Broadhead tuning sucks

[N2TRKYS]

Unless I misunderstand @RosinBag, The context is not practice, it's checking tune, i.e. is the GEAR doing what it's supposed to. So if you know you failed to execute a good shot, you should definitely NOT put any stock in that arrow, because it doesn't reflect what happens when you do your part. Obviously you can't make a perfect shot every time, and for the purpose of something like determining max ethical shot distance of course you can't discount a flier, but if checking out your equipment, you shouldn't be making decisions about whether you're in tune based on an arrow you know was a bad shot.

No, he said he did that during every practice session. Not just setting up his bow. He just got through discounting one members practice because he said a 3 shot group was useless. But went on to say that he didn't count bad shots in his group. Lol.
I learned pretty early on that trying to shoot tight groups at the same dot was counter productive.
One shot per distance at a different dot was more practical for me, as every shot counts. Just like in my hunting situations. And I didn't waste my time or money replacing cut fletchings, busted nocks, or damaged arrows.
I've never gotten more than 2 shots at live game, so that's how I practice.

 

[RosinBag]

Turkey guy, your way must be the only way.

I didn’t discount anyone’s method, I just don’t consider two arrows a group as that’s my opinion.

Practice, tuning and everything I shoot multiple arrows at the same spot, it confirms that what I am doing is repeatable and consistent. I don’t think I get that with one arrow at a time.

I also only shoot a couple tournaments a year that are one arrow, they are all 2, 3, 4 and even 6 at a time. I am no pro, but I learned from some of the best and shockingly they shoot groups and do so to confirm marks, group tune arrows, and work on their form. Somehow I am more apt to take their opinions on what works for someone that shoots as well as they do over your one arrow wonder theory.

With that, I just finished shooting arrows through the chronograph at 5’, 60 yards and 100 yards. I will start a new thread with that information in a couple hours.

And Turkey guy I looked forward to your input, it has been near invaluable.

 

[5MilesBack]

I didn’t discount anyone’s method, I just don’t consider two arrows a group as that’s my opinion.

So when you BH tune you shoot multiple arrows with BH's at the same spot, so that you have multiple BH arrows and multiple FP arrows in the target at the same time just so you can call it a group? I would expect a shooter like you to be ruining a lot of arrows doing that. That's akin to the guys that shoot their BH arrows at their FP arrows.......like Dudley.

About 12 years ago I tried to shoot a 100gr BH at 60 yards after shooting a 125gr BH expecting it to impact high enough to miss the arrow because of the 25gr difference, and ended up with a ruined arrow. Haven't shot two BH arrows at the same bullseye since, at any distance.

 

[Wellsdw]

There are many methods and tuning techniques. Bareshaft is only one of them and it is definitely not the "correct" way, it is just one way of doing it. Lots of top archers ingnore it entirely. I'm sure it works great for those that do it, just as other methods work for other shooters. Perhaps luckily, when the bows I own are shooting fletched bullets through paper they are also shooting small fixed blades well. Admittedly this is with really small, forgiving heads, but that is exactly why I shoot those, and they hit pretty much spot on out to 70, maybe a little low, say a couple inches. I have played with bareshaft tuning, but it isn't for me at this point. I do shoot a bareshaft occasionally to see where it is hitting, and when my bow is "tuned" bareshafts are usually pretty spot on with fletched shafts. For some reason in my form/grip/anatomy bareshafts for me end up in a left tear angle in the target but I am perpetually tuning out a right tear with my fletched shafts. I got tired of chasing my tail with it and ended up tuning my bow to what I am actually going to shoot out of it...field points and broadheads with fletching.

I would be curious about the OP's bow setup, whether he tunes his bow initially or not, and his arrow/fletch/broadhead combo.

