Bowhunting turkey advice needed

[Junibravo]

With deer season over, i am looking forward to turkey hunting. I am exclusively a bow hunter (for reasons too complicated to list here). I shoot a Hoyt RX4 65# 29in draw length with 530g 27.5inch arrows with 125g broadheads. I also have 29inch easton 6.5 carbon 340 spine laying around.
I have tried bow hunting turkey in the past with no luck and i would appreciate any tips or advice that others can give me.
Anything from broadheads, bow set up, blind set up vs ghillie suit.
I am a saddle/one stick hunter and am particularly curious if anyone bowhunts turkey from trees?
The couple of attempts i have made at turkey has been from tree stands during past deer seasons and they did not seem to notice me until an arrow clipped their feathers.

 

[Backpack Hunter]

Big cut mechanicals, or chopping the head off both work equally well. There is not much difference in a gun and bow set up, but it is much easier to get drawn with a blind vs. in the open...much easier. I don't have any experience hunting turkeys from a tree.

Esse quam videri

 

[elkguide]

I am a fixed blade broadhead hunter EXCEPT for turkeys. I use a use mechanicals. I hunt out of pop up blind.

 

[Marble]

I've had equal success in a blind or running and gunning. Never in a tree stand.

I'm set up ambushes. Areas of natural funnels where I know they move through.

I'll find one gobbling in the afternoon and sneak in and spot and stalk.

Or just call them in.

With my bow I aim for center mass and prefer a big mechanical.

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[MattB]

I swear by Vortex 125. 2 3/4" for turkeys, but any big cut MBH will improve your likelihood of recovery. I prefer using a blind.

 

[MattB]

I swear by Vortex 125. 2 3/4" for turkeys, but any big cut MBH will improve your likelihood of recovery. I prefer using a blind.

 

[JeffRaines]

What I wish they’d develop is a lightweight pop up blind. Something you could strap to your back, go stalk in and then toss up at the last minute. Wouldn’t need to be particularly huge, and wouldn’t need to be made of heavyweight materials as it wouldn’t be designed to sit out and brush in like a typical blind. Retractable see-through mesh windows on all 4 sides so you could pick the side you wanted to shoot from and keep yourself concealed. Get to full draw before he walks in front of your shooting window then whack.

This would be the ultimate turkey hunters tool IMO - especially bow hunters. I’m sure other hunters could probably make use of it as well.

Edit: after making this post I found the Primos Two panel and three panel stakeout blinds. They’re not quite what I was describing, but I think I may give them a shot this coming season. 8lbs for the 3 panel which isn’t super light, but it’s not beyond what I’m capable of carrying either.

 

[Junibravo]

I am undecided between mechanical heads and guillotine heads.
Does anyone prefer one over the other and why?

 

[Jbehredt]

I use a blind 90% of the time. Grim reaper whitetail specials make a big 2” 3 blade hole. And if you’ve clipped feathers more than once you’ve had some luck. To that I’d add you need to REALLY pick a spot on a Turkey. Pick a feather. A single feather as your spot. If you shoot at the bird you’ll end up with just feathers more often than not.

 

[Jbehredt]

I am undecided between mechanical heads and guillotine heads.
Does anyone prefer one over the other and why?

Guillotine heads are cumbersome. They’re not gonna slip neatly into your current quiver…

 

[JeffRaines]

Guillotine heads are cumbersome. They’re not gonna slip neatly into your current quiver…

not only that, good luck trying to tune that thing to fly more than 20-30 yards. It’s possible for sure - but I’d rather use a big mech and be able to take a long shot if needed.

 

[packer58]

All good advice here, definitely large mechanical heads and a ground blind is nice. Also take a look at a turkey's anatomy.........might surprise you where your pin should be.....

 

[Marble]

What I wish they’d develop is a lightweight pop up blind. Something you could strap to your back, go stalk in and then toss up at the last minute. Wouldn’t need to be particularly huge, and wouldn’t need to be made of heavyweight materials as it wouldn’t be designed to sit out and brush in like a typical blind. Retractable see-through mesh windows on all 4 sides so you could pick the side you wanted to shoot from and keep yourself concealed. Get to full draw before he walks in front of your shooting window then whack.

This would be the ultimate turkey hunters tool IMO - especially bow hunters. I’m sure other hunters could probably make use of it as well.

Edit: after making this post I found the Primos Two panel and three panel stakeout blinds. They’re not quite what I was describing, but I think I may give them a shot this coming season. 8lbs for the 3 panel which isn’t super light, but it’s not beyond what I’m capable of carrying either.

I carry one of those camo nets that is heavy string with pieces of various plastic type material. Been using it for over 30 years. There are holes all through it from shooting stuff through it. I can pull it out and get it up with a minute or two. It's about 10x6.

I have another that's 20x 8ish. Haven't used it yet. Lighter and works like a blind. Although I'm not as hidden as in a blind.

