Broadhead weight

RemiR7

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Dec 7, 2018
Messages
237
Hey guys so I’m not the most educated with the whole FOC and mainly because I just haven’t taken the time to dig into a lot of it. I’m looking to bump up my total arrow weight without having to buy new shafts. My current setup is 27”(throat of nock to tip of carbon) Easton axis shafts, HIT inserts, bohning 5” wraps, bohning 2” blazers 3 fletch, nockturnal nock with a 100 gr montec coming in at a total arrow weight of 402 gr and slinging them is a Prime Centergy at 26.5” DL, 70lb DW. Im wondering for you guys that are educated on FOC if I’m able to get away with throwing a 150 gr head up front to get into that 450 range just going off these numbers.
 

Btaylor

WKR
Joined
Jun 3, 2017
Messages
2,443
Location
Arkansas
What spine easton shaft? Going from a 100 grain head to a 150 grain head may make your setup weak enough it doesnt fly great. You could still go to the 150 head but may need to switch to feather rather than vanes if you need to stiffen the arrow up with the 150 head out front. If that doesnt compensate quite enough, you probably have room to take a half to full inch of shaft off the back end to add additional stiffness. You may not need to make any of these changes depending on the shaft you are shooting. Just throwing these things out there as adjustment options if needed for your current shafts rather than immediately going to buy new arrows.
 
OP
RemiR7

RemiR7

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Dec 7, 2018
Messages
237
My bad they are Easton axis 400 spine shafts
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2013
Messages
3,066
Just not going to happen with a 400 spine shaft. Maybe a 125 will still shoot since your arrows are shorter but I highly doubt a 150 will shoot. There are also 0.204" diameter weights you can screw into the back of your insert with a special long allen wrench. Gold tip makes them for 0.204" diameter arrows and possibly some others. I use the standard diameter weights to add 40 grains to the back of my inserts and still shoot 100 grain heads.
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
15,592
Location
Colorado Springs
There are also 0.204" diameter weights you can screw into the back of your insert with a special long allen wrench.

The back end of the HIT inserts aren't threaded.

Just find some 150gr FP's and see if they'll tune.

You could still go to the 150 head but may need to switch to feather rather than vanes if you need to stiffen the arrow up with the 150 head out front.

Going to feathers would just weaken the spine more. He'd have to add weight to the fletching end to add stiffness.
 

Beendare

WKR
Joined
May 6, 2014
Messages
8,296
Location
Corripe cervisiam
I dunno why so many guys fall into this trap with running as light a spine as possible.

Remi, I wouldn't get all wrapped up in FOC...its one of the least important factors in Archery, IMO.

I would go to a heavier spine arrow...and a heavier BH for the many advantages.

Just setup a jig for your sight with each respective arrow and use the light ones for 3D shoots.
 
Last edited:

Btaylor

WKR
Joined
Jun 3, 2017
Messages
2,443
Location
Arkansas
The back end of the HIT inserts aren't threaded.

Just find some 150gr FP's and see if they'll tune.



Going to feathers would just weaken the spine more. He'd have to add weight to the fletching end to add stiffness.

Yeah that was a bonehead. I went feathers on my setup to soften the spine a touch, you'd think I could post that crap right. :mad:
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2018
Messages
323
I see your from the Midwest. I would not think twice about your set-up working more than fine for deer sized animals. If you really want to add more weight, it's pry going to have to be up front. In that case your best bet to not weaken the spine too much would be to remove the insert and get the arrow cut to a shorter length. Look at this spine chart for determining which route to go. Gold Tip - Spine Selector
 
OP
RemiR7

RemiR7

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Dec 7, 2018
Messages
237
For whitetail it works and works fine as long as you stay away from the shoulder. I generally do an September time frame hunt to kick off my hunting season(October here in IL) and generally I take a couple weeks and have done antelope in the past and the set-up has worked fine for them also, but a few trips being successful my annual trip is now going to be a September elk hunt and looking to bump up weight for them without having to buy new shafts, but the more I read I think I’m going to have to just buy new shafts to get the weight I’d like.
 

jaximus

FNG
Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Messages
24
Location
north of 8, wisconsin
for your specs, you really should be in a 340 spine. if you moved, you could so a lot of really neat things with total weight and weight distribution.

theres a lot of benefits to FoC, so i would suggest you build that way. being that you appear to mainly be a whitetail guy that ventures west (correct me if im wrong), i would say that insert weight would be a more desirable build method than a heavier head. you can use your existing heads and adjust the insert weight to reach your mass. it gives you more options overall. if you build for heavy heads and light inserts, you cant match that head weight in a big mech for deer or turkey (or goose). i shoot a lot of different species with my bow, so a good arrow system with the ability to change the broadhead based on my target is very important.

i use a 475gr gold tip xt hunter 340, 100gr head, 100gr of brass, 27" of carbon from a 29"/60# e35.
 

