Broadheads Way off the Mark

Beendare

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Corripe cervisiam
This comment was made above - you have to move the rest in very small increments sometimes, and shoot multiple groups making sure you're really making a good shot. Depending on the bow, and the tear / direction of miss you're getting, using the rest can be a lot harder than using cams / yokes / etc.

But, don't be afraid to try both directions if you're not getting results. I documented this a couple years back - for me when rest was to the right of where it needed to be, it was very, very clear cut with the fix. But, when rest was left of where it needed to be, it wasn't nearly as clear cut, I think due to nock travel which is why I think people have a hard time sometimes. That, and being able to make a consistent shot...



Great comment^ and in my experience its right on the money.

Paper tuning with FP's has a wider range of what works than an exact tune with BH's. This screws a lot of guys up. It could be you went past a perfect tune with paper testing.....thus per tuning guides.....you are continuing to move the rest in the wrong direction. If you are moving it more and more from recommended centershot....time to reassess.

The other part of the above- moving the rest- is critical. I typically don't need to move my rest more than 1/8" for perfect tune.....so I move in 1/32" increments. A guy moving it too much might overshoot.

Sometimes the shooter is inconsistent....giving bad readings. If your bow lurches to the side....or wobbles in your hand after the shot...or you are gripping on the shot....all of those indicate a form error.

____
 

fatlander

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Feb 11, 2016
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For what it’s worth, I’ve never had any luck moving the rest. Yokes/shims/top hats are how I always tune for horizontal nock travel. Set your rest down the center of the bow, and then tune the bow with the yokes. That’s why they’re there.

You really cannot tune a bow without a press, and finding a shop that will really take the time (or even has the know how) to tune your bow is another issue too.


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Ctitus25

Ctitus25

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Jan 17, 2018
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Lochbuie, CO
Thanks everyone, I'm hoping to get into my pro-shop later this week where they can help me troubleshoot this and make any adjustments needing a press.
 

nphunter

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Jul 27, 2016
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Do I think I’ve sorted it out. I left in the rest adjustments that I had made, then changed my tip from 125 to 100 and they started grouping.
Could you post your, draw length, arrow length and spine/type? Also if you’ve added any weigh to the front, brass, collars etc.

It would be helpful info for others to see. I’d also like to run them and see if they show weak just for my own knowledge.
 
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Ctitus25

Ctitus25

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 17, 2018
Messages
251
Location
Lochbuie, CO
Could you post your, draw length, arrow length and spine/type? Also if you’ve added any weigh to the front, brass, collars etc.

It would be helpful info for others to see. I’d also like to run them and see if they show weak just for my own knowledge.
Sure. My draw length is 27.5 at 70#, arrow length 26.5. These are Day Six HD 350 three fletch with the 50gr insert(aluminum)
I had Iron Will S125’s on it when I was having my tuning issue, at the request of my pro shop I threw on some 100gr heads I had and it pulled the groups together.
 
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