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[Marble]

I am undecided between mechanical heads and guillotine heads.
Does anyone prefer one over the other and why?

I like the regular mechanical heads. Similarto the rage. I have a bigger target to aim for at more angles .

I'm not sure how effective the guillotine heads would penetrate through the body.

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[fatlander]

I’ve killed quite a few turkeys bow hunting various ways and seasons.

For your question, your best bet is to buy the absolute best decoys you can afford. Read that as, a Dave smith 3/4 strut Jake and then whatever else you can afford. Next would be to hunt out of a blind. Third, shoot big mechs. Head loppers are cool, but they’re finicky, don’t fit in quivers, and require special shafts.

Figure out where your birds want to be everyday and be there an hour and half to two hours before shooting light. Use a green or red light for walking Set your decoys within 10 yards of your blind. Have your back to the sun and wear all black inside the blind. Don’t overcall, especially if you can’t call.


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[JeffRaines]

I carry one of those camo nets that is heavy string with pieces of various plastic type material. Been using it for over 30 years. There are holes all through it from shooting stuff through it. I can pull it out and get it up with a minute or two. It's about 10x6.

I have another that's 20x 8ish. Haven't used it yet. Lighter and works like a blind. Although I'm not as hidden as in a blind.

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Got pictures? Those sound interesting.

Head loppers are cool, but they’re finicky, don’t fit in quivers, and require special shafts.

Yeah, when I mentioned that above I didn’t mention that you’re gonna need special arrow for them because obviously the broad head can’t be anywhere near the shelf at full draw, then you’re gonna need to tune your bow to those longer arrows and broadheads. If a guy was dedicated to using those heads it would probably be worth buying a dedicated bow for them… and yeah, they’re not fitting in the quiver so there goes running and gunning easily.

For a guy who has a spot where he sits in a blind with a dedicated turkey bow, I could see the guillotine heads being a viable option. For the guys who hunt public and/or “run and gun”, you’re better off with a big mech.

 

[Marble]

Got pictures? Those sound interesting.


Yeah, when I mentioned that above I didn’t mention that you’re gonna need special arrow for them because obviously the broad head can’t be anywhere near the shelf at full draw, then you’re gonna need to tune your bow to those longer arrows and broadheads. If a guy was dedicated to using those heads it would probably be worth buying a dedicated bow for them… and yeah, they’re not fitting in the quiver so there goes running and gunning easily.

For a guy who has a spot where he sits in a blind with a dedicated turkey bow, I could see the guillotine heads being a viable option. For the guys who hunt public and/or “run and gun”, you’re better off with a big mech.

It looks like this. The stuff pretty much sticks to any branches pretty dang easy.

I've actually thrown it directly over myself or my gun, just to break up my outline. Kind of looks like one of those Gilly Suits. I might take the big one I just bought and cut it in half so. But it's also big enough I could probably set it up with three sides of the location was right.

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[doc holiday13]

With deer season over, i am looking forward to turkey hunting. I am exclusively a bow hunter (for reasons too complicated to list here). I shoot a Hoyt RX4 65# 29in draw length with 530g 27.5inch arrows with 125g broadheads. I also have 29inch easton 6.5 carbon 340 spine laying around.
I have tried bow hunting turkey in the past with no luck and i would appreciate any tips or advice that others can give me.
Anything from broadheads, bow set up, blind set up vs ghillie suit.
I am a saddle/one stick hunter and am particularly curious if anyone bowhunts turkey from trees?
The couple of attempts i have made at turkey has been from tree stands during past deer seasons and they did not seem to notice me until an arrow clipped their feathers.

Rage Chisel tip mechanicals and a portable blind
I've killed 1 bird with a bow but I wasn't turkey hunting at the moment, but i keep a rage chisel tip in my quiver for such moments

 

[ewescue]

Quality decoys. Keeps bird interested for much longer.
Quality decoys, use a blind, scout beforehand and set up in a natural travel or strutting area. Call every once in awhile and shoot the tom at 10 yards. If you scout enough beforehand it isn't incredibly challenging, while it is incredibly fun.

 

[NYyotekiller]

I have exclusively hunted turkeys with the stick and string now for going on 15 years so I'll throw my $.02 in.

• Pre-season scouting. I use trail cameras to find the mature birds roosting and travel patterns.
• Low poundage bow setup. I have a dedicated 60# bow that shoots both mechanical (NAP Gobbler Getter), as well as guillotine style (Magnus Bullheads) accurately. Ease of draw to minimize movement is also crucial.
• Quality decoys. To get birds close and to keep them close a quality decoy like Dave Smith Decoys are also key. I use a 3/4 Strut Jake, and a feeding hen. I place them at about ten yards from the blind.
• Minimal calling. If you have the birds patterned then the least bit of calling is all that you should need. Sometimes, no calling is the best if you have a high number of hens around.