Broadhead choice

gledeasy

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I got lucky and drew a good tag this year for elk. Getting my archery equipment put together. I'll admit, I'm pretty novice as I don't do archery a ton. I shoot a hoyt alphamax 35, draw length is 29.5 inches, and 65 pounds.

I've always shot 100gr broadheads, but am thinking the 125gr may be better for elk. I've asked 3 different friends what their preference is and have gotten 3 different responses haha... surprising right.

Now, I'm taking to the internet to get your opinion. The three my friends gave were ozcut hurricane, ramcat diamondback, and slick trick magnum.

Which friend gave the better advice? I'm guessing any of these will do the trick.
 

Marble

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Axis 300 or 340, 50 grains of brass up front, 125 head, cut 28" long.

Choose a good cut on contact head and you'll be good. The ones you mentioned will work.

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Everybody on here has their favorite. Get ready to hear the words “iron will” a bunch. I’ve had good luck with slick trick standards on elk and deer. Most are going to tell you it has more to do with shot placement and arrow weight.

If your 100 grain tips are shooting well, I don’t know that I’d change. Unless you’re like a sub 400 grain arrow. But that’s a personal preference.
 

Greenmachine_1

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I agree that QAD makes a quality product, is very durable, and fly great for me.

I'm not sure I would change my setup unless you want to play around with different options. Most broadheads will work just fine.

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gelton

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Which weight broadhead depends on the spine of the arrow...if a .340 then 100 grain, if a .300 then 125 for your setup. Broadhead choice is like fords and chevys but most any fixed blade that fly well should do the trick.
 
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a 100 grain vs a 125 isn't going to be an end all. Shoot one that is the most forgiving and is of solid design, case closed.
 

WCB

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If your dialed in with 100gr heads just use those no need to start messing with stuff. What head are you currently shooting? I have experience with the SLick Tricks and killed a bunch of stuff with them. I am not a fan of the steep blade angle. I would look at the Viper Trick.
 
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gledeasy

gledeasy

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The arrows I have now are the gold tip hunter xt 300. The broadheads are g5 100gr. I bought my setup used a few years back, so just kept the same arrows/broadheads. Now that I have a tag I'm excited about I guess I'm wanting to play around more with other options.
 

Greenmachine_1

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The arrows I have now are the gold tip hunter xt 300. The broadheads are g5 100gr. I bought my setup used a few years back, so just kept the same arrows/broadheads. Now that I have a tag I'm excited about I guess I'm wanting to play around more with other options.
If you want to try something new, then the next question is budget. You can go ultra high-end with tight tolerances and a specific amount of weight forward and a high-end broadhead.

If it were me, grab a few different weight broadheads from some different companies and see how they fly. Try to shoot at distance and compare to field points and pick what you feel best about. Everyone will have a different thought. If you can afford them, DaySix, Ironwill (yeah I said it), and other high end broadhead do have an advantage in quality materials and made to handle many situations like hitting a rock without breaking. I have Ironwill solids and wides that I have tested, but no application data. There's a lot to be said for a broadhead with replaceable blades that are cheaper. QAD and Ramcats are some that I have tried, but there are many that work.

Good luck with your choice.

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big44a4

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Shoot 125 heads they say. Do you have 125gr field tips? Are 125gr BH readily available at every store that carries any archery equipment?

I had a buddy switch to deep six arrows few years back. Left broadheads at home. Got to where we were hunting and none of the big box stores or little shops that sold archery equipment carried deep 6 BH in the city. 3hr drive to hunt and his arrows were useless. Not same as 125gr point I’m making because can shoot 100gr and most likely not be too far off given your comfortable shooting distance. Just something to think about.
 

gelton

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The arrows I have now are the gold tip hunter xt 300. The broadheads are g5 100gr. I bought my setup used a few years back, so just kept the same arrows/broadheads. Now that I have a tag I'm excited about I guess I'm wanting to play around more with other options.
You have enough spine to shoot 125's if you want but you might want to find out what weight inserts you have...if you bought them off the shelf then they are probably 15 grains and in that case you probably do want more point weight than you are running with a .300 spine arrow.
 

nphunter

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I would just buy whatever fits your budget and you like, they all work for elk and at your specs you will not have any issues. I would spend as much time shooting before now and then and make sure to shoot broadheads as well at whatever distance you feel comfortable shooting at. Shot placement kills animals above all else and since you are newer to archery you should focus on that.
 

