BroadHeads for Elk hunting

[wysongdog]

I'm thinking about changing broadheads for the upcoming elk season. I want to try the Iron Will broadheads. My question is are they worth the money and if so which series should I try?

Thanks.

I shoot the IW heads and absolutely love them. Shot a eland, warthog, rather large bull elk and their performance was perfect. Had to shoot my eland 4 times as my first shot was too far back. Left him overnight came back the next morning, shot him in his bad angling down, shot was perfect, he got up ran 33 yards and stopped so I shot him again, complete pass thru blood pouring out of him, still standing so I shot him again another pass thru. That was the end of him. Bent 3 of the tips of the main blades hitting rocks after the animal. Shot Bill a email telling him about it and ordered 3 main blades because it wasn't his fault I hit a rock. He wouldn't take my money just sent me new main blades because his blades are warrantied against that.. Great customer service.
All that being said, I also have Slick trick vipers as back up and they are great as well. I'm old school and believe in fixed blades just because there's nothing to go wrong compared to a expandable but, I think the expandables have come a long way and a lot of folks have great luck with them. Just my thoughts.

 

[Elkchaser54]

Magnus Stinger buzz cut . Solid piece of metal . $34 for 3 . Worked well for me. Lifetime warranty

 

[Roughwater]

I just saw some (New to me) broadheads out of Australia yesterday that look like they could be a good choice for cheap. Cheap anyway compared to the Iron Wills and Day 6. They look similar to the Iron Wills in that they have a Tatoo style blade. They are made by Alien Archery. I liked the look of them and after seeing a video review I ended up between me and a local friend ordering 12 of them for 83 dollars on Ebay. I was really thinking Day 6 but if these things fly well they may be what I end up using this year to hunt with. There is a video of them right here on Rockslide worth looking at:

https://www.rokslide.com/forums/threads/alien-matrix-2bt-broadhead-test-vid.165509/

 

[Jayfire83]

For the money, I have been extremely impressed with Kudu points on the last two bulls I've harvested.
Penetration and durability have been great

 

[MaxHenderson]

For the money, I have been extremely impressed with Kudu points on the last two bulls I've harvested.
Penetration and durability have been great

What grains are you using?


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[Elk97]

I started shooting Tooth of the Arrow XL. Four blade, more consistent flight than the Exodus I have and the torture tests on them are impressive. Anyone have any first hand experience with them on an elk?

 

[Jayfire83]

What grains are you using?


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Was using 100gr but recently changed to the 125gr on my new arrow build.

 

[Okhotnik]

Ive seen more than one elk lost on supposed good shots on elk with iron will heads. Any good proven COC head will work. Many have been around over 40 years. Weird how much guys will obsess over this.

 

[MaxHenderson]

Was using 100gr but recently changed to the 125gr on my new arrow build.

I’m seeing great flight out of my 100gr Kudus


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[TradLife406]

200 gr Iron Will solid, 60# Stalker Coyote Longbow at 40 yards. Double lungs. I ended up shooting three more animals with the same setup. Love the IW!

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[TAArrowood]

Elk are tough, thick skinned, big boned animals. Any broad head that is razor sharp, adequate size attached to a moderately heavy arrow from a perfectly tuned bow and a shooter who knows how to shoot and executes the shot perfectly can kill an elk quickly.. Start eliminating any of these and other favors I've not mentioned and you're talking about a slower kill and longer track job.. We all owe it to ourselves and especially the animal we hunt to dispatch it quickly and humanely.. We should all try to eliminate every variable and factor that would stack the odds in our favor once the shot opportunity arrives.. Pratice your shooting, get in shape, know your equipment and it's capability, know your own limitations, choose the best equipment you can afford and know why you bought it... Set rules for yourself as to what shots you'll take and what you won't take.. For me hunting (especially elk) is an awesome experience and is 100x more rewarding if you know the kill is 100% the result of you're skills vs the instinct/senses of the elk..

 

[standard_lengthy]

Personally; when I find a quality broadhead at Walmart for $3.00; I'm buying. I bought every Slick Trick broadhead in stock for about that price a couple of years ago, and when they restocked I bought them out again. I kept going in to see if I could get more even though I already had a lifetime supply. Camofire often has some good broadheads at a good price.
I don't care to buy some very expensive broadhead when I can get high quality at about 10% of the cost.
There are a lot of good broadheads available on the market. Certainly saying you tipped over an elk in 300 yards is nothing to brag about. I dropped one two season back and it never left the spot it was standing when I hit it. Last season one went 135 yards before it tipped over. Any good broadhead will get the job done. It's up to you to decide how you spend you money. All I am saying is that elk shot with any quality broadhead will be just as dead with one brand as another.

I liked slick tricks a lot, even shot a couple deer with them this year. MY biggest problem is that they are like disposable razors, one and done.


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[TSAMP]

So it seems cut on contact is pretty unanimous. Which suprises me. Im no elk hunter but had a bad experience with a cut on contact mechanical head and switched to a "chisel tip" mechanical years ago and havent looked back. However i do find myself looking at these threads as i like the idea of the fixed blade head if a pass through doesnt happen it can still be in there doing damage, or more damage as its removed. Which is a feature i dont have with my current mech.