Broadhead accuracy

[GeauxBackcountry]

New guy to bowhunting/archery (less than 2 years) and only done whitetail hunting in the south. I am trying to get an arrow build for some western hunts next year. Been reading some and had a question about fixed blade broadheads and there effect on arrow flight.
In terms of solid broadheads vs vented, am I correct that a vented broadhead would fly more accurate with longer shots?
Same scenario, is accuracy affected by 2 blade design vs 3 or 4 blade design with the small "bleeder blades"?

If anyone cares to add anything about the braodheads I am looking at, it is Kudu, Magnus Stinger and Iron Will. I would say that I am leaning more towards the Magnus as I am not confident in my ability to sharpen the Kudu well and not sure if I can justify dropping the change on Iron Will brand.

 

[KyleR1985]

In order of importance IMO - Your form, Bow tune, arrow tune, and precision of broadhead machine work are what lead to consistent results with broadheads at distances beyond 30 yards.

If your stuff is in order, you can get most broadheads to fly well. If not, no broadhead will correct for it. Smaller ones will obviously be more forgiving of issues in any of the above.

I’m making an assumption that your intention is to be able to make longer shots out west with more confidence.

if so, I’d save your money on the broadhead hunt right now, and spend your time and focus on getting bow tuned, and properly spined and tuned arrows, and developing consistent form.

From personal experience, doing these things shrank a very inconsistent 12”+ group at 75 yards to a <6” group regardless of the broadhead I screwed on.(under ideal conditions for sure)


I have shot both the iron wills and Magnus stingers with comparable results. I have not shot the Kudu.

 

[dkime]

New guy to bowhunting/archery (less than 2 years) and only done whitetail hunting in the south. I am trying to get an arrow build for some western hunts next year. Been reading some and had a question about fixed blade broadheads and there effect on arrow flight.
In terms of solid broadheads vs vented, am I correct that a vented broadhead would fly more accurate with longer shots?
Same scenario, is accuracy affected by 2 blade design vs 3 or 4 blade design with the small "bleeder blades"?

If anyone cares to add anything about the braodheads I am looking at, it is Kudu, Magnus Stinger and Iron Will. I would say that I am leaning more towards the Magnus as I am not confident in my ability to sharpen the Kudu well and not sure if I can justify dropping the change on Iron Will brand.

First question is kind of a subjective one, although in theory a vented head would be more forgiving to cross winds while incurring more drag. Truthfully it’s going to depend on whether you can shoot the difference or not. The most accurate head I own is a Day Six Evo, which is a solid head. Previous to shooting these it was a Solid Legend, which is a vented head. In my opinion profile lends itself more to accuracy rather than the vented or non-vented portion. It just depends on how loud of a head you prefer to shoot.

I kind of answered your question already in regard to 2,3,4 blade concepts. To me, they’re all accurate, but some are definitely more forgiving that others in terms of effort required to tune. Again, it’s about your ability to shoot and your ability to tune and what type of ideology you adhere to when it comes to hunting and what you expect of a broadhead. If you’re leaning toward a magnus stinger, i would encourage you to lean harder. I would venture to say those heads have killed more than either of the two heads you listed combined due to time in the market.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dadof3]

KyleR1985 is right. It’s a combination of a lot of factors that lead to accuracy. I have shot moose, kudu and an eland with a magnus stinger 2 of the three were clean passes including a quartering away kudu. The eland passed all the way through sticking out 2/3 of the way outside a 3’ wide chest cavity!! I get nothing but clean passes through whitetail and similarly sized game which leads to good blood trails.

 

[Kilboars]

As mentioned, how well tuned your bow is and how clean you're shot is will be the biggest factor in how well a fixed blade broad head shoots. Fixed blades act like vanes on the front of the arrow steering it. Larger fixed blades will catch the air more and want to steer the arrow more which is why many people go with 1" to 1-1/8" fixed blades.

I've shot Magnus Stringers myself and swear by them as long as everything goes perfect.

With that said I tune my bows to shoot fixed blade broad heads but still shoot two blade expandable Wasp Jak-Knife to hunt with. I find them much more forgiving when a shot is questionable, they fly like field points and no exposed blades to cut my strings or me with. But thats me

Good Luck on your search.

 

[nphunter]

The smaller the surface area the better there going to fly as long as they are built well and spin true. Magnus fly great, Solid, Iron Will or similar. Heads with larger surface area catch wind more and for that reason fly less accurate and are affected more by things like form. Things like large fletchings or something like a Quikspin really helps with fixed heads at longer distances. Another huge thing that has an effect on the flight is speed if your shooting over 285ish fps it can be very difficult to get fixed heads to fly well out past about 50 yards.

I agree with Kilboars about expandables, I've switched as well here in OR. I still keep my bow just as tuned and can shoot fixed out past 80 because I have to use them in ID still. I'm currently using IW100 solids for places I can't shoot expandables. If you have the energy and they are legal the expandables fly like darts and are very devastating to whatever they hit. Shooting my fixed heads I'm always stressed shooting 70 plus yards even though they mostly fly well I know if I mess up my form I could put one in the dirt and they get expensive really quick. When shooting my expandables I am just as confident with them hitting the mark as I am my field tips.

 

[Beendare]

Kyle nailed it in post 2.
Tuning perfect form and perfect arrow assembly are keys. Once tuned my compound shoots any one of three different 150 grain broadheads the exact same. That BH planing out of the bow is not a factor if the bow is tuned.

BH drag becomes a factor for me starting at appx. 60yds.....with a big VPA 150gf 3 blade on a 500 gr arrow. A big Broadhead on a very light arrow will have more effect.

typically on your average bowhunting shot, BH drag is insignificant.

EDIT; I should add that my big 150s are more affected by a strong cross wind...thus I also have a small 2 blade in my quiver for those occasions.

——-

 

[Red7006]

There's a couple differences with the vented and solid heads. The vented heads cut the wind better, but they also whistle in flight. The solid heads will plane a little more, but they are quieter in flight. I'm in agreement with others on here, you just have to tune to what you want to shoot.

 

[Spiral Horn]

Agree with much of the above - in general, fixed blade and expandable broadheads with a lot of surface area protruding from the ferrule just won‘t fly straight unless the bow is well-tuned. But broadhead designs also have a big impact on their tendency to plane. For fixed heads I’ve had very good luck tuning QAD Exodus on a variety of setups - they don’t protrude forward much beyond what a fixed point does with good manufacture’s QC, so they they usually have a very tight spin. I also like using a bit of helical on my fletching. Although this creates some drag it can have big impact on forgiveness and consistent hunting arrow flight. I’d much rather use a robust and consistent hunting arrow flying at 280fps than an expandable-tipped 3D arrow screaming at 310+.

Also, after decades of bowhunting all over the globe, I’d safely say that only ~2% of shots I’ve taken on game were 45 yards or beyond and we’ll more than 90% were were under 30.

My 2 cents

 

[Chazz]

Your bow must be tuned right to shoot any fixed blade head. I have had the best luck with kudu broad heads hitting exactly where my field points do without any kind of adjustment. I have shot many different broadheads but only shoot single bevel now. Will save you but when you hit some bone.

 

[Zac]

I would use the Magnus Hornet see razor instead of the Stinger. The shorter head is much more durable and flies better. That being said I would opt for the Kudu and the IW before using Magnus.

 

[Marble]

The kudu pint are easy to sharpen.