My PSE Carbon Air 32 developed a bad case of needing cables due to a serving separation where the draw stop hits. They were a couple of years old, so rather than re-serve, I snagged a new set. Once I got it to specs, I timed the cams, and re-shimmed/yoke twisted a little to set initial cam lean. Everything looked good, so I set centershot, tied in the nocking point, and the peep.
Anyway, I didn't have any paper setup, and I didn't want to strip an arrow of its pretty fletching. So, I figured, I'd shortcut the whole thing and just shoot a broadhead and field point to tune. My thought process being, this is where I will end up anyway.
Sight in the field point at 20 yards, then see where the broadhead ended up. Adjust the yoke for right/left and rest for up/down (could do nock too) as needed. I didn't move my rest for left/right, but you could do it that way if you wanted within reason. If the yokes aren't close, though, you'll end up chasing your tail way off centershot.
The broadhead in this case is a Slick Trick 125 Magnum, and I shoot a 27.25" C to C 300 spine arrow with a 50 grain insert, lighted nock, and 3 blazer vanes.
Took way less time. About 5 shot pairs and they were on top of each other. Moved to 40, and re-did the process. A couple of minor adjustments, and moved to 60. No further adjustment needed. I'll shoot it like this for a couple of weeks and re-check, but I suspect I won't have to do anything. If I do, I'll move the rest to dial it back in.
Anyway, I hadn't done this before, and it worked really well. I haven't seen anyone report on doing it this way, so thought that I would share. Although, I doubt I invented anything.
Jeremy
Anyway, I didn't have any paper setup, and I didn't want to strip an arrow of its pretty fletching. So, I figured, I'd shortcut the whole thing and just shoot a broadhead and field point to tune. My thought process being, this is where I will end up anyway.
Sight in the field point at 20 yards, then see where the broadhead ended up. Adjust the yoke for right/left and rest for up/down (could do nock too) as needed. I didn't move my rest for left/right, but you could do it that way if you wanted within reason. If the yokes aren't close, though, you'll end up chasing your tail way off centershot.
The broadhead in this case is a Slick Trick 125 Magnum, and I shoot a 27.25" C to C 300 spine arrow with a 50 grain insert, lighted nock, and 3 blazer vanes.
Took way less time. About 5 shot pairs and they were on top of each other. Moved to 40, and re-did the process. A couple of minor adjustments, and moved to 60. No further adjustment needed. I'll shoot it like this for a couple of weeks and re-check, but I suspect I won't have to do anything. If I do, I'll move the rest to dial it back in.
Anyway, I hadn't done this before, and it worked really well. I haven't seen anyone report on doing it this way, so thought that I would share. Although, I doubt I invented anything.
Jeremy