NYSKIER

WKR
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
382
Location
New York
I would agree with what a bunch of the guys above me have said and increase your spine. If you but that much weight on that spine arrow I believe it is going to fly funky. If you want you can test it out and see what happens but I for one think you should go up in spine
 

Bill V

WKR
Rokslide Sponsor
Joined
Jan 24, 2017
Messages
485
Location
Colorado
You could possibly add an Iron Will Impact Collar to your current setup as is. It adds 25 grains but also reduces your flexible arrow length by 1", so effectively increases your spine at the same time. I've been using them for years to strengthen the end of the arrow with HIT inserts. If you want more weight than that, I would switch to a stiffer spine. I doubt you would be disappointed in doing so.
footers2.jpg
 

NYSKIER

WKR
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
382
Location
New York
You could possibly add an Iron Will Impact Collar to your current setup as is. It adds 25 grains but also reduces your flexible arrow length by 1", so effectively increases your spine at the same time. I've been using them for years to strengthen the end of the arrow with HIT inserts. If you want more weight than that, I would switch to a stiffer spine. I doubt you would be disappointed in doing so.
View attachment 84751
Never seen those before that's a pretty cool concept
 
Joined
Jan 29, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Texas
This is actually a specialty of mine, including a bunch of animals getting whacked with adult arrows on my you tube channel.

You will not be able to run 150 broadheads, consistently on a 400 spine arrow. Most shops underspine folks, to get the speed, speed, SPEED going. They are lower GPI. Field points are liars.

Hit system is the absolute WORST thing ever made for hunting. It is literally floating inside the shaft unsupported. I have a friend who tore the front of 6 shafts from where the broad head “was” to the Hit, which left still attached to the broadhead. He spent a bunch of money on arrows, doesn’t hunt a ton, this was over a couple years, on heavy bone impacts, on pigs, 5 of them at night, when shot placement can vary....! (animals have a lot of bones apparently). I’ve torn one on a small pig who pole vaulted my 1,035 grain FMJ DG on a “texas heart shot that exited his sternum”
I will now provide a solution.

You want 300 spine arrow, choose your flavor except for anything with a HIT and I forgot, FMJ’s are garbage..maybe I didn’t mention they are not good. Either go aluminum or don’t.

Here’s how you can tune them. Bare shaft, nock tune, at 10 yards or so.

 

neil.hansford

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 12, 2014
Messages
277
Location
Montana
You've been given some good suggestions here, and I'll throw one more that no one has mentioned. If you're comfortable with your current set-up, and can consistently hit where you aim, just use it. If you hit an elk behind the shoulder with that set up, it will work. If you hit him IN the shoulder, a 450 grain arrow isn't going to make much difference. I've killed several with sub 400 grain setups.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Jan 29, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Texas
Absolutely, If you hit them perfect, everything works. Mechs, skeet loads, everything. I killed a pile of critters in Africa 10 years ago, shooting 425 grains, from a pit blind, perfectly set up, 18 yards....yup. Target practice.
but what...about....this IF thing?
The hunting situation is incredibly dynamic, including this thing called blood pressure, adrenaline, and general FREAKING OUT with a bull screaming at you or the biggest deer you've ever seen. The target animal is an incrediby dynamic combination of soft, hard, bone, bone angles, multiple possible bone structures, maybe mud, hair, etc. A rutting bull lacks hygiene.

I get a pile of private correspondence starting with "bonked the shoulder on the biggest deer of my life and I am looking to at least increase the odds of that not happening". Honest people who really want to punch their tag. No one they know offers a solution except "you can't break bones with an arrow and you need to shoot better". Truly kind of sad.
Because - its old fashioned to blame ourselves......but I am old fashioned so here we go.

You might pull a shot, or a combination of YOU screwing up the shot and: the animal might step, jump, roll or just stand there like a 3-D target and you still pulled the shot. You may shoot perfectly and the animal may: step, jump, drop, roll, or stand there like a 3-D target.
You don't know.

From a treestand the most common thing is a very accurately RELEASED arrow and the deer dropping and rolling. This pulls the shoulder blade down, heavier bone is now in motion, behind the shoulder is ribs or spine or both, the animal and its annoying bones.....are moving in a lateral direction, compare to the direction of your arrow.

It's just a consideration - not throwing flames here, you don't need to jump off the bridge and shoot 700 grains.

The 150 grain head and a change to a COC will help your odds, adding 100 grain inserts behind that 150 grain head....oh man, you're talking exponential gains.

Rule #1 - skeet or adult arros. Make sure your arrows are flying awesome.
 

MattB

WKR
Joined
Sep 29, 2012
Messages
5,464
Hey guys so I’m not the most educated with the whole FOC and mainly because I just haven’t taken the time to dig into a lot of it.

Honest opinion, you are better off keeping that way. IMO FOC doesn't quite reach the level of a fad, but it's not far off.
 
Top