Choosing A bullet?

[Glockster26]

Obviously I’m a fairly new reloader. When you guys start working up a round do you just pick a bullet that you like and play with the powder charge to get the accuracy and velocity you want or try to emulate a factory load?
Or do you just try a whole bunch of shit and see which one works out the best?

 

[LaHunter]

I pick a bullet based on my intended purpose of my rifle as my first step. You need to make sure your twist rate is adequate for your chosen bullet also. From there you can select 1-3 different powders, based on manuals and trusted sources.

 

[Rob5589]

Pick a bullet, grab 2 or 3 recommend powders, start loading. Generally I check the bullet and powder manu websites for load data and go from there.

 

[Northernpiker]

Try a few different bullets, they can make a difference in accuracy.

 

[Glockster26]

I’m getting hung up on paralysis by analysis. I’ve narrowed it down to Nosler 90 BT or Hornaday SST that I would like to try.
I shoot 90 gr ELD-X factory ammo now. They are acceptable just wanting to fine tune.

 

[MThuntr]

I’m getting hung up on paralysis by analysis. I’ve narrowed it down to Nosler 90 BT or Hornaday SST that I would like to try.
I shoot to 90 gr ELD-M factory ammo now. They are acceptable just wanting to fine tune.

243?...To be honest the two bullets are so similar you could flip a coin and not go wrong. That being said I tend to let economics come into play when I can't decide...sometimes Shooters Pro Shop has Ballistic Tips dirt cheap, sometimes Midway and/or MidSouth have Hornady factory seconds dirt cheap.

Most of the time I pick a bullet for intended purpose and then try to match the powder. Sometimes I overdo it with buying an unproven bullets and powder since I sometimes can't find what I need without some serious driving. That's where reloading get really expensive...buying several different powders and bullets for 1 rifle. Luckily after several experiments I have many powders to at least do proof of concept testing for a lot of different rifles.

 

[menhaden_man]

Funny! Ideally you pick a bullet, but I find myself just trying a bunch of shit to see what works best. Some things are just easier (like 6.5) and others much more challenging (like gas guns).

I had one gun I was just about to give up on, then on a whim tried a much lighter bullet and the rifle went from garbage to surprisingly accurate. You might just try what you have... and if it doesn't show promise after a few reloading sessions, take a swing at something a little different.

 

[Glockster26]

243?...To be honest the two bullets are so similar you could flip a coin and not go wrong. That being said I tend to let economics come into play when I can't decide...sometimes Shooters Pro Shop has Ballistic Tips dirt cheap, sometimes Midway and/or MidSouth have Hornady factory seconds dirt cheap.

Most of the time I pick a bullet for intended purpose and then try to match the powder. Sometimes I overdo it with buying an unproven bullets and powder since I sometimes can't find what I need without some serious driving. That's where reloading get really expensive...buying several different powders and bullets for 1 rifle. Luckily after several experiments I have many powders to at least do proof of concept testing for a lot of different rifles.

Yep on the .243. The gun range that sells powder and reloading supplies that is close mainly stocks Hornady bullets but they can order other stuff. I think I think I’ll just experiment with the SST and see what I can come up with.

 

[6mm Remington]

You seem to like and be in the 90gr. range for bullets for the .243. The 90gr. Nosler Accubond would be an excellent one to try as would the 90gr. Nosler E-tip.

 

[Glockster26]

You seem to like and be in the 90gr. range for bullets for the .243. The 90gr. Nosler Accubond would be an excellent one to try as would the 90gr. Nosler E-tip.

If I could spin them I’d like to try the 105 and 108 match bullets but with 1-10 I know that’s not realistic.
I’ll check those out as well, thanks.

 

[Laramie]

My family has had performance out of the 95 grain SST in factory Hornady Superformance loads - deer size game and down. Haven't reloaded but they are accurate even out of the shorter barrel women's model we have.

 

[6mm Remington]

If I could spin them I’d like to try the 105 and 108 match bullets but with 1-10 I know that’s not realistic.
I’ll check those out as well, thanks.

6mm Remington - 90 gr. Nosler E-tip - 350 yards one shot! Son's first elk.

 

[wind gypsy]

Obviously I’m a fairly new reloader. When you guys start working up a round do you just pick a bullet that you like and play with the powder charge to get the accuracy and velocity you want or try to emulate a factory load?
Or do you just try a whole bunch of shit and see which one works out the best?

Step 1 - Pick a bullet.

I choose a bullet based on 1. desired terminal performance 2. ballistics (BC and velocity potential) 3. how it works within the barrel twist, chamber throat, and magazine length constraints.

Step 2 - Pick a powder

I typically pick a hodgdon extreme series powder of the proper burn rate - not much you cant get to shoot with varget, h4350, H4831, or H1000. If wanting more speed you might choose a high energy powder like RL 17, 26, 33 or Viht 5 series powders. In general, the trade off can be less temperature stability and some are harder on barrels.

