broadhead tuning help

[gibby97]

With a Bowtech, you need to set the rest to center shot and yoke tune.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

question. I had it yoke tuned with field points, do i need to yoke tune with a bh as well and if so will this bring my 2 arrows together or will i need to tune again with the rest?

 

[Ucsdryder]

question. I had it yoke tuned with field points, do i need to yoke tune with a bh as well and if so will this bring my 2 arrows together or will i need to tune again with the rest?

Yes and no

 

[Brendan]

@gibby97 - several things:

We still need your draw length. You haven't mentioned it that I've seen. You might have a weak spine issue.

With a Bowtech, you are better off yoke tuning and leaving the rest at centershot, but you can test with the rest if you don't have access to a press.

Yoke tuning is done with both broadheads and field points. You set rest to centershot, and then yoke tune to bring those two together. Need a press.

If you do want to test with the rest instead of yoke tuning, you were moving the rest the wrong way in your testing.

You always want to rule out fletching contact with Rest, Shelf, and cables first because it's easy and can screw everything else up. Spray on foot powder and a couple arrows is all it takes.

 

[Billy Goat]

question. I had it yoke tuned with field points, do i need to yoke tune with a bh as well and if so will this bring my 2 arrows together or will i need to tune again with the rest?

If you have some time try getting on YouTube and watching a few short videos on tuning a binary cam. Do some searches for your bow and the destroyer series. I think if you get a visual on some of what we are saying it will help you.

With your arrow 1/2" past riser it sounds like you are shooting a 30" draw. Do you know if this draw length fits you?

If you are 30" DL I'd definitely say you are underspined.

 

[fatlander]

Agree with billygoat. You’ve got two separate issues in my opinion. 1 - you haven’t yoked tuned with bareshafts and then broadheads. 2 - you’re underspined. You still might be able to get those arrows to tune, but they’re going to be less forgiving than a stiffer .300 shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[5MilesBack]

not sure on draw length but the arrow is approx a 1/2" past the front of the riser if that makes sense.

If you don't know what your draw length is.....or should be, then you could have all kinds of form issues going on. You need to find a good competent shop.

 

[gibby97]

If you have some time try getting on YouTube and watching a few short videos on tuning a binary cam. Do some searches for your bow and the destroyer series. I think if you get a visual on some of what we are saying it will help you.

With your arrow 1/2" past riser it sounds like you are shooting a 30" draw. Do you know if this draw length fits you?

If you are 30" DL I'd definitely say you are underspined.

Draw length is good, with release at full draw the sting v's at the corner of my mouth

 

[Billy Goat]

question. I had it yoke tuned with field points, do i need to yoke tune with a bh as well and if so will this bring my 2 arrows together or will i need to tune again with the rest?

I don't pay much attention to paper, in my opinion if you only yoke tuned with a field point it wasn't finished. I yoke tune to bring field point and broadhead impact together. Can also be done with a bareshaft, I just tend to do my tuning at distance with a broadhead.

 

[406unltd]

Hit left move rest left

 

[gibby97]

Hopefully got everything resolved. found a bow shop that seems to know a little something about tuning a bowtech. They found that the cams where out of tune as well as the rest was not level as it should be and the knock point was a little low.

They made several adjustments along with turning the yoke to correct all the problems. After a few shots through the paper and making changes to the yoke we were getting bullet hole paper shots.

hopefully this will resolve my issues.

appreciate all the advice and help here. I have learned more about bows in the past few months of being on this site than i ever learned the past 30 years of bow hunting. Hopefully it pays off this Sept.

 

[Fisherhahn]

Might just be me but I don’t like to try to broadhead tune with a bare shaft like the op is doing. I bare shaft tune with fp to get good arrow flight then from there shoot fletched arrows when getting fp and broadheads to hit the same. Why try this with bare shaft??? It’s more than likely going to change when you start shooting a finished arrow anyway.

 

[Billy Goat]

Might just be me but I don’t like to try to broadhead tune with a bare shaft like the op is doing. I bare shaft tune with fp to get good arrow flight then from there shoot fletched arrows when getting fp and broadheads to hit the same. Why try this with bare shaft??? It’s more than likely going to change when you start shooting a finished arrow anyway.

I'd never shoot a broadhead without fletching on the shaft. I wasn't aware that's what was happening here. Should just be shooting a fletched field point and a fletched broadhead.

If you are bareshaft tuning that's with field points.

 

[Fisherhahn]

That’s the way I took the original post. “340 arrow at 30.5” bare shaft with a 65lb pull” I could be wrong...

 

[60x]

first make sure its not you torqueing or pressing against your face or any form flaws. left/right is usually a power stroke issue. Id personally get with someone that knows how to bareshaft tune, that will give you answers right away

 

[Billy Goat]

That’s the way I took the original post. “340 arrow at 30.5” bare shaft with a 65lb pull” I could be wrong...

Maybe, I think I misread that or interpreted as raw shaft or carbon to carbon.

 

[gibby97]

That’s the way I took the original post. “340 arrow at 30.5” bare shaft with a 65lb pull” I could be wrong...

Guess that;s my mistake, i meant that the arrow bare shaft was 30.5” not including knock and FP. Sorry about all the confusion there.