Bow help..

PredatoronthePrairie

Lil-Rokslider
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Hey fellas. Hoping someone can share some info.

Long time bow hunter, dont claim to be a skilled archer. Just kill shit that I can get to within 60 of.

The last couple of years any bow shop I've went to has been a disaster so I started taking the process into my own hands.

Shoot a single cam mathews switchback, 32 1/2 in arrow tip to tip, 63# draw. Easton axis 340. With a 125 vpa that puts me right around 475grains. She ain't fast, but shes quite and kills.

Started playing around with flteching my own arrows and paper tuning.

Was tearing low left consistantly. Got it to the point I'm getting clean bullet hole tears.

Problem is, and maybe there isn't one. Is the the housing on my smack down rest is as far to the right as it will go.
20210825_152834.jpg
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Everything looks to be fairly in line.

Is this theresult of my arrows being underspined? Only recently went to a 125 head from 100. But the info I looked at said I should be fine making the step up.

Or is there something else going on that may be causing the issue? It dosnt look like my knocking point has moved.

One other thing of note i find strange. Is my site housing has to be set about as low as it can go as well.

20210825_153926.jpg

Any help appreciated.
 
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Shadowcaster

Lil-Rokslider
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Jul 31, 2021
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104
First off, what's your draw length and insert weight? 32.5 seems awful long for your arrows, unless you've got a crazy long DL.
 
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PredatoronthePrairie

PredatoronthePrairie

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Draw length is about 29.5
Believe the insterts are like 12.5

Should mention, arrow length is with nock and tip.
Cut length is 30.25 carbon to carbon
 

Shadowcaster

Lil-Rokslider
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Draw length is about 29.5
Believe the insters are like 12.5
I'd say you're definitely underspined. May I ask, is there a reason you never had the arrows cut? I'd bet that if you cut them to where the end of the carbon is on top of your riser shelf you'd be okay. Not saying that's your issue, but it's a consideration.
 
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BRoth82

WKR
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Jul 9, 2019
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Take a picture of an arrow nocked. Try to line the string up with the center of your limbs, then look down your arrow. Is the tip inline with the nock or is it way to one side? You may have to yoke tune if it's off to one side, the other question is how old is your string?
 
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PredatoronthePrairie

PredatoronthePrairie

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Thz, had considered going to a 300axis. But fear adding much more weight that what little speed I have will drop out the bottom and I'd be lobbing arrows.
 
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PredatoronthePrairie

PredatoronthePrairie

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String was put on new 2 a year ago.

And might shown my ignorance, but didnt think on a single cam there were any yokes to tune.
 
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Yoke tuning should allow you to move your rest back closer to recommended centershot (13/16") and still get bullet holes through paper. Add twists to the left leg of the static yoke attached to the upper axle and remove an equal number of twists from the right leg to adjust the lean of the idler wheel.
 
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PredatoronthePrairie

PredatoronthePrairie

Lil-Rokslider
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Messages
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Take a picture of an arrow nocked. Try to line the string up with the center of your limbs, then look down your arrow. Is the tip inline with the nock or is it way to one side? You may have to yoke tune if it's off to one side, the other question is how old is your string?

Hope this can help. Not the best quality try to hold things steady free hand.
20210825_155512.jpg
20210825_155553.jpg
 

Shadowcaster

Lil-Rokslider
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Messages
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I ran the numbers through qspine(highly recommend it btw) and you can see you're pretty close to optimum, a shade bit underspined. If you can, post a pic of the arrow on the rest at full draw. I'm willing to bet youd be able to trim an inch.
 

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BRoth82

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That arrow looks good to me, I guess if you're getting bullet holes I wouldn't worry too much about the rest. As far as the sight goes, depending on how much you shoot the string could have streched a bit. I know mine did that after about 400 arrows or so, I kept having to lower my sight, took it to a bow shop and they tightened the string by adding twists and got everything back in spec. haven't had a problem since.
 

Rob5589

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Not familiar with your bow but, I agree with MM. I would check for idler lean at rest and full draw. I had the same issues with a single cam PSE and could not get it right until I built a draw board and saw how much lean the idler had.
 

bwhtr26

FNG
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Jul 31, 2023
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does anyone know of a step by step type of guide for the mathews single cam bows. i have. a switchback and z7 and would like to have a better method than hit or miss as far as steps. thanks
 
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does anyone know of a step by step type of guide for the mathews single cam bows. i have. a switchback and z7 and would like to have a better method than hit or miss as far as steps. thanks
Here are the steps I would take to set up and tune a single cam bow:
  1. Fully tighten both limb bolts then measure draw weight (DW) and axle-to-axle (ATA) length. Adjust string/cable twists per the chart below to get DW within ≈2 lbs of spec and ATA within ≈1/4".
  2. Adjust rest windage to 13/16" centershot (horizontal distance from inside of riser to centerline of arrow).
  3. Put the bow in a vise with the string perfectly vertical (plumb). Nock an arrow and raise the rest fork/cradle. Adjust rest elevation and d-loop location to get the arrow running level through the middle to upper half of the Berger hole (threaded hole in the riser for mounting a rest).
  4. Set/check rest timing (if you're using a dropaway rest).
  5. Check for vane contact. Apply a tattletale substance (e.g., lipstick, chalk, spray foot powder) to the edges of the vanes then shoot a few arrows checking for marks on the rest and cable in between shots. If there are signs of vane contact, try rotating the nock to reposition the vanes. If you can't eliminate contact by rotating the nock, switch to lower profile vanes.
  6. Begin tuning using your preferred method and make adjustments as needed per the charts below. Compared to today's dual cam bows, Mathews Solocam models have a limited number of knobs you can turn for tuning purposes. Some of the adjustment methods listed on the Gold Tip charts below don't apply to your bow (i.e., cam sync, cable guard adjustment, cam shimming). For tuning in the vertical direction, I would adjust cam timing via string/cable twists to get close then fine tune with rest elevation and/or d-loop location. For horizontal tuning, try adjusting idler wheel yoke twists first then rest windage.
Mathews Tuning Chart.jpg
Screenshot_20210219-073524.png
Screenshot_20210219-073736.png
 
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