Step 3 - pick a primer

Typically start with a 210m or 215m or CCI for LR or LRM primers and CCI 450s almost universally for SRP.

Step 4 - buy the best brass available for your given chambering.

Step 5 - develop a load with your well chosen quality components without mixing a bunch of other variables.

 

[AZ_Hunter_2000]

+1 on Wind Gypsy's steps.

My personal opinion is that you should clearly define what you are wanting to achieve and then proceed with making it happen. Sometimes there is a compromise between what you want versus reality.

I just went through this process for a 6.5 CM (completed and just need to be picked up) and a 6.5 PRC (initial stages of load development).

 

[1shotgear]

When shooting at distance, the number one factor to consider is wind! When we pick a bullet for a certain cartridge, we try to pick the bullet with the highest BC possible that we can push between 2800-3000 fps to maximize wind performance. For example, if we were loading for a 7mm Rem Mag, we would more than likely pick the 180 grain Berger VLD. High B.C., heavy for caliber bullets buck the wind and lose velocity at a slower rate which translates to higher impact velocities and more energy at distance!

 

[JRMiller]

Depends on if hunting and what game.
For big game decide what max effective range you think you’ll need for that caliber.
Then look at Min bullet expansion velocity of various bullets
Some are at 1600fps (like Eldx)
Some are higher than 2200+ like monos (all copper)
For an ethical kill, the bullet must fully expand at the max range you decide you feel comfortable as a shooter
Example: if you decide you want to or need to drop a moose at 800 yards you must be certain the bullet you have chosen will fully expand even at 800 yards, i.e. it should arrive at the animal at no less than it’s minimum expansion velocity.
After that just do typical load development (ladders etc.) until you find a combo that both meets your expansion requirements and accuracy expectations

 

[Mosby]

I used to buy alot of different powders and bullets at a time and over engineered the process. I shot weekly and went through a couple of barrels. My brother keeps it simple. He shoots 165 gr Speer Grand Slams for everything he hunts. They are reasonably priced and shoot well in his rifles. He uses 4064 powder in a 30-06 almost always but he uses the same powder and bullet in his Win Mag as well. Thats pretty much it. He is a woods hunter and most of his shots are under 100 yds for elk or deer.

I normally start with one brand of powder and no more than two bullets. Typically a Reloader powder because they work well in my powder measure. Of all the different bullets that I have shot, Barnes have been typically more accurate in my rifles than others so I normally start there. I normally hunt with either Barnes or Nosler bullets. I have all brands of brass but prefer Norma or Lapua.

Only change one thing at a time. If I can't get a rifle to shoot after 3 or 4 different combinations, I either get rid of the rifle or re-barrel it and start over. Life is too short for an inaccurate rifle.

 

[Rich M]

I tried the 90 gr Game Changer and it shoots 1.5 inch. 100 gr partition is 1.5 inch. 100 gr ProHunter is 1 inch. 120 yd to target.

Trying 95 gr partition and some diff bullet lengths on 100 partition and ProHunter loads.

Not trying for long range load, just a comfy 400 yd load. Hoping 95 partition makes a diff.

 

[6mm Remington]

I tried the 90 gr Game Changer and it shoots 1.5 inch. 100 gr partition is 1.5 inch. 100 gr ProHunter is 1 inch. 120 yd to target.

Trying 95 gr partition and some diff bullet lengths on 100 partition and ProHunter loads.

Not trying for long range load, just a comfy 400 yd load. Hoping 95 partition makes a diff.

Might try the 90 gr. Accubond also. Man that is a great bullet also and they seem to shoot well. In a 243 or 6mm Remington I would not be afraid to shoot any deer or antelope out there, and with good shot placement and reasonable distance even an elk. The 95 gr. Partitions would be superb also as would the 90 gr. E-tip. If non of those work which I am pretty sure you will find at least a couple that shoot well, maybe even try the 85 gr. Partition. That too would work well on antelope and deer.

I've had great luck with IMR4350 and I suspect that H4350 would work just as well. H4831SC with the heavier bullet such as the 95 and 100 gr. would work also.

 

[6mm Remington]

I tried the 90 gr Game Changer and it shoots 1.5 inch. 100 gr partition is 1.5 inch. 100 gr ProHunter is 1 inch. 120 yd to target.

Trying 95 gr partition and some diff bullet lengths on 100 partition and ProHunter loads.

Not trying for long range load, just a comfy 400 yd load. Hoping 95 partition makes a diff.

I shot this bull with a 100 gr. Nosler Partition out of my 6mm Remington in the timber shown at about 30 yards. I didn't want him running down anyplace as I had to pack him up to the top of the ridge as it was so I shot in on the point of his right shoulder. He was slightly angled and the bullet went through the shoulder and exited out the left side of his neck just in front of that shoulder. He staggered only a couple steps after the shot and dropped. He was done but I put one more at the base of his ear just to be sure. He was dressed out by the time the pic was taken and blood on snow always looks like a lot more than it is. Sorry the picture is not very tasteful.