Broadhead tuning a little different way

Wapiti1

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My PSE Carbon Air 32 developed a bad case of needing cables due to a serving separation where the draw stop hits. They were a couple of years old, so rather than re-serve, I snagged a new set. Once I got it to specs, I timed the cams, and re-shimmed/yoke twisted a little to set initial cam lean. Everything looked good, so I set centershot, tied in the nocking point, and the peep.

Anyway, I didn't have any paper setup, and I didn't want to strip an arrow of its pretty fletching. So, I figured, I'd shortcut the whole thing and just shoot a broadhead and field point to tune. My thought process being, this is where I will end up anyway.

Sight in the field point at 20 yards, then see where the broadhead ended up. Adjust the yoke for right/left and rest for up/down (could do nock too) as needed. I didn't move my rest for left/right, but you could do it that way if you wanted within reason. If the yokes aren't close, though, you'll end up chasing your tail way off centershot.

The broadhead in this case is a Slick Trick 125 Magnum, and I shoot a 27.25" C to C 300 spine arrow with a 50 grain insert, lighted nock, and 3 blazer vanes.

Took way less time. About 5 shot pairs and they were on top of each other. Moved to 40, and re-did the process. A couple of minor adjustments, and moved to 60. No further adjustment needed. I'll shoot it like this for a couple of weeks and re-check, but I suspect I won't have to do anything. If I do, I'll move the rest to dial it back in.

Anyway, I hadn't done this before, and it worked really well. I haven't seen anyone report on doing it this way, so thought that I would share. Although, I doubt I invented anything.

Jeremy
 
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Wapiti1

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I was a not so sure the broadhead would be within 3 feet of the target center, and I didn't want to chase an arrow. Poison ivy and me are mortal enemies, and there aren't any leaves left for me to navigate by.

Next time around, maybe I'll be brave like you. For now, I'm a wuss.

Jeremy
 
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Wapiti1

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Before I shot past 40 yards, I didn't bother. I'd sight in the broadheads, and go.

These days I take the time to get the best flight I can. In this case, a cable and string change altered the bow a lot, so it needed to be tuned to get something resembling good flight.

An arrow that flies well will penetrate better, and is less affected by out of position shooting form, and wind.

To each his own. It's something that I feel is necessary.

Jeremy
 
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I don't see that as being a different way, that's just what broadhead tuning is.


Saves targets to start with bareshafts, generally you won't need to make adjustments with broadheads, or if you do very little.
 
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People spend way too much time messing around with tuning, nice to hear someone who just walked out side and quickly tuned their bow for once!
 
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Wapiti1

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I don't see that as being a different way, that's just what broadhead tuning is.


Saves targets to start with bareshafts, generally you won't need to make adjustments with broadheads, or if you do very little.
You're right. It just seemed like a simpler method after I did it. I've seen a lot of posts about folks chasing their tail trying to bareshaft tune.

Jeremy
 
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You're right. It just seemed like a simpler method after I did it. I've seen a lot of posts about folks chasing their tail trying to bareshaft tune.

Jeremy

You ain't wrong.

Bareshaft tuning is easy when the shooter has good repeatable form.

Most people that come over for help, we just use broadheads. Otherwise it's days of correcting form.
 

5MilesBack

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People spend way too much time messing around with tuning
That's why I prefer 60 yards. Even very minor adjustments immediately show results. Then it's just very very minute adjustments to fine tune it until BH's and FP's are very consistently together. I prefer yoke and cable adjustments after setting my centershot and level arrow.
 
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