Bad left tear

[livingandlearning]

Alright fellas I’m looking for more help from you all. I’ve got a left handed elite e35 that’s giving me a really bad nock left tear and I’m not sure how to fix it. Bow specs:

-Left hand elite e 35
-65 pound limbs (maxed at 66 pounds)
-28.5 inch draw
-cams are timed
-CS is 13/16 (factory spec is 3/4-13/6)
-nock point 90 degrees to string
-arrow is Easton axis 340 at 27” long with 75 grain brass HIT insert with 100 grain field tip.

Below is a picture of 4 shots from 6 feet. Moving the rest to fix the tear is going to have the bow out of spec. I’ve been fooling around trying to fix this with the cable rod and it isn’t working. I have tried every position between 6-9 o’clock and have exactly what’s pictured below. I really want to figure this out on my own. I’ve got a bow master portable press and draw board. I’m looking for suggestions as I’d really like to be practicing in the evenings and not spending my time chasing my tail. Any help is appreciated.

 

[OR Archer]

You can move the shims if you haven’t already. There should be a thick and thin on there. Put the thicker on the right side to move the cam left. For that size of year you’ll want to move the top and bottom shims.

 

[Rob5589]

Shim towards the tear; try a .300 spine shaft.

 

[Blktailhtr]

guessing its a new bow for you. just move the rest for now and see if u still get it. if you do its probably your grip. if not move rest back and move the shims.

 

[elksrunningwild6969@gmail]

340 with a 50 grain insert would be a better choice with a 100 grain tip. Even better a 300 spune with a 125 tip and 50 or 60 grain insert. Have you checked cam lean. How are you holding your bow could have a bit to do with it as well.

 

[livingandlearning]

guessing its a new bow for you. just move the rest for now and see if u still get it. if you do its probably your grip. if not move rest back and move the shims.

I considered this as well as possibly too much face pressure. I’ll move the rest and report back.

 

[Spiral Horn]

Tuning today‘s bows looks easy when a bow mechanic trained to work on that precise bow does it. But for the rest of us mere mortals it either goes very well or very wrong.

The good news is you have a pretty radical but consistent tear, so there is something pretty significantly out of whack but it doesn’t look like multiple things. Doubt moving the rest will fix that kind of tear - it will at least move everything out of CS. I’d first try different spined or weighted arrow if one is handy to see if it’s a spine issue. Then play with shimming the cams, followed by switching out the arrow rest.

 

[Blktailhtr]

I considered this as well as possibly too much face pressure. I’ll move the rest and report back.

I just put a chris bee grip on a VXR earlier this week and no matter what I did I got the same tear. even tried 4 diff releases. decided to change my grip a bit and its been money since. my vxr setup is similar to yours but with a 350 and 63# and gets perfect flight so i doubt it's arrow spine.

 

[bigmikebrz23]

With 175 grains up front, may need a 300 spine. As others have said, check your grip. Could also try shimming the cams if your grip is good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[livingandlearning]

I believe all of you that are suggesting grip/form issues are onto something. I decided to do a little more research before switching shims and ran across this thread on archery talk.

Paper tune, Shims wont get rid of left tear

www.archerytalk.com

Post #9 gave me some insight into what I may be doing wrong. So I went out this morning and extended my release by 1/2” then went to shoot. I focused on getting my left elbow more behind my head and the picture attached is what I’m getting now.

I shot several more times after this pic and am definitely not consistent but the tears are much better than yesterday. Seems to me at this point I need to focus on my form getting a consistent tear before I change anything else. Would you all agree?

 

[5MilesBack]

I really want to figure this out on my own.

I would love to help.......but you don't want help.

 

[livingandlearning]

I would love to help.......but you don't want help.

Ha, I suppose I did contradict myself. What I meant was I don’t want to have to rely on an archery shop and would like to dip into the collective wisdom here in order to learn how to do this on my own. Suggestions appreciated!

 

[5MilesBack]

If it's a form issue, N&B's is your man. It's hard to tune away bad form.

 

[livingandlearning]

If it's a form issue, N&B's is your man. It's hard to tune away bad form.

N&B’s?

 

[5MilesBack]

N&B’s?

Nut's and Bolt's.......the AT poster from post #9 that you mentioned.

 

[4rcgoat]

N&B’s?

Look him up over on Archery Talk,its a deep rabbit hole.

 

[livingandlearning]

Thought I’d bring this thread back up with an update for those of you making suggestions about form as well as for anyone that may be reading this and in the same boat as me. As I mentioned above, my grip and form was out of whack.

I dove into tuning my own equipment this off season and it’s been eye opening. I’m glad I made the jump but I’ve got work to do. Since I posted the last picture I’ve been shooting much more consistently and have been able to hone in on my issues. Rotating my left collar bone to get my release arm in a straight line and tightening up my grip has allowed me to shoot bullet holes. For those reading this with issues similar to mine, if your bow is in spec and cams are timed properly and you’re not getting bullet holes, check your form!

Attached is a picture of several shots with old form and purposefully torquing the bow and the last shot (bullet hole) with my fixed form. This was the eye opening part as very small changes led to major inconsistencies on the paper. I’m sure I’ll be back to you all for more advice but you’ve been a big help. Thanks!

 

[John.45]

Some great info in here. I was also struggling with a nock left tear. Most of problem was fixed by adjusting my bow hand grip and some slight adjustments on the rest. I also did some reading from archery nuts and bolts mentioned earlier in the thread. Ton of info there to help people out.