Broadhead tuning sucks

[rodney482]

Im saying I start right off shooting broadheads through paper. I have zero interest in matching a field point to anything.

Field points were designed to save targets.

I'm not sure what that even means...

All I'm saying is tuning your field points and broadheads to hit together, will make your broadheads more effective.

 

[madkaw284]

Im saying I start right off shooting broadheads through paper. I have zero interest in matching a field point to anything.

Field points were designed to save targets.

How do you paper tune a broadhead? And if you’re not shooting field points what do you have to compare your broadhead flight to?
It’s the same with shooting field points, you can’t tell you have bad flight until you compare them to bare shafts if broadheads. All you’re doing is moving your sight to compensate for a bad tune.


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[rodney482]

Its no different than shooting a FP through paper.

How do you paper tune a broadhead? And if you’re not shooting field points what do you have to compare your broadhead flight to?
It’s the same with shooting field points, you can’t tell you have bad flight until you compare them to bare shafts if broadheads. All you’re doing is moving your sight to compensate for a bad tune.


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How do you paper tune a broadhead? And if you’re not shooting field points what do you have to compare your broadhead flight to?
It’s the same with shooting field points, you can’t tell you have bad flight until you compare them to bare shafts if broadheads. All you’re doing is moving your sight to compensate for a bad tune.


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[Billy Goat]

I understand the idea of just shooting broadheads, but I don't enjoy replacing targets. I have an elk target that is over 10 years old now, also one that is only on it's second year. Both are still in really good shape except for the older one being a permanently bedded elk because of an accident.

I'm a believer in practicing for what your doing. So with my hunting bows once I'm sighted in on dots I move to 3-d targets. Gives you a better idea about different shot angles on animals.

 

[Brendan]

Do whatever works for you, that's what's important I guess.

Again my opinion: Paper tuning is a good start, but it isn't perfect. I've started that way, and had to make adjustments to get things flying the way I want afterwards. That's why I find bare shafts easier and then confirm with broadheads. Usually done in one trip to the range unless I have to throw the bow in the press for cable adjustments.

I do agree that you need to practice with broadheads because they aren't as forgiving. I do plenty of that leading up to hunting season.

 

[rodney482]

I also number each arrow/bh combo and each one is tested through paper. Sometimes I have to knock tune and mix and match to get them where I want them. Then each arrow is shot and some arrows / BH never make their way to my quiver.

I understand the idea of just shooting broadheads, but I don't enjoy replacing targets. I have an elk target that is over 10 years old now, also one that is only on it's second year. Both are still in really good shape except for the older one being a permanently bedded elk because of an accident.

I'm a believer in practicing for what your doing. So with my hunting bows once I'm sighted in on dots I move to 3-d targets. Gives you a better idea about different shot angles on animals.

 

[MattB]

Do whatever works for you, that's what's important I guess.

Again my opinion: Paper tuning is a good start, but it isn't perfect. I've started that way, and had to make adjustments to get things flying the way I want afterwards. That's why I find bare shafts easier and then confirm with broadheads. Usually done in one trip to the range unless I have to throw the bow in the press for cable adjustments.

I do agree that you need to practice with broadheads because they aren't as forgiving. I do plenty of that leading up to hunting season.

The thing I have noted over the decades is a lot of guys can't read paper tears very well. Many more don't have consistent enough form to get repeatable tears. I can't tell you how many times I have seen guys post pics on the internet of "perfect paper tear" that weren't. IMO, that is why I personally suggest another method as a check for guys who are tuning for BH's.

 

[Vandal 44]

I must be doing things incorrectly. When I am tuning my arrows. I cut from both ends, square both ends, put all arrows on the RAM spine tester to find the stiff side, bare shaft tune every arrow, nock tune bare shaft (if needed and or make adjustments to the bow via cables), fletch all arrows, then shoot field points and BH. I get them close and call it good. I will more than likely make minor adjustments to the sight a month before season and shoot nothing but BH. I believe there is more than one way to skin that cat


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[N2TRKYS]

I also number each arrow/bh combo and each one is tested through paper. Sometimes I have to knock tune and mix and match to get them where I want them. Then each arrow is shot and some arrows / BH never make their way to my quiver.

What is all this tuning and culling doing for you? For example, is it allowing you to hit the target as a whole or quarter sized dots consistently?

