Base to ogive inconsistency?

Wrench

WKR
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Most digital calipers go to .0005 resolution. (1/2 a thou). And I’m using LE Wilson Chamber Type on some.


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That's one too many zeros....That's why I asked. Just a few degrees in temp difference is equal to a quarter thousandth....or more.
 

4ester

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That's one too many zeros....That's why I asked. Just a few degrees in temp difference is equal to a quarter thousandth....or more.

Sorry but….. it’s not too many zeros. The ten thousandths column is rounded to a zero or 5 obviously, but my number of zeros is spot on and displayed on any good quality caliper (regardless of tolerance stacking)

So .0005 is half a thousandth, technically 5 ten thousandths.

.001 is one thousandth, or 10 ten thousandths correct?

I’m no machinest…… but measured enough rounds to know which column.

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cornfedkiller
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Start at minute 3

Ok actually I'm not sure if I can do that. I just went to set my die up that way, screwed it down until I got the piston to contact it with a slight cam-over, and then remembered why I didnt do it that way before..

When I go to put the bullet in, the little sleeve stops right here and prevents the piston from raising any further... These are hornady dies, if that makes a difference.

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Well there is to many variables for me to help with why its doing that for ya.
But id place my bets that is the answer to your original question.

But if you were happy with the ammo you were building before id set it back up like that and never think about it again until you are no long achieving results acceptable to you.

The only real thing to consider is if they get long enough on the long side to not want to chamber and or stick in the lands.

I did that once and the bullet pulled and all the powder went into my action.
 
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cornfedkiller
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Well there is to many variables for me to help with why its doing that for ya.
But id place my bets that is the answer to your original question.

But if you were happy with the ammo you were building before id set it back up like that and never think about it again until you are no long achieving results acceptable to you.

The only real thing to consider is if they get long enough on the long side to not want to chamber and or stick in the lands.

I did that once and the bullet pulled and all the powder went into my action.

Yep that makes perfect sense. And I have been making sure they arent too long.. If I check one and its too long, I set it off to the side and then push them all in a little deeper at the end.

A buddy of mine has the same hornady dies..I'll ask him if his are the same way bc it sure seems like they should be like the video you linked!
 
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Does it still do that with the seating stem removed? Does it do it with the resizing die, too (meaning you can't full length resize)?
 
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cornfedkiller
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Does it still do that with the seating stem removed? Does it do it with the resizing die, too (meaning you can't full length resize)?

Nope the resizing die is a full works with a full stroke. I thought maybe I was doing something wrong but just watched hornady's setup video and I have it exactly like they say to do it.

 

4ester

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I believe you can only do the cam over method on Redding Competition Dies.

Most every set of cheaper dies have a crimp ring that you will hit long before it cams over. But personally I have still not had any issues getting these dies to be very consistent in seating depth.

Being your using Hornady dies and Hornady bullets, I’d assume they would build their seating stems to accommodate their own bullet designs, or at least make an ELDX Stem.

I’m leaning towards variance in the bullets.


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zrodwyo

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I struggled with the same thing and found it to be related to neck tension. If I take 20 pieces of annealed ADG brass I’ll have 5 or 6 pieces where the bullet seats with very little force and I’ll often get a very different CBTO measurement.

I get around this issue by identifying these pieces of brass that have neck tension issues with an expander mandrel. You can feel the mandrel slides in the case neck a little easier than it should. I then resize the brass using neck sizing bushing smaller than I normally use and follow up with an expander mandrel.

Solves the problem for me.
 
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cornfedkiller
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Try it out. I found that sorting them they are much more consistent when seating, they will all be within .001 give or take. Sort them into batches, write down which ones are which.

Will do, but I'm struggling with why that would matter.. measuring the BTO would tell me if some bullets are longer or shorter than others, right? If my brass is in the piston and the bullet is being pressed down from the top, it shouldnt make much difference if one bullet is longer than another one - there would just be more or less of the rest of the bullet in the brass - right?

Not arguing that it wont help since you guys have obviously seen a difference, I just don't conceptually get why it would.
 

4ester

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Will do, but I'm struggling with why that would matter.. measuring the BTO would tell me if some bullets are longer or shorter than others, right? If my brass is in the piston and the bullet is being pressed down from the top, it shouldnt make much difference if one bullet is longer than another one - there would just be more or less of the rest of the bullet in the brass - right?

Not arguing that it wont help since you guys have obviously seen a difference, I just don't conceptually get why it would.
LAHunter said the issue above……

The seating die touches the bullet in a different place then your comparator. The variation is in mostly the nose (regardless of BTO). I’ve seen huge variations in this area with red and black boxes, and they don’t seem to care either.

Running a mandrel may help a little, as you will get more uniform neck tension. Or annealing if you want to go down that rabbit hole. But more then likely this isn’t the issue.


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