Broadhead Tuning QAD vs Trocars

[cuttiebrownbow]

I shot QAD exodus swept blade broadheads as my primary hunting head. To tune for them I bareshaft papertune in my basement at about 18 feet, then shoot the bs and fletched arrows out to 30 yards and then typically I don’t have to make any further adjustments to get the QAD to hit with field points. I have shot trocars as well and thought they hit pretty much with everything else.

I got a back up bow and I had it hitting bs and fletched hitting right with each other out to 30. Try a QAD and that hits with everything out to 50.

QAD exodus swept blade broadheads are out of stock right now so I figured I would just shoot trocars as I have enough to supply this new bow.

So, I shoot at 30 and it is shooting low with the trocars.

Through advancing the bottom cam by a 1/2 a twist and bumping the arrow rest up to nock level I have them shooting perfectly out to 50 yards but now my bareshaft is hitting high at all distances.

I am just going to run with it for the rest of the fall because it is shooting well but it will annoy me to not have all three grouping together.

Anyone else have this experience? I know now if I run it through paper my bs will definitely be nock low.

My shoulder was tired after all the shooting yesterday so I never tried the exodus or the other broadheads I had laying around after my final adjustments for the trocars.


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[Zac]

My guess is you just overshot it by a little bit. I don't think you need to twist a yoke and move the rest. If your timing was already perfect than moving the rest should be adequate.

 

[Billy Goat]

If you have your hunting heads hitting with your fieldpoints that's all I'd be worried about. Ultimately that's the goal of everything else you are doing.

Make sure you were using multiple trocar heads.

 

[Reburn]

I agree with what was said above. Make sure you are using multiple trocar heads. If you are then you have a decision. What broadhead is your primary broadhead? If it is the trocars this season leave everything as it.

I group tune with my iron wills and fieldpoints. I dont care too much what a bareshaft is doing. It would be ideal for a bareshaft to hit with them as well but isnt nessecary. If another broadhead wont fly with my iron wills and my fieldpoints I just dont use it as the IW are my primary broadheads. For the record my sevr, IW s100 and w100, and nap gobbler getter and nap spitfire all hit the same point. The tooth of the arrow heads are just a touch right and low 2.5x2.5" at 70. Like said above the goal is for your broadheads and field points to both hit behind the same pin. You can find a broadhead that will group with your fieldpoints and bare shafts in the off season if you want to.

 

[5MilesBack]

Have you checked for fletching contact? It doesn't take much to kick the back end of the arrow up. That would also explain why your BS's are now hitting high after your adjustments.

 

[cuttiebrownbow]

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I will be trying a couple different trocars tomorrow and will check for contact as well.

If no contact and all trocars are hitting the same then I am just going to run with it for the rest of the year.

I don’t plan on touching anything else unless I absolutely have to.


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[Wellsdw]

I have had the same issue with bareshaft vs broadheads vs field point impact. Fletched arrows with field point and broadheads is all I worry about. I’ll sling arrow bare shaft just for giggles and it’s usually decent but I don’t put much thought into bs. I blame my drinking habit on my 2017 bareshaft tuning phase truth be told

 

[n8saki]

Agreed with the others, as long as the broadheads and field points are hitting the same I would call it good. My bs are a little right at 30 but the Ironwills and FPs are good to 80 confirmed. Trocars are also good for me.

 

[Zac]

Be interesting to know what fletching configuration your running. I think with some of the really high profile vanes like the Max Hunters it helps to fletch away from the riser with less helical. This way you aren't risking the vane tapping your launcher if you are using a slower limb driven drop away.

 

[cuttiebrownbow]

I am using 3 helical blazers right now on this set up. As I just have a ton of them from over the years.

I think clearance could be an issue just in general. I need some foot spray or lip stick to confirm as one of my arrows my cock vane was slightly angled into the riser and that one would give me some weird flight. I made sure to check all of them after that and corrected any to make sure nock vane was up.

I did end up turning nock vane slightly out today and I think I was getting better arrow flight but I would like to confirm with lip stick.

The biggest issue I believe was string stretch. Typically I would order new strings but I am just using the stock bowtech ones as I got the bow last minute. I synced both cams and set initial lean before I shot and then bareshaft tuned it from there just a couple weeks ago.

I ended up throwing it on the draw board last night and noticed my top cam had noticeable more lean with the top draw stop barely grabbing cable. (it definitely wasn't like that after I initially bareshaft tuned it) I added twists just to the top left yoke to get them even at full draw and then retimed it. That put me at a right tear (as I assumed it would) so I cleared that up with the yokes.

The closest I could get was probably the smallest left tear possible so I moved my rest just ever so slightly and that cleaned that up.

I just shot broadheads, bareshafts and field points out to 40 yards and all seemed to be hitting together.

I loaded up my press though and I am heading to my cabin to hunt bears this weekend so after tomorrow morning I will shoot out to 60 and see what I find.

Right now the tune is arrow through middle of berger hole, top camp hitting just barely before bottom cam, nock just barely high and arrow running 13/16th off the riser or extremely close to it.

Bowtech Realm SS with Hamskea Hybrid Hunter Pro rest is my set up for anyone wondering. I did move my rest cable a about an 1/2 an inch further from the limb tip to make sure my rest would drop quicker and avoid fletching contact with the whale tail as well. I did have it as close to the tip as possible previously.

 

[cuttiebrownbow]

Edit: I just got my shipping notification from QAD. Multiple packs of QAD exodus are on the way. I will be curious to see how they fly with the trocars next week when I receive them.

 

[Zac]

Yeah I think running the cock vane to the left of the riser on a right handed bow really helps with clearance on a 2 inch profile vane. I went back to the Stealths after messing with Max Hunter's. Those are cutting it awfully close.

 

[n8saki]

Be interesting to know what fletching configuration your running. I think with some of the really high profile vanes like the Max Hunters it helps to fletch away from the riser with less helical. This way you aren't risking the vane tapping your launcher if you are using a slower limb driven drop away.

Hyrbid-26 4 Fletch 2.5 degree R Helical. Saw no different with the Stealth other than one extra step. Prefer the simplicity of the Hyrbid 26.

 

[Zac]

Hyrbid-26 4 Fletch 2.5 degree R Helical. Saw no different with the Stealth other than one extra step. Prefer the simplicity of the Hyrbid 26.

Yeah I also keep those on hand for when I run out of the pen.

 

[cuttiebrownbow]

Hyrbid-26 4 Fletch 2.5 degree R Helical. Saw no different with the Stealth other than one extra step. Prefer the simplicity of the Hyrbid 26.

I was thinking about trying these next spring in 3 and 4 fletch for one of my set ups.


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