Cheek riser thoughts

[Marbles]

So, I'm toying with two options for a cheek riser on my Kimber Montana.

First, as I'm already going to paint the stock, use microballoons as a thickener in West System 105 and build a permanent riser onto the stock. Top it with a single layer of fiberglass cloth for durability. Should easily be less than 2 oz of added weight. This is what I'm inclined to do at the moment, but it semi-permanent.

Second, pick up a sheet of kydex and some screws and fabricate something like what is sold by Matthew's Fabrication. Not sure how much weight this would add. Reason to fabricate myself would be to minimize the amount of material, I don't have a need for the amount of adjustment built into his; to customize it to the Montana stock; and use low profile stainless steel hardware.
https://matthewsfabrication.com/product/adjustable-kydex-cheek-rest/

I have a PIG pack by SKD tactical I got after reading the thread "What cheek riser is everyone running?" and "Stock pack vs kydex cheek riser. It is nice, until it gets soaked, then it takes forever to dry and carries dirt and mud about until I pull it off and wash it. It also adds 6.8 oz; plus 1.7 oz of duck tape to build up the comb under it. Duck tape alone would work, but I would like a more aesthetically pleasing solution.

Any thoughts or other options I should consider?

Anyone know how much the kydex options weigh?

Any idea how well the Montana stock (or any other fiberglass stock) holds up with holes drilled through it? Would I need to epoxy a metal sleeve in the holes if using the kydex option?

 

[Tod osier]

I think your weight estimate for microballoon and epoxy build up covered by 'glass is a bit of an underestimate, still probably lighter than the stock pack (especially when wet), but not by that much. My guess is that a piece of light glass and epoxy to cover will weigh 2 ounces in itself. I don't know if a glass cover is even needed, microballoons in epoxy is pretty tough. You could grind to shape, sand and then coat with just epoxy and then sand to accept paint.

On a kydex piece, I don't see why you can't rivet it on. Done right, I think it would be a plenty clean and professional look.

Having said all that (read: blah, blah, blah), I have a couple rifles that need risers and I just use beartooth comb raising kits. I like the squishiness/softness (and ease). They don't hold a lot of water, but they do get wet. They look clean enough, better to me than a stock pack. You can get them with shell holders, if you like that kind of thing. For a rifle with a single stack mag, I get a plain one and can slide the second mag under it with excellent retention (I know not useful for your Kimber). I tape the foam inserts on with duct tape and that holds them in place and shapes them nicely, the beartooth sleeve is just a cover to clean things up.

 

[Lawnboi]

Keep in mind there is a reason most risers are removable. You need to take them off to clean and sometimes even remove the bolt.

For that reason I’d go kydex. Personally I’d just buy the Mathews fabrication with flat hardware, drill some holes, maybe bed a couple aluminum posts and be done.

 

[Ram94]

Check out Bradley Cheek risers. Removable kydex. I had no complaints when I was using one.

 

[LaHunter]

Keep in mind there is a reason most risers are removable. You need to take them off to clean and sometimes even remove the bolt.

For that reason I’d go kydex. Personally I’d just buy the Mathews fabrication with flat hardware, drill some holes, maybe bed a couple aluminum posts and be done.

^^^
What he said.

 

[Mule3006Elk]

Kydex. I have 2 hunting rifle. I put a riser on one of the rifles. I wasn't sure if I was going to like it. It's been on there for a season. Definitely adding one to the 2nd rifle.

 

[ericwh]

I made a kydex riser. It works well. I made it out of 3/16" material expecting it to be flimsy and not wanting it to flex - 3/16" is thicker than necessary.

I used hardware like this. It is essentially smooth on the outside:

Everbilt 1/4 in. x 50 mm Bronze Steel Narrow Connector Bolts (4-Pack) 801834 - The Home Depot

Designed to connect two pieces of wood in furniture applications, this Bronze Steel Narrow Connector Bolt easily installs with a pre-drilled hole and connecting nut (not included). Appropriate for indoor

www.homedepot.com

Everbilt 1/4 in. x 12 mm Antique Brass Connecting Cap Nut 817918 - The Home Depot

Designed to connect 2 pieces of wood together, often in furniture applications, this Antique Brass Connecting Cap Nut easily installs using a pre-drilled hole and connecting bolt (not included). Requires

www.homedepot.com

 

[JollyRoger]

I’ve been really happy with my Bradley cheek piece. It’s solid. And removable. Might be worth a look.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tradman]

I used a mouse pad, cut it up into strips adjusted the height I needed tapped it on and slid a holder over it. Soft comfortable and works. Been on for about 7-8 years now

 

[wind gypsy]

I either use the beartooth one with riser pads taped in place underneath it or the Armageddon gear cheeky bastard. Neither are perfect but they are lighter, more comfortable, and less fugly (IMO) than kydex and you don't need to put holes in your stock.

AG Cheeky bastard is what I'd buy if I needed another for a hunting rifle. It is easier to remove if wanted for cleaning.

