Broadhead choice

[buckchaser]

Good evening all. Canadian Rokslider here.

Although I've been shooting a compound bow for 20 years, I haven't done much actual bowhunting.

My first decade of bowhunting I was determined to hunt from the ground and stalk/stillhunt an animal. Anyone familiar with the "big woods" knows this is a formidable task. The last decade I have done far more of my hunting with a rifle and the bow has basically just been shot in my back yard for the joy of archery.

I've decided to place more emphasis on bowhunting moving forward, largely because my job now makes it difficult to get time off during our two week deer rifle season.

I've had my "vintage" 2008 Hoyt Vectrix XL tuned up and want to upgrade my broadheads. I know it is an older bow, but it's in good shape and I shoot it well enough for my needs. I'm not a "gear guy" for bowhunting - I already do enough of that for rifle hunting and other outdoor activities!

I'll be hunting whitetail deer and moose (calf tag this year). I would not shoot at a game animal beyond 40 meters and frankly would likely draw that line at 30 meters in field conditions.

I'm open to either mechanical or fixed blade - but I want something durable. Something that practice heads can be purchased for might be handy for practice too.

Thanks for any and all input.

 

[Apapro]

May I recommend the Kudu Broadhead contour plus. They fly exactly like field points and APA Archery in Biggar, Saskatchewan is a stocking dealer. Perfect for whitetails, moose, elk, bears. Crazy penetration even from light setups.

Give em a call. the heads are already North of the border!!

 

[Zac]

May I recommend the Kudu Broadhead contour plus. They fly exactly like field points and APA Archery in Biggar, Saskatchewan is a stocking dealer. Perfect for whitetails, moose, elk, bears. Crazy penetration even from light setups.

Give em a call. the heads are already North of the border!!

Great advice here, and props to you sir for limiting your shot distance, that is a very ethical decision. I don't dislike mechanicals, but since your shooting moose it kind of sticks you in the fixed blade space. There are alot of great heads but you can't go wrong with the Kudu. Great value direct to consumer head. If you want something better and twice the price the Day Six Evo, Ironwill, and Valkyrie Blood Eagle's are great options.

 

[TheViking]

Great advice here, and props to you sir for limiting your shot distance, that is a very ethical decision. I don't dislike mechanicals, but since your shooting moose it kind of sticks you in the fixed blade space. There are alot of great heads but you can't go wrong with the Kudu. Great value direct to consumer head. If you want something better and twice the price the Day Six Evo, Ironwill, and Valkyrie Blood Eagle's are great options.

Not trying to argue, why do you think the Day Six is better than the Kudu?

 

[Zac]

Not trying to argue, why do you think the Day Six is better than the Kudu?

S30 V steel vs 420 stainless, not really an argument just S30V is a premium steel. Same steel Benchmade makes knives out of. Edge retention, and durability are going to be world's better than a Kudu.

 

[TheViking]

I’ve used the Day Six and the edge is very “chippy” - a common complaint with S30v.

 

[Zac]

I’ve used the Day Six and the edge is very “chippy” - a common complaint with S30v.

When you say chippy did you by chance go through a bone? S30 V is only slightly less impact resistant than A2, which is probably the best broadhead material on the market. Iron Wills can sometimes lose a tip or something when an animal rolls on it. I've also seen the Grizzly Stik Maasai's, and Silver Flames chip. These are all premium heads. You can't bash a head for chipping. Harder steels are required for sharper edges and edge retention while the blade is cutting through tissue. Blade chipping is a common occurrence and can usually be touched up fairly easily.

 

[Chadpearson]

I decided to go with grim reapers this year and have absolutely loved the flight im getting from them. They make every style of broad head you'd need from fixed, hybrid, or pure mechanical. The previous posts I could also see being true as every S30V steeled knife I own when sharpening chips little V's from the blade.

 

[Billy Goat]

When you say chippy did you by chance go through a bone? S30 V is only slightly less impact resistant than A2, which is probably the best broadhead material on the market. Iron Wills can sometimes lose a tip or something when an animal rolls on it. I've also seen the Grizzly Stik Maasai's, and Silver Flames chip. These are all premium heads. You can't bash a head for chipping. Harder steels are required for sharper edges and edge retention while the blade is cutting through tissue. Blade chipping is a common occurrence and can usually be touched up fairly easily.

Chip or bend, something has to give sometimes. A steel that chips will hold an edge better than one that bends.

 

[Jasonassel]

not much of a fan of a mechanical for Elk......make sure your bow is tuned and use a fix blade BH with a steel ferrule. Cannot go wrong.

 

[Bighunt531]

Good evening all. Canadian Rokslider here.

Although I've been shooting a compound bow for 20 years, I haven't done much actual bowhunting.

My first decade of bowhunting I was determined to hunt from the ground and stalk/stillhunt an animal. Anyone familiar with the "big woods" knows this is a formidable task. The last decade I have done far more of my hunting with a rifle and the bow has basically just been shot in my back yard for the joy of archery.

I've decided to place more emphasis on bowhunting moving forward, largely because my job now makes it difficult to get time off during our two week deer rifle season.

I've had my "vintage" 2008 Hoyt Vectrix XL tuned up and want to upgrade my broadheads. I know it is an older bow, but it's in good shape and I shoot it well enough for my needs. I'm not a "gear guy" for bowhunting - I already do enough of that for rifle hunting and other outdoor activities!

I'll be hunting whitetail deer and moose (calf tag this year). I would not shoot at a game animal beyond 40 meters and frankly would likely draw that line at 30 meters in field conditions.

I'm open to either mechanical or fixed blade - but I want something durable. Something that practice heads can be purchased for might be handy for practice too.

Thanks for any and all input.

Go buy yourself two packs of thunderhead 125s, dial them in tune and dont look back, proper shot placement is key with any broadhead , thunderheads have been around as long as they have for a reason.