Bare shaft tuning issues

Wodez

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Jan 16, 2020
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Yesterday I tried shooting some fletched arrows and 1 bare shaft at 40 yards to see how they grouped.
It was better than I thought but the bare shaft was coming in at different angles to the fletched. There’s 2 different groups attached.

Today I started nock tuning 4 arrows through paper at 6 yards and I am having some different results. first 3 tuned ok but I have never been one to be able to get a consistent bullet hole. But on average they were all a little nock high. The Last one started doing massive tears, mainly left over 1 inch. Couldn’t nock tune it out. I went back to the other 3 and they shot better but not as good as before. Somewhere along this process a monkey tail fell off. So I took the other monkey tail off to make things equal (ran out of spares). But they still shot poor. Would going from 2 monkey tails on the string to none impact the bow tune.

I also checked rest height with a square and found it to be very nock high. I do understand nock high is common with Hoyts but this looks a little extreme. Would raising the rest help with the bare shaft and fletched shaft groups/tune?

Cheers
 

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Trigger06

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Jun 16, 2017
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I've noticed that bare shafts are much more sensitive to my form. If I'm tired, my form starts to breakdown a bit and the bare shafts definitely show it.
 

Marble

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May 29, 2019
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My .02...with archery.

Change one thing, change everything.

Just get it back to factory specs. Everytime one of my Hoyts starts shooting like shit there was something wrong.

Check the timing, check the rest, tighten everything and let it rip.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

Zac

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I wouldn't pay a lot of attention to how your bare shaft impacts unless it is impacting the exact same every time. You can shoot your bare shaft through paper at up to 21 feet if you feel okay about your form. I would start by doing what you are doing. Simply rotate your nocks until all of the arrows you are shooting are tearing similarly. They do not have to be bullet holes. You just wan't the same tear on every shaft. At this point you can start making lateral and horizontal adjustments. If you are nock high you can raise the rest or lower your nock. Most Hoyt's will tune anywhere from an 8th to a 16th high. You wan't your cams to hit exactly the same, or the top cam to hit first. You will want to make your lateral adjustments with your yokes. Set your center shot at 13/16 then use your yokes to chase the tail end of the tear. You can take it to your shop if you do not have a press. If all of this fails you are probably dealing with a spine issue. If that is the case we can discuss that if the problem arises.
 

Arctic Hunter

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Inconsistent flight with a bare shaft is usually going to be a form issue. Usually facial pressure, grip torque, collapsing on the shot, etc.... Shoot more than one bare shaft if you’re going to do it.

A spine that’s too weak can also cause it. But it’s more than like form. Heavy weight forward will also give you a tail high that’s difficult to get rid of. I don’t pay as much attention to tail high as I do right/left.

set everything where it should be, and yoke tune. If that doesn’t fix it,you might try a stiffer spine. Cutting a little off your current arrows if you can might help.
 
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Wodez

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Jan 16, 2020
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I started to wonder if it was fatigue/form. After nock tuning 3 in a row the fourth was a struggle.
When you say Hoyts tune about an 8th nock high is that from the nock point to the rest of the nock point to the arrow tip?
I found an extra monkey tail so I put the 2 back on and shot a little better but still not as good as the first 10-15 shots earlier.
Glad I don’t have to chase bullet holes.
Off to the range tomorrow to see how I shoot.
 

Zac

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Dec 1, 2018
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998
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I started to wonder if it was fatigue/form. After nock tuning 3 in a row the fourth was a struggle.
When you say Hoyts tune about an 8th nock high is that from the nock point to the rest of the nock point to the arrow tip?
I found an extra monkey tail so I put the 2 back on and shot a little better but still not as good as the first 10-15 shots earlier.
Glad I don’t have to chase bullet holes.
Off to the range tomorrow to see how I shoot.
You do need to chase bullet holes. They just don't have to be the first item on your list. First you need to make sure all of your arrows are reacting the same. Then you make the adjustments to achieve a bullet hole. You wan't your bow in a vice to be totally square and level. You wan't your shaft to be running directly through the berger hole. This can be difficult with Hoyts because they put that stupid rubber plate on the rest. You can push a pin through the center of the berger hole and leave it there to ensure it separates the arrow shaft into two equal sides. You are going to tie in your nocking sets with the top one stationed so that the arrow sits an 8th of an inch high based on your arrow square. This means the 8th of an inch indicator needs to run straight through the shaft. After your top knot is secured you can tie a lower nocking set, followed by your D loop. I'll include some very helpful resources.
 

cuttiebrownbow

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Feb 13, 2019
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BS are so sensitive to everything in your shot that if you get tired that you won’t be able to shoot them consistently enough to get relatable results.

Initial set up and cam timing are very important for tunable results.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Don Qui Puncher

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That’s some Levi Morgan stuff, 40 yards with a bareshaft. I always do it at 20 if I like what I’m seeing shoot fixed heads at 70-80 yards, 80% of the time I like what I see at that distance and once in a while I give the rest a click or two and call it good. I’ve never nock tuned I get the .001 arrows and cut and square both ends.
 
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5MilesBack

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I always do it at 20 if I like what I’m seeing shoot fixed heads at 70-80 yards, 80% of the time I like what I see at that distance

This year I kept getting a nock right at 20 with BS's that impact left of fletched. It wouldn't tune out, so I jumped right to BH's at 60. BH's were impacting about 5" right of FP's which is the opposite corrections for a nock right BS at 20. So I shot a BS at 40.........and what do you know......it was impacting right of fletched and was nock left. I shot both BH's and BS's at 40 and they kept impacting together right of FP's. So some quick yoke tuning and they were all good to go. At that point, I don't even care what the BS's are doing at 20 anymore. From now on I'm jumping right to 40 yards for my BS tuning.
 

Don Qui Puncher

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I’ve been lucky so far nothing that complicated that I needed to shoot that far for it to show up, I don’t think I’m disciplined enough in my shot process to shoot 5 BS at 40 and have all the same impact, 20 I can everytime 30 I’m ok but the slightest breeze has me chasing my tail I usually stick to 20 then fixed heads, and have been lucky enough to not have to do more than that but it’s a smaller sample size maybe 10 bows over the past few years, and shooting smaller profile fixed heads.
 
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Wodez

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Jan 16, 2020
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Whenever I’m tuning I always have to shoot a few and go with an average before I adjust anything.
I shot average today. Lifted the rest slightly to help with broadheads impacting with fp. But for the hole day there was no nice groups
 

Zac

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Jesse Broadwater bareshaft tunes at 100. For me it's through paper at 21 feet.
 

5MilesBack

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Jesse Broadwater bareshaft tunes at 100. For me it's through paper at 21 feet.

I've never shot a bare shaft past 50 but at 40 and 50 they seem to mimic my fixed blade heads pretty well. Here's a pic of fletched FP, bare shaft, and fixed blade BH at 50. I figure past 40 I might as well just be shooting BH's.
100_3705.JPG
 
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