 

[Santa]

I love the Beartooth comb riser I put on my Fierce Edge CT. Lightweight, adjustable, fits snug, and feels great. Most importantly for me...I didn't have to put any extra holes in my rifle.

 

[BBob]

Do yourself a favor and find Joe Ducos aka stockdoc and see if he can do a KMW hardware install on your stock. It adds ~5oz for the complete job. Joe is really fast and does awesome work and is far easier than doing it yourself. I used to do my own but I'm glad to save the time for things I'd rather be doing and give it to the guy that does this all day long. Both Joe and the Terry Cross KMW hardware have long track records of quality and trouble free.

Joe Ducos aka stockdoc: [email protected]

 

[Marbles]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

Anybody have any experience with the Hill People Gear stock cuff? https://hillpeoplegear.com/Products/CategoryID/8/ProductID/43

I think your weight estimate for microballoon and epoxy build up covered by 'glass is a bit of an underestimate, still probably lighter than the stock pack (especially when wet), but not by that much.

Very well could be. I was assuming (with microbaloons) it would be lighter than the same volume of duck tape.

Ok, so I did some math rather than continue assuming.
-The West System 105 using 207 hardener has a density of 1.15 g/cm^3.
-The microbaloons have a density of 0.1-0.6 g/cm^3 (I used 0.4 g/cm^3 for my estimate).
-This gives me a syntactic foam density of 0.775 g/cm^3 (range of 0.625 to 0.875 g/cm^3).
-I need about 28 cm^3 of fill. This puts the syntactic foam at 21.7 g (range 17.5 to 24.5 g).
-1 square foot of fiberglass cloth comes in at 19.8 g (I will probably only be using about 0.55 ft^2).
-The expoxy wet out for the fiberglass cloth will be under 10 mL (11.5 g).
-Total estimated weight comes out to 53 g [range 30.0 g (using 0.55 ft^2 of fiberglass and 3 mL wet out) to 55.8 g] or 1.9 oz (1.1 to 2.0 oz).

 

[gexpro]

Bradley cheek rest. made in the US, awesome guy.

 

[WKR]

Another vote for bradley cheek rest.
I have one on my x bolt and it's great.
It was around $115 but you know the old saying
Buy once cry once

 

[madcalfe]

I use the beartooth bullet holder on my stock. I got a new scope and had to go to a rail and rings and cut a piece of foam out from one of my old scope boxes and slid it in. Works great.

 

[Marbles]

Well, I decided on the permanent route as I already have the stock stripped for painting (and if I don't like it I can just sand it off). Total added weight with a layer of fiberglass comes out to 32.9 g (1.16 oz). There is still a little finish work left, so a gram or so might end up being sanded off still. Much better than the 8.5 oz of the stock pack.

I ended up using a few grams more syntactic foam than I estimated (23.9 g). This was largely due to underestimating the volume required due to the curve of the butt and how the butt is wider in the back than the front. However the weight of the fiberglass layer came out much lighter than estimated (9.0 g) and even if I added a second fiberglass layer it will come in under my 2 oz target.

There is plenty of clearance for bolt removal. However, the action will need to come out of the stock for cleaning. Seeing as I'm largely giving @Formidilosus advice on cleaning a go, this is not an issue for me. Besides, after my last hunt I pulled the action from the stock and washed it (the action and barrel) under the kitchen faucet. Unlike Form, I am still running an oiled patch down the bore on occasion, such as after washing it in the sink.

I will also note, the previous butt pack was enough of a pain to remove that I preferred to pull the action than remove the butt pack by a large margin.

 

[Varminterror]

Victor Company USA. Embed the screw anchors in the stock, then it will remain adjustable for other users or other optic heights. No annoying and ugly straps, no knobs on the side, just a nice, clean aesthetic.

 

[Rockwell]

Varinterror that certainly is clean looking, so can you walk us through how you bedded your nuts, I'm assuming you may have used some sort of T-nut? Also could address if there is a gap bwtn the side flaps and the stock?

 

[Varminterror]

@Rockwell - no problem!

First, your last question: no, there is not a gap on the sides on this stock.

Installation on a composite stock: First, I determined appropriate position which allows the bolt to be removed without removing the cheek riser, and marked the screw holes. Since this is a fiberglass shell stock, I used a (leveled) centering jig to drill the holes, chased with a step drill to achieve the desired diameter for the thread unions. This stock was filled with low density foam, so I scratched out some of the fill with a curved pick and poured epoxy footings.



I then drilled into the footings and sank the threaded unions into the epoxy support, epoxied in place. I grooved the unions with a file and used my curved pick to groove the footing to ensure the threaded unions would be secure in the footings (not that this is a high load application).




I have these also on a few stocks for my son - super simple, drill a pilot hole and use wood screws to secure the cheek riser. Honestly, I think I prefer sinking the threaded anchors, so will do that for all of my future installs. I have also installed two of these in polymer stocks, for those, I remove the buttpad, flip the stock upside down, rough the inside slightly, use clay to dam the area for the footing, then pour the epoxy into the top of the stock, before drilling and installing the threaded anchors.