WCB

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I would personally just use what you have and just shoot shoot shoot. I chased broadheads for a few years and in my experience it was just and expensive form of mental masturbation. But I have tried standard, magnum, and the Viper Tricks from Slick Trick and only complaint I have is the steep blade angle on their chisel tip heads. Thought I should of had pass thrus that I didn't get them on.
 

Scooter90254

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Any one of the quality cut contact heads will work. QAD wins most of the YouTube tests.

As for the ultra high price heads. You could take Walmart brand head, charge $100 each, and you would get a big following on here. Lol
 
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Any one of the quality cut contact heads will work. QAD wins most of the YouTube tests.

As for the ultra high price heads. You could take Walmart brand head, charge $100 each, and you would get a big following on here. Lol


Spoken like someone who has a lot of experience with broadheads.....


You can say they aren't worth the price to you, however there's a big difference in some of the premium heads. I use replaceable blades some, however these premium heads really do hold an edge a lot better and are more durable than the cheaper heads. Only the individual can decide if it's worth the expense.


I spend the money when I'm using my single string.

Exodus is a good broadhead, it takes more energy than other designs, but it does tune well and is pretty durable. I have used wack'em before with good results. Magnus Stinger with the bleeders is a good head. I have seen several bent blades from slick trick, however I can't say that they ever resulted in not killing an animal.

I tried some walmart heads one time. I bought them to try to use to slit un-slir shot shell wads for reloading. They were hardly sharp enough to cut the plastic pedals. No way would I use them for anything but small game.
 
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gledeasy

gledeasy

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I would spend as much time shooting before now and then and make sure to shoot broadheads as well at whatever distance you feel comfortable shooting at. Shot placement kills animals above all else and since you are newer to archery you should focus on that.
20210520_085543.jpg

I'm off to a great start 🤣. Been a few years since I got it good like that.
 

Greenmachine_1

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Spoken like someone who has a lot of experience with broadheads.....


You can say they aren't worth the price to you, however there's a big difference in some of the premium heads. I use replaceable blades some, however these premium heads really do hold an edge a lot better and are more durable than the cheaper heads. Only the individual can decide if it's worth the expense.


I spend the money when I'm using my single string.

Exodus is a good broadhead, it takes more energy than other designs, but it does tune well and is pretty durable. I have used wack'em before with good results. Magnus Stinger with the bleeders is a good head. I have seen several bent blades from slick trick, however I can't say that they ever resulted in not killing an animal.

I tried some walmart heads one time. I bought them to try to use to slit un-slir shot shell wads for reloading. They were hardly sharp enough to cut the plastic pedals. No way would I use them for anything but small game.
He was just trying to troll. There is no doubt that the premium heads are quality and worth the value if you can afford it.

I would say that the iron wills are replacement blade heads, but you'll get a ton more life out of the blade or just keep multiple blades and switch them out and resharpen when a blade is dull (did that on a wide that ended up in the dirt).

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He was just trying to troll. There is no doubt that the premium heads are quality and worth the value if you can afford it.

I would say that the iron wills are replacement blade heads, but you'll get a ton more life out of the blade or just keep multiple blades and switch them out and resharpen when a blade is dull (did that on a wide that ended up in the dirt).

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I'd guess you are correct, in that Iron Will are actually replaceable blade heads.

My term for replacement blade is one that uses a single replacement blade that's in the realm of .045 or so thickness. The Magnus Stinger has a replaceable blade similar to the IW design, I'd not consider it replaceable, but for the cost they just as well be. I think new blades can be had for like $7 a head.
 
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