Best knives for gutting and skinning

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Nov 15, 2021
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That is great. It is truly a dying skill set. If that is the case then I would suggest going with a fixed blade knife like some have already suggested. I also would suggest focusing on a high carbon tool steel (1095, 52100, O1, A2) or a low Vanadium Stainless (LC200N, N690, AEB-L, 14C28N). I arranged those steels in order of edge retention, but note the lower they are on edge retention scale the easier they are to sharpen. All on the list are pretty easy to sharpen though, even for a novice. All on this list have reasonable edge retention for the task at hand. All of these steels can get razor sharp with minor sharpening equipment. I like carbon steels but I can understand that most people don't like dealing with rust. A2 is a favorite of mine, but AEB-L is remarkably tough and gets stupid sharp.

For new sharpeners I recommend diamond stones. They cut fast and leave a "toothy" edge that works well for skinning and other outdoor chores. If you want to dip just one toe in, I like the DMT diasharp credit card hones (Coarse, Fine, Extra Fine for $25). I keep these in my pack for in field touch ups, but they are very serviceable. If you enjoy sharpening you can get better/faster results going with a full size bench stone.

I’ll look at the stones you mentioned but I’ve seen a lot of the bench sharpeners… how well do these work? I want something that will get my knife to as sharp as it can without it being to difficult


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May 25, 2022
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The credit card sized hones work equally well as their larger counterparts, but they are little slower due to their size. You will need to make more passes, and go slower because you are holding them closer to your hands. They are pretty good to take in the field though. I use 8"x3" DMT bench stones for my knives/tools and finishing with either extra fine or extra extra fine stones the blades are razor sharp. I find that sometimes just finishing with the Fine stone give a nice toothier edge that works well and is very serviceable as well. With those steels I've listed you could even sharpen using Wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface like a chunk of old granite.
 

Weldor

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Slugz

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I like both the OE and Havalon due to their ease of use.

For what feels the best in hand = Buck113
 
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Around $100, Benchmade Steep Country. It’ll do everything you need. I have an altitude and I still prefer the steep country.
I am a huge benchmade fanboy. I agree, the steep country fits the bill. I am sending off 4 knives today for their free sharpening service.
 

sndmn11

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You will get exponentially better results from the newer steels. Huge bang for your buck from any of the mules coming out. https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/category/mule-team

I think you are trashing your $ on forged steel knives. Cruwear, s90v, m4, magnacut, etc, run circles around most of the steels mentioned.

A havalon to pair with a fixed blade is great.

For sharpening I use a work sharp blade grinding attachment and "hard to sharpen" doesn't exist.

If the mules catch your eye but you are worried about handles,/sheaths send me a PM.
 
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May 25, 2022
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You will get exponentially better results from the newer steels. Huge bang for your buck from any of the mules coming out. https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/category/mule-team

I think you are trashing your $ on forged steel knives. Cruwear, s90v, m4, magnacut, etc, run circles around most of the steels mentioned.

A havalon to pair with a fixed blade is great.

For sharpening I use a work sharp blade grinding attachment and "hard to sharpen" doesn't exist.

If the mules catch your eye but you are worried about handles,/sheaths send me a PM.
Definitely some truth here. I am a proponent of 3v, 4v, and M4 myself to name a few favorites. Once sharp these edges will last and last. If you have zero sharpening experience diamond sharpening set ups will help with abrading these high vanadium carbide steels, but be prepared for a more steep learning curve. They will take longer to sharpen but are worth it in the end.
 

VernAK

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I've used, tried and owned many knives over the past seventy years and have settled on the Scandinavian made knives [Mora and Helle] for great quality that doesn't break the bank. I think John Havard of this site still sells the Helle knives.
 

sndmn11

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Definitely some truth here. I am a proponent of 3v, 4v, and M4 myself to name a few favorites. Once sharp these edges will last and last. If you have zero sharpening experience diamond sharpening set ups will help with abrading these high vanadium carbide steels, but be prepared for a more steep learning curve. They will take longer to sharpen but are worth it in the end.

That is why I like that work sharp bench grinder thing. I can set a wide bevel and then it is easy to maintain an edge as I work on animal or at home. With top of the line steel, "sharpening" isn't really needed past the first set of the bevel and apex and I think that should have a ton of value for the sharpening adverse folks. Just hone and polish.
 
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That is why I like that work sharp bench grinder thing. I can set a wide bevel and then it is easy to maintain an edge as I work on animal or at home. With top of the line steel, "sharpening" isn't really needed past the first set of the bevel and apex and I think that should have a ton of value for the sharpening adverse folks. Just hone and polish.
A 1"x30" belt grinder is pretty indispensable as well. I use one in a similar fashion as you noted. You can sharpen a knife really fast, but I feel like you could destroy one equally quickly if you don't know what you're doing.
 

Fatcamp

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At that budget I would suggest maybe an outdoor edge swing blade to serve both purposes:

My wife got me one of these. Kind of thought it was gimmicky, but it is actually a great knife.
 
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I've long lost track of how many deer I've gutted with a $35 lock blade. A 6'' semi-stiff curved Victorinox with do everything else you need and you'll have enough money left to by a steel and some beer.
 

Seeknelk

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I've used, tried and owned many knives over the past seventy years and have settled on the Scandinavian made knives [Mora and Helle] for great quality that doesn't break the bank. I think John Havard of this site still sells the Helle knives.
I picked up two Mora hunting knives and two fillet knives. They have really impressed me. Both the stainless and the carbon steel work very well. Cheap. Someday I'll scratch the super steel custom knives itch but I'll doubt they'll seriously outperform the Moras.
Also, for caping or skinning squirrels or yotes or around tough spots, I seriously recommend the cheap serrated skinning knife from Minnesota Trapline products. Crazy how well they work and just don't dull even cutting around antler bases and eye sockets and hitting more bone than ya know ya should. Small and super light.
 

TheGDog

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More expensive... but I've been really happy with my Argali - Carbon Knife. I'd say It's kinda like using a Havalon... but with a better overall shape and size. Easier to cut with overall I'd say.
 

Louro

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I'd go with the Outdoor Edge Swingblade and Havalon Piranta for the $100 budget you have. I own tons of knives from Kestrel's to Benchmade's to you name it etc. and that combo will do anything from doves to buffalo with ease. The "gutting" blade on the Swingblade is the most underrated blade on the market today. It makes all my cuts for skinning animals as well.
I ECO, ECO, this specially sense you want to skin squirrels and predator. When I'm skinning coyotes, racoons or other fur animals I Just replace the blade on the Havalon and carry on.
 

Scoot

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More expensive... but I've been really happy with my Argali - Carbon Knife. I'd say It's kinda like using a Havalon... but with a better overall shape and size. Easier to cut with overall I'd say.
Super impressive knife.
 
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