Bowtech limb swap

[180splitg3]

Hello - I have a Bowtech reign 6 and have been thinking about a limb swap. My current bow is a 60# bow and I am wishing I would have purchased a 70# bow so that I could move up to 65# or so. I was having some shoulder problems when I bought it and didn't see myself needing a 70# bow at the time (not the right move). I shot a 70# bow for about ten years and it had a really harsh draw cycle which was part of the reason I went away from it. Does anyone know how much new limbs would cost? I have no idea how much bow limbs are and it might not be worth it but wanted to ask here before I contact my pro shop. I am currently shooting 460 grain arrows at 265 fps and would like to gain some speed and KE without losing arrow weight. Thanks!

 

[westonadkins]

I looked into this as a local shop had a 60# one on a heck of a sale, but I wanted a 70# bow.

It was like $230 or something like that. The Bowtech rep said they have to swap something in addition to the limbs which adds to the cost, though I didn't ask what that component was. I was surprised how much it was.


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[westonadkins]

That was for an SR6 though which might be different..


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[NYyotekiller]

You can typically find different limbs for the Reign 6 over on Archerytalk for around $100 if you look hard enough. You might even be able to find someone that would trade you straight up.

Not sure what a pro shop would charge you to swap them out for you if you don’t have a bow press but it shouldn’t be much.

 

[stonewall]

Yes. Probably a deal on AT if you keep looking. New from shop probably a couple hundred as already stated

 

[180splitg3]

OK, thanks for the info guys. I'll look at joining the AT forum. I wonder if I might be better off just trading the whole bow in for a used reign 6 with 70# limbs - I have never had a used bow so that makes me a little nervous. Or, I'll just keep my current bow until it's time to trade up...

 

[180splitg3]

So - I found some limbs on ebay. There are two sets and cost anywhere from $100-$150. One set has a deflection of 202 and the other has a deflection of 231. Can anyone give me the basic explanation of what the difference between the two is? I'm assuming the 202 is stiffer?

 

[Billy Goat]

So - I found some limbs on ebay. There are two sets and cost anywhere from $100-$150. One set has a deflection of 202 and the other has a deflection of 231. Can anyone give me the basic explanation of what the difference between the two is? I'm assuming the 202 is stiffer?

The higher the deflection number the higher the poundage will be. I don't have a chart to cross reference the bowtech #'s to a poundage.

If I had to guess I'd think there is around 10# difference in those. The 231 being stiffer.

There is a chance the deflection might be marked on your limbs if you were to disassemble your bow to give you a reference.

 

[Billy Goat]

Here you go

231 would give you 70#.

 

[fatlander]

IIRC, will need a different roller guard too. They’re not the same from 60 to 70# bows.


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[180splitg3]

I appreciate the limb info guys! Is it possible to increase poundage through a string & cable change? My bow is due for some replacement strings and cables. It is maxed out at 58# currently and it would be nice to pick up a a few more lbs/fps without doing a limb swap...

 

[Billy Goat]

I appreciate the limb info guys! Is it possible to increase poundage through a string & cable change? My bow is due for some replacement strings and cables. It is maxed out at 58# currently and it would be nice to pick up a a few more lbs/fps without doing a limb swap...

If it's bottomed out and currently at 58# it's likely out of spec, if it's a 60# bow. Most will hit a few pounds high and still be in spec. I wouldn't try gaining much more than that, you could, but it wouldn't be helpful overall. These bows are designed to operate within limits, I'd stay within those limits.

 

[180splitg3]

If it's bottomed out and currently at 58# it's likely out of spec, if it's a 60# bow. Most will hit a few pounds high and still be in spec. I wouldn't try gaining much more than that, you could, but it wouldn't be helpful overall. These bows are designed to operate within limits, I'd stay within those limits.

So, when you say it's out of spec, what do I need to do to get corrected?

 

[Billy Goat]

So, when you say it's out of spec, what do I need to do to get corrected?

Start by checking your axle to axle, then your brace height and cam timing. I would also check the draw length. See if it's within the factory specs. I suspect your cable(s) have stretched and decreased your poundage. How many shots do you have on the set?

I think you will be able to add a few twists to the cables and bring your poundage up, but don't get carried away with it. Maybe 2 twists on the cables end opposite the yoke. Then check everything again.

 

[180splitg3]

Start by checking your axle to axle, then your brace height and cam timing. I would also check the draw length. See if it's within the factory specs. I suspect your cable(s) have stretched and decreased your poundage. How many shots do you have on the set?

I think you will be able to add a few twists to the cables and bring your poundage up, but don't get carried away with it. Maybe 2 twists on the cables end opposite the yoke. Then check everything again.

Thank you. I really don't know how many shots are on the bow. I purchased it in November of 2017. I typically start shooting hard around August 1st and shoot 20 arrows a day, every day until November 1st or until I tag out. I typically start shooting for turkey season about March 15th and shoot until I tag out or season ends. I'm not sure if that's considered a lot of shooting or not, honestly.

Hopefully my bow shop will check the specs for me as I don't have a bow press. The ATA should be no problem to measure. Is it worth twisting up the cables or should I just replace them? The factory bow cables and string are on the bow. I don't know what type of quality they were to begin with...

 

[Billy Goat]

Thank you. I really don't know how many shots are on the bow. I purchased it in November of 2017. I typically start shooting hard around August 1st and shoot 20 arrows a day, every day until November 1st or until I tag out. I typically start shooting for turkey season about March 15th and shoot until I tag out or season ends. I'm not sure if that's considered a lot of shooting or not, honestly.

Hopefully my bow shop will check the specs for me as I don't have a bow press. The ATA should be no problem to measure. Is it worth twisting up the cables or should I just replace them? The factory bow cables and string are on the bow. I don't know what type of quality they were to begin with...

If you determine that they have started to stretch I would replace them. Has the bow lost poundage or was it always 58# maxed?

 

[180splitg3]

If you determine that they have started to stretch I would replace them. Has the bow lost poundage or was it always 58# maxed?

I don't think I ever measured the poundage when I purchased it. I have noticed that the peep has started to turn a little more often lately as well. I measured the ATA with a tape measure and I'm coming up with 32.75 - factory specs are 32.625. Assuming I measured correctly I'm an 1/8" long - seems insignificant to me but maybe it is worth 2-3 lbs.

 

[Billy Goat]

I don't think I ever measured the poundage when I purchased it. I have noticed that the peep has started to turn a little more often lately as well. I measured the ATA with a tape measure and I'm coming up with 32.75 - factory specs are 32.625. Assuming I measured correctly I'm an 1/8" long - seems insignificant to me but maybe it is worth 2-3 lbs.

That's not out far enough to worry about, has the draw length changed any? If your cables stretched it would length the axle to axle and shorten the draw a little. Always nice to have a baseline on where a bow is when you first get it in tune.

All in all I think it's probably worth putting new set of string/cables on it. Could be it never hit the 60#, I doubt it tho.

 

[180splitg3]

Thanks Billy Goat. I have been looking at twisted x, catfish customs and hogwire strings.

Does anyone have experience with strings & cables from these suppliers or recommendations for other string builders? My last bow was a diamond marquis and I shot the stock strings for almost 9 years - not sure how I got by with that!

 

[Billy Goat]

I like 452x for string material. I can't tell you much about any of the string makers anymore. I'd assume that most are pretty good. String materials have improved a good bit. Last set I had were from Rogue, they were new on a bow I purchased used. Once you got used to the twist being backwards it was fine. No issues with them.