 

[Brendan]

I must be doing things incorrectly. When I am tuning my arrows. I cut from both ends, square both ends, put all arrows on the RAM spine tester to find the stiff side, bare shaft tune every arrow, nock tune bare shaft (if needed and or make adjustments to the bow via cables), fletch all arrows, then shoot field points and BH. I get them close and call it good. I will more than likely make minor adjustments to the sight a month before season and shoot nothing but BH. I believe there is more than one way to skin that cat

This is effectively what I do. Except I shoot a bare shaft again against fletched field points before fletched field points vs. BH. Depending on how far off I am, I twist yokes, use cable guard, shim cams, or move rest to get bare shafts, fletched FP, fletched BH all hitting together. (Other than the long range drop from broadheads, which we've beaten to death)

Then, I practice. Working in more Broadheads as the season gets closer. But, another thing for me - I can't shoot our 3D range or the main range at our club with Broadheads. Field points only, so I guess that's another reason.

 

[bohntr]

Good grief.....a lot of different viewpoints here from many good guys that I know (Rosinbag) and respect (5MB, TonyT, Rodney, etc.). For the original poster.....quit overthinking it. I’m no longer a tournament shooter......I hunt and kill stuff. It’s really that simple. Sight in your bow to perfection with broad heads and go hunt! All I shoot is broadheads anymore.......and I can guarantee some folks would rather replace a target more often than suffer the mental anguish they will encounter when trying to ‘tune’ their equipment to shoot both type of pints the exact same.

BTW, Doug (Rosinbag) is spot on with his conclusions, IMO. I did a very intense test using a Hooter Shooter machine years ago.....field points and any type of broadhead will not fly exactly the same. Physicaly impossible. Some are close, and because humans are not machines and are, by nature imperfect, they ‘think’ they fly the same because they are close enough to satisfy them.

Bottom line, if you’re a hunter, sight in your broadheads and go kill stuff. If you like to shoot 3D as well, either set up a different 3D bow or do what a very successful bowhunter I know does.....have two different sights for each passion (3D and hunting). Simple.

Okay, I’m out!

 

[rodney482]

What is all this tuning and culling doing for you? For example, is it allowing you to hit the target as a whole or quarter sized dots consistently?

It allows me to shoot every arrow/bh combo in practice. I only shoot out to 60 yds.

I shoot individual dots... no groups for me.

 

[N2TRKYS]

It allows me to shoot every arrow/bh combo in practice. I only shoot out to 60 yds.

I shoot individual dots... no groups for me.

I quit shooting grouping early on, as well. I shoot quarter sized dots that I draw on my targets. I've never done any of the tuning like you referenced and was just wondering if it increased accuracy for you.

I practice with my fieldtips because my broadheads hit the same for me in my hunting range. To me, I get the benefit of the practice and mechanics without the unneedlessly tearing up my targets. Judging by this thread, that's not the same for everyone.

After reading all these above posts about what great lengths others are having to go through to get the same accuracy, I feel truly fortunate for not having to do that.

As long as my broadhead tipped arrows spin smooth in my hand, they hit where they're supposed to.

Thanks for the info on your tuning and setup procedures.

Good luck this upcoming season.

 

[rodney482]

Ive had flyers in my combos that spun great and were off by 4” at 50 yds. I want to make sure each arrow in my quiver has an acceptable poi.

I quit shooting grouping early on, as well. I shoot quarter sized dots that I draw on my targets. I've never done any of the tuning like you referenced and was just wondering if it increased accuracy for you.

I practice with my fieldtips because my broadheads hit the same for me in my hunting range. To me, I get the benefit of the practice and mechanics without the unneedlessly tearing up my targets. Judging by this thread, that's not the same for everyone.

After reading all these above posts about what great lengths others are having to go through to get the same accuracy, I feel truly fortunate for not having to do that.

As long as my broadhead tipped arrows spin smooth in my hand, they hit where they're supposed to.

Thanks for the info on your tuning and setup procedures.

Good luck this upcoming season.

 

[N2TRKYS]

Ive had flyers in my combos that spun great and were off by 4” at 50 yds. I want to make sure each arrow in my quiver has an acceptable poi.

Glad you got it figured out.

 

[Billy Goat]

I'm not saying I don't frequently shoot broadheads. I just do most of my practicing in preparation for hunting on my 3-d targets with fp's. But at the start of my course is a bag target, a layered target I use for bareshaft, and a foam target I use for broadheads.

To each their own. I have confidence in each of my broadhead tipped arrows I carry while hunting.

 

[todde1792]

If someone shoots 10 times at the same spot and hits in 10 different spots, then tuning is going to be extremely tough for that individual.