My sentiments exactly on tuning.
Bare shaft tuning basically leads me to heavy drinking and head-scratching to reach perfection only to end up with my field points hitting “close” with broadheads at 70. Achieving the same results as Broadhead walk back in a fraction of the time

 

[RosinBag]

So when you BH tune you shoot multiple arrows with BH's at the same spot, so that you have multiple BH arrows and multiple FP arrows in the target at the same time just so you can call it a group? I would expect a shooter like you to be ruining a lot of arrows doing that. That's akin to the guys that shoot their BH arrows at their FP arrows.......like Dudley.

About 12 years ago I tried to shoot a 100gr BH at 60 yards after shooting a 125gr BH expecting it to impact high enough to miss the arrow because of the 25gr difference, and ended up with a ruined arrow. Haven't shot two BH arrows at the same bullseye since, at any distance.

I have different procedures, but I will go over those in the thread I am typing up.

 

[OR Archer]

And threads like this are why I choose not to post on here much anymore. The AT mentality has now taken over here.

 

[WI in the west]

Well I appreciate the helpful info given earlier on but it definatly looks like it’s time to dip out of this thread. I definatly got some new ideas thanks to you guys.

 

[Ag111]

There are so many ways to ultimately arrive at the same place with tuning. No matter what your preferred method or sequence of methods, the one universal truth I have found is that the more time I spend tuning my bow perfectly the less frustration I have later with tuning to broadheads.

 

[Cstangle24]

It seems to me that it would just be easier to use a dovetail sight system (easy to change) and use a different sight for FP and BH.

Someone please explain why this wouldn't work.

 

[jmez]

If the difference at 60 yards is 1.5 inches then there are very few, if any, archers in the world that could reliably tell this difference. So we are arguing semantics. Do they hit in the same spot, no. Do they all fall within the kill zone with same hold, can certainly be done.

IMO it is a disservice to guys new to tuning to simply dismiss close point of impact because of semantics. The other point that is always lost in these threads is windage impact. So you tell a new guy to just go ahead and put on a mechanical head and shoot the set up as is. Bad choice shooting a mechanical broadhead with poor arrow flight. The laws of physics apply there as well.

 

[5MilesBack]

If someone shoots 10 times at the same spot and hits in 10 different spots, then tuning is going to be extremely tough for that individual.

One thing I found for me is that it's much easier to "hold" on one single plane versus trying to hold on a spot. What I mean is, it's a lot easier to hold dead steady on one horizontal line bisecting the pin on that line without worrying about left and right. And that applies to any distance, so it's real easy to see even 1" differences between BH's and FP's if the line was bisecting the pin for each shot. For bisecting pins, a larger pin actually helps and makes it easier to make sure the pin is bisected by the line. The same thing works with a vertical line, not worrying about elevation. This makes tuning and setting pins much easier IMO.

 

[N2TRKYS]

Turkey guy, your way must be the only way.

I didn’t discount anyone’s method, I just don’t consider two arrows a group as that’s my opinion.

Practice, tuning and everything I shoot multiple arrows at the same spot, it confirms that what I am doing is repeatable and consistent. I don’t think I get that with one arrow at a time.

I also only shoot a couple tournaments a year that are one arrow, they are all 2, 3, 4 and even 6 at a time. I am no pro, but I learned from some of the best and shockingly they shoot groups and do so to confirm marks, group tune arrows, and work on their form. Somehow I am more apt to take their opinions on what works for someone that shoots as well as they do over your one arrow wonder theory.

With that, I just finished shooting arrows through the chronograph at 5’, 60 yards and 100 yards. I will start a new thread with that information in a couple hours.

And Turkey guy I looked forward to your input, it has been near invaluable.

Rbag, never said my way was the only way. I just said I've never had these issues with mine. You're the one that's had the problem with it.

I hunt with my bow, so I'm more interested in where my first arrow goes. If I miss my mark with the first shot, it doesn't matter where the next 5 arrows hit.

Personally, I don't care whose advice you take. I can only offer what has been working all these years for me, so I don't see myself trying fix something that's not broken for me.

