Bare shaft tuning my bowtech

[180splitg3]

Timing was checked about three days ago at my local shop when I was paper tuning - they said it was right on. I will be working on nock tuning today. I'm way too meticulous for this process! I'm expecting perfection and it's difficult to achieve

 

[Brendan]

Timing was checked about three days ago at my local shop when I was paper tuning - they said it was right on. I will be working on nock tuning today. I'm way too meticulous for this process! I'm expecting perfection and it's difficult to achieve

Make sure you've tested at longer ranges than 20 yards too. You can get a bare shaft that's on at 20, and missing at 30, and completely missing the target at 40. That will show up in your broadheads at long range too.

 

[180splitg3]

So, I moved my rest up a little further today to try to bring my broadheads and field points together vertically. The bottom of my arrow is about level with the top of the berger hole. I could probably move the nocking point and rest down 1/4 before hitting the shelf with the qad. Is this arrow position/nock point anything to be worried about or do do I just continue tuning in broadheads? Everything I have read says to keep the arrow as close to centered on the berger hole as possible. I just don't want to be fighting something like this if it would help to move the nocking point down. I do seem to be getting some inconsistent vertical arrows (left and right seem good) - it could definitely be me but I thought I would ask. Could cam timing be slightly off? I also seem to have quite a bit of room for the nock to slide inside my d-loop. The shop said it was snug at full draw but it seems like another variable that could be causing high low issues...Thanks for the help!

 

[jmez]

Nock point is pretty high to have your arrow that far above the Berger hole. I would start over and do the following.

Level the arrow through the center of the Berger hole. Tie the nock sets so you cut the up and down play you currently have in half. Tie new D loop. Move rest if needed from there.

As for inconsistent impacts. For me, if I'm getting consistent bad/off impact it is something with the bow. If it's inconsistent, it's the guy behind the bow.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

 

[Brendan]

I'll add to what jmez said above - you do want to make sure timing is on too as that can throw off vertical. I'd do that before tying in the new nock set.

Another way to fix a low bare shaft / broadhead is by twisting / untwisting cables to bring one cam slightly ahead / another behind. But, don't do this before following advice above.

 

[180splitg3]

Thank you for the advice guys. If I move the rest down it will be slapping the shelf when it drops (it is still hitting the shelf as it is now). It should have enough clearance to fall away to 90 degrees but is this an issue? I'm honestly debating going back to a whisker biscuit so I can keep the nocking point/arrow as close to the center of the string as possible...

 

[Brendan]

Thank you for the advice guys. If I move the rest down it will be slapping the shelf when it drops (it is still hitting the shelf as it is now). It should have enough clearance to fall away to 90 degrees but is this an issue? I'm honestly debating going back to a whisker biscuit so I can keep the nocking point/arrow as close to the center of the string as possible...

Don't go to a whisker biscuit. Plenty of solutions before that. Simple is just move D loop up instead of rest down (Although, I'm forgetting if you have a low or a high miss).

On most of my bows I run a hamskea, completely behind the shelf. On the one bow I use a QAD, I have the rest set such that when the rest falls flat out of the way of the arrow, it is parallel to and just above the shelf. Loop is set accordingly to get a 90 degree arrow.

If I ran into issues not being able to move the rest, then I'd fix vertical by twisting / untwisting cables.

 

[Don Qui Puncher]

I think there’s a way to adjust the travel of the QAD drop, but I never bothered I just put mole skin on the shelf. Definitely looks way high, the above advice is spot on, level bow, level arrow through the center of berger and tie in nock point. That should get you where you want to be. I’m surprised the shop didn’t pick up on your rest/nock point. I also only bareshaft tune get it where I want screw on broadhead and it’s good 80% of the time, sometimes I do one click here or there on the rest to be perfect.

 

[jmez]

Can you move the rest back? It doesn't have to be over the shelf. Just set it back so it doesn't come down on the shelf.

 

[180splitg3]

Can you move the rest back? It doesn't have to be over the shelf. Just set it back so it doesn't come down on the shelf.

I don't think I can move it back far enough due to the length of the launcher...

 

[180splitg3]

Got my d-loop redone. Arrow is now centered on the berger holes. Going to start tinkering again today. I'll let you know how it goes but thanks again for the help so far

 

[180splitg3]

Bow is shooting well finally. I think it's spot on. Bare shafts, broadheads and field points are hitting together at 40. Going to continue to fine tune at longer ranges but finally feeling good about things. Arrow is basically at a 90 degree angle to the string and just slightly higher than centered on the berger holes. I appreciate all the help and advice as always - thank you to all who contributed!