One thing I found for me is that it's much easier to "hold" on one single plane versus trying to hold on a spot. What I mean is, it's a lot easier to hold dead steady on one horizontal line bisecting the pin on that line without worrying about left and right. And that applies to any distance, so it's real easy to see even 1" differences between BH's and FP's if the line was bisecting the pin for each shot. For bisecting pins, a larger pin actually helps and makes it easier to make sure the pin is bisected by the line. The same thing works with a vertical line, not worrying about elevation. This makes tuning and setting pins much easier IMO.

This is such a simple concept and it's going to work great. Thanks for posting this three years ago you've saved me from a self induced headache.

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[Super 91]

I know this in old thread, but I have been struggling some with one bow this year, and I normally can tune these bows up with no issues. I have two 2021 PSE Mach 1's set up at 60 pounds, RH and 29.5" draw. I'm shooting 200 spine Kinetics and with both bows, I tuned the first one in the shop by doing a shim swap to get the cams over to the left more, yoke tune and set the timing right. Set center shot to 13/16 and then paper tuned to a perfect bullet hole with the yokes. Went out and bareshaft tuned at 20 yards and got that right. Then broadhead tuned out to 60 yards and in I'm money right now with this bow.

Bow number two I did the same steps, but can't get my broadheads and field tips to close the gap. Same arrows and everything the same on both bows. When I bareshaft tune, I had to tweak my rest a tiny bit like I did on the first bow, and got them shooting great at 20 yards. I suspect I just need a few more tweaks on my broadhead tune to get them to come together, but this bow seems to be a lot harder to get it to behave than bow number one. Bow number one will be my main bow as I had planned, but I would like to have both tuned before I leave this Sunday. I've been shooting both all summer and field points fly like lasers out of both bows of course.

I'm shooting Exodus swept 100 grain heads, and they are some of the more forgiving heads I've shot over the years. I guess I typed all that to say this. Two exact bows, set up as close to exact as I can still are shooting differently. I even checked all the limb deflections and both bows are set up exactly the same as far as that goes. Rests are timed the same and attachment points on the limbs are at the same place. Same stabilizers, same sights, same quivers, same exact arrows and broadheads. Same string builder as well, and both check out to be perfect on factory specs.

The tune is not so far out that I can't make a few minor adjustments and get my broadheads flying perfectly and sighted in, but they are just off a few inches from each other vs the other bow where they are hitting very close together. And it gets under your skin after a while, but I know I'll eventually get it tuned up.

 

[bsnedeker]

I know this in old thread, but I have been struggling some with one bow this year, and I normally can tune these bows up with no issues. I have two 2021 PSE Mach 1's set up at 60 pounds, RH and 29.5" draw. I'm shooting 200 spine Kinetics and with both bows, I tuned the first one in the shop by doing a shim swap to get the cams over to the left more, yoke tune and set the timing right. Set center shot to 13/16 and then paper tuned to a perfect bullet hole with the yokes. Went out and bareshaft tuned at 20 yards and got that right. Then broadhead tuned out to 60 yards and in I'm money right now with this bow.

Bow number two I did the same steps, but can't get my broadheads and field tips to close the gap. Same arrows and everything the same on both bows. When I bareshaft tune, I had to tweak my rest a tiny bit like I did on the first bow, and got them shooting great at 20 yards. I suspect I just need a few more tweaks on my broadhead tune to get them to come together, but this bow seems to be a lot harder to get it to behave than bow number one. Bow number one will be my main bow as I had planned, but I would like to have both tuned before I leave this Sunday. I've been shooting both all summer and field points fly like lasers out of both bows of course.

I'm shooting Exodus swept 100 grain heads, and they are some of the more forgiving heads I've shot over the years. I guess I typed all that to say this. Two exact bows, set up as close to exact as I can still are shooting differently. I even checked all the limb deflections and both bows are set up exactly the same as far as that goes. Rests are timed the same and attachment points on the limbs are at the same place. Same stabilizers, same sights, same quivers, same exact arrows and broadheads. Same string builder as well, and both check out to be perfect on factory specs.

The tune is not so far out that I can't make a few minor adjustments and get my broadheads flying perfectly and sighted in, but they are just off a few inches from each other vs the other bow where they are hitting very close together. And it gets under your skin after a while, but I know I'll eventually get it tuned up.

I HIGHLY doubt this is the case, but I had a bow that I could not broadhead tune no matter what I did....that bow ended up having a bent riser.

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[Super 91]

Yeah, makes me wonder just a little bit that the riser may be slightly out of spec as well. I have been trying to rule out each thing as I can, and I was down to the possibility that the riser could be the issue, but it seems like it is okay as best as I can check it.