Broadheads consistently hitting left of FP, regardless of moving rest

[nphunter]

I had the same issue with a prime shift, The only way I was able to fix the issue was to add inside grip pressure, essentially slightly press on the inside of the riser with your thumb. There was a big write up when prime first came out about adjusting grip for better flight. Essentially you need to find a grip that allows for better flight, if thumb pressure fixes it will show you need a deeper grip, rolling your wrist counter clockwise into the bow. By adding pressure or using a deep grip you are not allowing the bow to naturally torque as much which should fix your flight issue, the hard part with doing this is that you will have to learn that grip and adjust your form to always use a grip that may not be your natural comfortable grip.

If you look at the below Pictures of Dave Cousins you can see what I’m talking about. The picture of him shooting his Hoyt you can see clear separation between his thumb and fingers as he has a pretty typical archery grip. In the picture of him shooting his prime you can see he has a much deeper grip and his thumb is rolled around the grip so it actually touches his fingers out front.

I fought this issue the entire time I owned my prime, it may be because I shoot Hoyt for a long time prior and had muscles memory of a certain grip. I eventually ended up going back to a Hoyt and couldn’t be happier, I like a bow I can adjust to how I shoot vs trying to adjust how i shoot to fit a certain bow. Some people have great luck with the Prime bows, a lot struggle with the same thing you are struggling with.

You could adjust your sight over to work with your broadheads and not worry about it, that is what most do anyways.

Hope this is helpful and good luck.

 

[Brendan]

I’ve got enough clearance. I ran some clearance tests last night and didn’t find any marks indicating fletching contact. I can tighten it down more than I can loosen it. Should I tighten or loosen it?

Tighten flexis all the way down and move rest left.

 

[sneaky]

Nope. Prime requires different cams to adjust DL. I’ve always shot 29” DL, never had a problem. Not saying it’s not the issue, but that is the last resort.

You can do minor DL adjustment with those cams by changing draw stop position, but you'll change your letoff as well.

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[TheCougar]

Tighten flexis all the way down and move rest left.

So far I have tightened my flexis all the way and the rest is about 15/16s from the riser. Everything is walking left (FP, bareshafts, and BH), but nothing is moving closer to the FP. BH still left and bareshafts still hitting left with point left and nock right. I passed thru walk-back tuning at 7/8ths. Tomorrow I’ll push past an inch from the riser. It’s like breaking the sound barrier. Not sure what happens on the other side...


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[sneaky]

What distance were you shooting through paper? Do a fletched and bare shaft at a couple feet, then back up to 7-10 yards and see which way the shaft is coming out and how it's correcting at a little further out. You can change grip and try this as well.

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[DB29]

So far I have tightened my flexis all the way and the rest is about 15/16s from the riser. Everything is walking left (FP, bareshafts, and BH), but nothing is moving closer to the FP. BH still left and bareshafts still hitting left with point left and nock right. I passed thru walk-back tuning at 7/8ths. Tomorrow I’ll push past an inch from the riser. It’s like breaking the sound barrier. Not sure what happens on the other side...


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Did you try going the other day way with your flexis? Having a right tear I would think the flexis needs to go out, moving the cables towards the tear. Also, if moving your flexis all the way in moved your shot left, I would thing going the other way would move it right and hopefully also bring your BH into your FP and straighten out the BS nock right issue.

 

[Ucsdryder]

is there someone else that can shoot it? Is there a pro shop open? You can figure out the grip deal if someone else shoots it and gets the same tear in paper. I know some guys swapped around limbs as well.

the flexis isn’t going to fix that issue. The flexis will male MINOR adjustments at long distances.

 

[Brendan]

The fix for me has always been cams right, (flexis tighter / to the right does this on a small scale) or rest left but it doesn't hurt trying the rest the other way.

First time with this bow for me I was over 1" to get it to tune, but I did end up swapping the limbs and swapping cam spacers to shim as much as I could. Flexis is usually for fine tuning though, I usually leave it in the middle of it's travel and use it at the end. Old thread from AT with multiple people having this issue with this bow:

Center shot too far left?

www.archerytalk.com

How did you test for contact? Spray foot powder on rest, cables, and vanes?

 

[TheCougar]

The fix for me has always been cams right, (flexis tighter / to the right does this on a small scale) or rest left but it doesn't hurt trying the rest the other way.

First time with this bow for me I was over 1" to get it to tune, but I did end up swapping the limbs and swapping cam spacers to shim as much as I could. Flexis is usually for fine tuning though, I usually leave it in the middle of it's travel and use it at the end. Old thread from AT with multiple people having this issue with this bow:

Center shot too far left?

www.archerytalk.com

How did you test for contact? Spray foot powder on rest, cables, and vanes?

yup, contact tests were negative. My local bow shop is closed, and I don’t have a bow press, so swapping limbs and shims isn’t something I can do for a while.

