is a fantastic option and have very positive results with them.

I personally didn't care for FOBS because of how they contacted my face. I run my fletches a bit forward on the shaft to reduce contact with my face/beard if I happen to grow one. Less facial contact the better

 

[emp626]

I agree you can’t go wrong with the carbon axis match. I’m running a carbon spyder turbo 67# and sitting around 518 grains with 300 spine 29.5” draw getting around 285 FPS. Nice even pin gaps and fly very well. I was using 260 spine but speed was a good bit slower so pin gaps were not as small and my sight bottomed out at 87 yards. Switched to the 300 spine plus dropping a bit of weight off the front and I’m sure I can adjust my sight for over 100 now though I’m still in the process of creating the sight tape for this arrow build just need some better weather. I’ll also say the heat vanes are good but I switched from those to aae max23 due to contact issues. I’m testing 3 and 4 fletch with some vpa 3 blades. JasonWi hit it on the head with running your vanes a bit forward on the shaft. I learnt this lesson personally so I keep my vanes 1.25” in front of the back of the shaft cut. Hope this helps

 

[jlaner0408]

If you’re going to be putting much weight on the front end of that arrow (100 grain point plus say a 50-100 grain insert or collar system), you’re probably going to need that .250ish spine.

 

[Ucsdryder]

150 total up front you’ll be fine at a 300 but a 260 will give you more room for error. Being over spined is ok, being under spined is usually an issue. Easton axis makes a good arrow, as well gold tip kinetic, you can run both with a 50/75 grain brass hit inserts. As far as fletching I’d go with something simple like 3 blazer offset.

 

[rclouse79]

I was shooting under spined carbon express for a number of years and continually beat my head against a while while shooting broadheads. I am a slow learner. Switched to a 260 Easton axis 5mm with 75 grain brass insert and 100 grain tips and could not be happier. Super easy to tune and to get broadheads grouping with field tips.

I like the FOB's, but actually just decided to go with AZ EZ fletch 2 inch blazers instead. I have 12 white FOB's that fit the Easton Axis 5mm on the classifieds right now for $20. If you end up going with this arrow send me a p.m. and I will mail you a FOB for free to see if you like it.

 

[Where's Bruce?]

Download OT2, it will allow you to consider several options and identify the best one for the application (hunting, competition, etc) and provides a clear indicator of how close you are to perfection. For hunting in particular this is a very useful program. You want results that look like this.

 

[Zac]

First I would tell you to figure out what diameter arrow you intend on running. I'm going to rule out the .246 due to you wanting to shoot further distances. You are left with .204, or a .166. There is plenty of material out there for you to do your own research on which is best for your applications. In general the .204s are easier to work with regarding components. While the .166s will give you less wind drift and slightly more penetration. I can give you some common hunting shafts to consider. You are also going to wan't to research components that are available for the shaft that you pick. You can use standard components, yet you will usually get a lot of durability for your money if you decide to use something from Iron Will or Ethics.

.204 Diameters.
Easton Axis Match Grade (well priced, very consistent) would recommend using a footer or collar with HIT's
Black Eagle Rampage (extremely straight) would recommend using the Focus outsert system
Sirius Archery Apollo (very tough consistent shaft, heavier than the two above (comes with Ethics components)

.166 Diameters
Gold Tip Pierce Kinetic (components can be somewhat fragile)
Black Eagle Deep Impact (again use the Focus system)
Victory VAP (shaft of choice for high FOC, if that's your thing, really shitty stock components)
Day Six (most durable micro diameter shaft, extremely heavy, good stock components)
Vector Custom Shop (also possibly the most durable micro, comes with Ethics components)

Fletching:
Bohning Blazer 3 fletch 3 degree helical will stabilize anything with blades.
Any four fletch with a one degree straight offset will also do just fine.
(If you are not into nock tuning the 3 fletch is a simple solution. If you like to turn nocks 4 fletch can be nice. There is a lot of free research on this as well.

Broadheads:
Premium heads: Iron Will, Day 6, Bishop, Valkyrie
Direct to consumer mid priced heads: Annihilator, Kudu, Cut Throat, Tooth of the Arrow
Big Box Store heads: QAD Exodus, Slick Trick, Grim Reaper

My opinion:
If you don't want to go super pointy hat (Valkyrie), I believe the easiest most durable system is an Easton Axis with Iron Will hidden insert and collar. 3 Bohning Blazers, standard nock, a QAD Exodus or an Iron Will head. Easton does not wrap their arrows and usually nock tuning and spine indexing is not necessary as long as the front and back of the arrow are properly squared. The normal guy can slap three Blazers on and have similar tears through paper with all 12 shafts. As mentioned earlier, 3 Blazers allows you to use any of the heads mentioned above.

Hope this helps.

 

[Elkhntr08]

First, don’t care what your DL is, what’s your arrow length? Start with that and your draw weight and look at the Easton chart. Pick a point weight and shaft.
Be careful chasing the FOC dragon, if it’s too heavy it won’t tune you now have a different problem. I started with 5mm FMJ 340 and brass inserts. Ended up with standard inserts and 100 grain IW V100.
Every bow and archer is different, you have to find the combination that works best for you.