Your test is only applicable to the range you shoot animals. If you shoot animals at 100 yds then, of course, you'll see a difference. However, I don't shoot animals at 100 yds. You could've run the same test with 2" and 4" vanes at extended ranges and probably see some similarities.

I'm glad you've found my info so invaluable. I'm just passing on what's worked for me and what experience has shown me. Glad you liked it.

 

[cody21peterson]

If someone shoots 10 times at the same spot and hits in 10 different spots, then tuning is going to be extremely tough for that individual.

One thing I found for me is that it's much easier to "hold" on one single plane versus trying to hold on a spot. What I mean is, it's a lot easier to hold dead steady on one horizontal line bisecting the pin on that line without worrying about left and right. And that applies to any distance, so it's real easy to see even 1" differences between BH's and FP's if the line was bisecting the pin for each shot. For bisecting pins, a larger pin actually helps and makes it easier to make sure the pin is bisected by the line. The same thing works with a vertical line, not worrying about elevation. This makes tuning and setting pins much easier IMO.

I really like that idea. I have a big 30 inch target but I can only shoot field points into it. For broadheads I have a rinehart 18-1. I will probably run some tape on that and shoot one Broadhead at a time and adjust accordingly. I’m kinda nervous to shoot broadheads between 60 and 80 yards. If I miss that rinehart my arrow is toast!


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[rodney482]

Stop shooting field points. Tune, sight-in, practice with broadheads.

 

[5MilesBack]

I really like that idea. I have a big 30 inch target but I can only shoot field points into it. For broadheads I have a rinehart 18-1. I will probably run some tape on that and shoot one Broadhead at a time and adjust accordingly. I’m kinda nervous to shoot broadheads between 60 and 80 yards. If I miss that rinehart my arrow is toast!

You don't have to shoot at 60 to tune. Start at 20 if you want, or 30, or 40.....whatever you're comfortable with. You can also bare shaft tune at 20 yards and you'll have everything really close before shooting BH's. But I like shooting BH's and I like shooting 60 yards, so that's what I use. And very small adjustments really show up the further out you're shooting........IF you can consistently hit what you're aiming at.

 

[madkaw284]

Stop shooting field points. Tune, sight-in, practice with broadheads.

The problem with that is, your bow can be out of tune and still shoot broadheads in the same spot over and over, you just have to move your sight to compensate for an out of tune bow.


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[rodney482]

The problem with that is, your bow can be out of tune and still shoot broadheads in the same spot over and over, you just have to move your sight to compensate for an out of tune bow.


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My first step is to “Tune” (with broadheads)

 

[Brendan]

My first step is to “Tune” (with broadheads)

My opinion: Bow isn't "Tuned" unless different broadheads and field points fly the same (ignoring the long range vertical drop).

Think about it: If they don't, that means the broadhead and arrow is coming out at an angle and planing some before it stabilizes. You're losing efficiency, there's a chance you hit a close target before an arrow stabilizes in which case you lose penetration, and it's just inconvenient you can't switch between different broadheads and field points.

 

[rodney482]

My opinion: Bow isn't "Tuned" unless different broadheads and field points fly the same (ignoring the long range vertical drop).

Think about it: If they don't, that means the broadhead and arrow is coming out at an angle and planing some before it stabilizes. You're losing efficiency, there's a chance you hit a close target before an arrow stabilizes in which case you lose penetration, and it's just inconvenient you can't switch between different broadheads and field points.

Im not shooting animals with fieldpoints and enjoy practicing with every arrow in my quiver.

When I shot competition those bows were just that... foam bows, tuned w fieldpoints.

~Perfect practice makes perfect.
~Train the way you hunt and hunt the way you train.

** I dont mind buying targets.

 

[Brendan]

I'm not sure what that even means...

All I'm saying is tuning your field points and broadheads to hit together, will make your broadheads more effective.