 

[2Stamp]

I know some guys swapped around limbs as well.

the flexis isn’t going to fix that issue. The flexis will male MINOR adjustments at long distances.

I had a bad tear I couldn't get rid of on my Centergy Swapped the limbs and boom, perfect, and the flexis took out my minor tear. My Centergy Hybrid didn't need that.

 

[TheCougar]

I had a bad tear I couldn't get rid of on my Centergy Swapped the limbs and boom, perfect, and the flexis took out my minor tear. My Centergy Hybrid didn't need that.

I’ll definitely try that. Thank you

 

[EASTEXASARCHER]

You are way underspined for that set up. You need a B.E. 250 spine. I have half a dozen that I built for a similar set up that I would part with.

Specs:

B.E. Rampage 250 Spine - 28" carbon to carbon
B.E. Stainless Half Out w / 75 gn. brass weights
B.E. R-Nocks
AAE Max Stealth Vanes
Weight without points is 406

 

[TheCougar]

I wanted to close out this thread... I gave it the old college try. I spent 12 hours over 2 days tearing the bow down and building it back up. Swapped limbs, put in spacers, checked timing, checked specs, checked spine - everything. I found and fixed a lot of things, and got about 1/2 of the problem fixed, all under the tutelage of the archery shop owner. But at the end of the day, a couple of guys in the shop could get the bow to paper tune for them, but I couldn’t get rid of a 1 1/2” nock right tear, no matter what I did with my grip, what type of release I used, what the poundage was, etc. I knew it was over when I grabbed two elites, a Prime Black, and a Mathews Vertix off the wall - and with incorrect DL and arrow spine, I was perfectly papertuned within 5 minutes. After 2 years, I finally threw in the towel. In a fit of clearheaded-panic over a decade long wait elk hunt that started in exactly 4 weeks, I shot and bought a VXR 31.5. An hour of setup later, the bow almost has a perfect tune and all my problems are behind me. My Prime has been retired to backup bow status until I can trade it for another bow that works for me.

 

[Billy Goat]

I wanted to close out this thread... I gave it the old college try. I spent 12 hours over 2 days tearing the bow down and building it back up. Swapped limbs, put in spacers, checked timing, checked specs, checked spine - everything. I found and fixed a lot of things, and got about 1/2 of the problem fixed, all under the tutelage of the archery shop owner. But at the end of the day, a couple of guys in the shop could get the bow to paper tune for them, but I couldn’t get rid of a 1 1/2” nock right tear, no matter what I did with my grip, what type of release I used, what the poundage was, etc. I knew it was over when I grabbed two elites, a Prime Black, and a Mathews Vertix off the wall - and with incorrect DL and arrow spine, I was perfectly papertuned within 5 minutes. After 2 years, I finally threw in the towel. In a fit of clearheaded-panic over a decade long wait elk hunt that started in exactly 4 weeks, I shot and bought a VXR 31.5. An hour of setup later, the bow almost has a perfect tune and all my problems are behind me. My Prime has been retired to backup bow status until I can trade it for another bow that works for me.

If it doesn't work for you, it doesn't work.

Plenty of effort put in to determine that. I did that once. Never again. If I have much issue with tuning something it's gone.


Congratulations on the new bow, it's a good one.

 

[Jimbob]

I wanted to close out this thread... I gave it the old college try. I spent 12 hours over 2 days tearing the bow down and building it back up. Swapped limbs, put in spacers, checked timing, checked specs, checked spine - everything. I found and fixed a lot of things, and got about 1/2 of the problem fixed, all under the tutelage of the archery shop owner. But at the end of the day, a couple of guys in the shop could get the bow to paper tune for them, but I couldn’t get rid of a 1 1/2” nock right tear, no matter what I did with my grip, what type of release I used, what the poundage was, etc. I knew it was over when I grabbed two elites, a Prime Black, and a Mathews Vertix off the wall - and with incorrect DL and arrow spine, I was perfectly papertuned within 5 minutes. After 2 years, I finally threw in the towel. In a fit of clearheaded-panic over a decade long wait elk hunt that started in exactly 4 weeks, I shot and bought a VXR 31.5. An hour of setup later, the bow almost has a perfect tune and all my problems are behind me. My Prime has been retired to backup bow status until I can trade it for another bow that works for me.

I went through the same process with my Hoyt CST this spring. I spent a lot of time with it and in the end, I bought a Mathes Vertix and I have never been shooting better.