I've been shooting archery for about 20 years (but more so in my younger days). Lately, I've only shot my bow enough to be confident for hunting situations. I just bought a new bow and realized things have changed a lot and am getting into the idea of building my own arrows and setting up a bow for my brother to get into archery. I know this has been asked a lot, but what's a good "buy list" for immediately necessary things to build arrows (and what is good quality)? I'm thinking about a fletching rig, arrow squaring device/spinner, scale, etc. Not really looking for an arrow saw right now unless I can rig up my Dremel to work somehow.
Bow/Arrow building accessories...
- Thread starter rob86jeep
- Start date
I bought a Westin 8k saw which includes a spinner attachment. I was also able to easily rig up a squaring pad. So basically it does everything on one tool. I somehow got mine dirt cheap through Eders for about 140.00. Archerytalk has some diy saw ideas if you're not keen on spending that much.
A Bitzenburger will take care of the fletching. I use a fletcher made for Blazers, works fine, is slow, but probably won't work on other brands, however.
Plenty of digital scales on Amazon to choose from. I can't recall the brand I have but it was around 25 bucks and works fine.
A Bitzenburger will take care of the fletching. I use a fletcher made for Blazers, works fine, is slow, but probably won't work on other brands, however.
Plenty of digital scales on Amazon to choose from. I can't recall the brand I have but it was around 25 bucks and works fine.
Billy Goat
WKR
If I could do it over again I would have just gotten a bitz to start with. Plenty of other fletching jigs out there, but they have limitations. If you don't play with stuff and will only every shoot one vane/feather and the same off-set and helical you will be fine with something like an ez-fletch or a Bohning. If you like to play with different things you definitely want a bitz, or one of the fancier ones. I think the Bitzenburger is a really good all around jig. Lots of other options out there, and I have owned several of them. I do use an ex-fletch some putting feathers on my trad arrows, it's nice and fast for that, but if I choose one or would be the bitz. $93
I waited way too long to get an arrow saw. Can't do much building arrows without one. I'd run to the local shop to get my arrows cut. Just nice to have everything here. It's a necessity for tuning traditional arrows. $130+
A scale is useful but not a requirement unless it's accurate enough to pickup difference of a few tenths of a grain and you are going to match components up according to weight, like using your slightly lighter shafts with slightly heavier inserts or points. Which also is likely making that arrow dynamically weaker than the others. $25+
Spine tester, I use to use this all the time, not as much anymore. I use to index the spines, now I just nock tune. It's easier and I still had to do it after spine indexing.
Arrow squaring tool, I use one. I haven't seen a big difference with it. I think if you have a high quality saw set up correctly it's not as big of a deal. Easy enough to use I don't see why not. $40+
Might be you will get a lot of satisfaction out of it, maybe not. I think a bow press would be money better spent. Plenty of places will build you exactly what you want out of arrows now. Might be daunting to think of working on your own bow. It's not that hard and it's where you will really learn how things work on them. If you don't have a press best to find a good shop. If your only going to run blazer vanes just get a little Bohning Blazer helix jig ($45) and go to town. That worked for me for maybe a year before I was trying all kinds of other vanes.
Learn to shoot single spots instead of groups at one spot and you won't need to refletch your arrows.
I waited way too long to get an arrow saw. Can't do much building arrows without one. I'd run to the local shop to get my arrows cut. Just nice to have everything here. It's a necessity for tuning traditional arrows. $130+
A scale is useful but not a requirement unless it's accurate enough to pickup difference of a few tenths of a grain and you are going to match components up according to weight, like using your slightly lighter shafts with slightly heavier inserts or points. Which also is likely making that arrow dynamically weaker than the others. $25+
Spine tester, I use to use this all the time, not as much anymore. I use to index the spines, now I just nock tune. It's easier and I still had to do it after spine indexing.
Arrow squaring tool, I use one. I haven't seen a big difference with it. I think if you have a high quality saw set up correctly it's not as big of a deal. Easy enough to use I don't see why not. $40+
Might be you will get a lot of satisfaction out of it, maybe not. I think a bow press would be money better spent. Plenty of places will build you exactly what you want out of arrows now. Might be daunting to think of working on your own bow. It's not that hard and it's where you will really learn how things work on them. If you don't have a press best to find a good shop. If your only going to run blazer vanes just get a little Bohning Blazer helix jig ($45) and go to town. That worked for me for maybe a year before I was trying all kinds of other vanes.
Learn to shoot single spots instead of groups at one spot and you won't need to refletch your arrows.
WakePraySlay
Lil-Rokslider
Tools I have and arrow guide
- Thread Starter
- #5
Billy Goat
WKR
Buy both clamps if you go that route. You can use the same base with both.
WakePraySlay
Lil-Rokslider
Look through my arrow guide About shooting the bare shafts and seeing which way your arrow spins. It’s personal preference but IMO every little bit helps
- Thread Starter
- #8
I glanced through it already but I'll need some time without kids running around me to really sit down and read it. Thanks for it though.
The best advice I can give is to buy the highest quality stuff you can afford. I went down the rabbit hole of building arrows and eventually got tired of issues and eventually pieces together the following:
Last Chance Cane Master pro with all 3 can configurations
Weston Arrow saw (it comes with rollers to spin arrows)
Arrow squaring tool (I think it’s a luminok )
SOS pads (for knocking the shine off of where I wrap my arrows)
With those three things, I can build my own from start to finish. It’s a rewarding feeling, and I have full control over how my arrows fly
Last Chance Cane Master pro with all 3 can configurations
Weston Arrow saw (it comes with rollers to spin arrows)
Arrow squaring tool (I think it’s a luminok )
SOS pads (for knocking the shine off of where I wrap my arrows)
With those three things, I can build my own from start to finish. It’s a rewarding feeling, and I have full control over how my arrows fly
- Thread Starter
- #10
Thanks for all the help so far, but I'm still stumped on one thing. I'm pretty set on the Bitzenburger jig, but can't decide between the straight or right helical clamp. I'm shooting a fairly heavy arrow and want to shoot out to 80 (or maybe 100 yards) with a fixed blade broadhead. Would you guys choose helical for that or not? I've heard they stabilize fixed blades better, but also heard that a properly tuned bow doesn't need it and if you're shooting distance then it creates too much drag. This is my last conundrum before buying a bunch of equipment.
Billy Goat
WKR
You could probably use a straight offset just fine. If using really big fixed blades probably need helical, if using 1.125-1" straight should be fine. I'm shooting qad Exodus on a 3" silent Knight and fusion q2 3" vanes with a strong helical. Can't remember if I tried them with straight fletch. Those are 3" × .45" vanes steering a 1.25" fixed blade. I haven't noticed any extra amount drag from the helical at distance. I don't think I can shoot straight and helical interchangeably at 80-90 yards, but I doubt it's much difference. Helical is definitely louder than a straight offset.
The way the bitz is set-up it's same jig just different clamp. So it's not the end of the world if you need to change, just get a different $33 clamp. Also seems the smaller the shaft the more difficult it is to get the helical on.
The way the bitz is set-up it's same jig just different clamp. So it's not the end of the world if you need to change, just get a different $33 clamp. Also seems the smaller the shaft the more difficult it is to get the helical on.
I'm pretty new to archery so might not be the best to give opinions but seemed to have gotten bit pretty hard by "the bug" lol. I don't have a fletching jig YET but I did pick up a cheap 3d printed squaring tool and I built an inexpensive arrow saw using a mini chop saw from harbor freight that works awesome!
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