Colorado setup?

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Looking for a great open sight distance set-up (100-300 yard) and bullet/load for Muleys in Colorado. Usually hunt with sabots and a scope so I need to redo my rig. T/C Pro Hunter. Any thoughts.
 
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MathewsBull
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I hear 200-250 is about tops. Just wondering what people are using to maintain accuracy when they’re pushing it. Realizing powder burn and barrel length have a lot to do with it and the rifles only as good as the person behind it.👍
 
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Gosh man I've never seen anyone admit it shooting 250 @ a live animal with open sights?
Especially on deer size game.
Here is a pick of a drop chart @sabotloader posted for me.
2" high @ 100 is 18" low @200 if it even stayed on the same curve and added another 16" that's 34" drop at 250, no way there deer is going to even be in the sight window.
Not saying it cant be done.
90460-MTNEx.jpg
 
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I have a stainless CVA Optima, and plan to shoot a 300 grain Hornady FPB at a muley this year in CO.

I already have a rear aperture sight, but I'll be looking to replace the front fiber optic with a globe to see how I like it. Even then, my max for those 300 grainers and open sights will be 150 and 200 only if I need to get another round in an already wounded deer. Even with a scope and sabots, my Optima doesn't impress me that much at 200 yards, which is my self-imposed absolute limit on TX whitetails with that rifle.
 
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MathewsBull
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I’ve heard shimmed Williams FP rear and a globe front works well. Just wondering if anyone else has used it or something different. I know just getting rid of the factory sights is a must.
Usually shot pellets with sabots but that’s a no go for CO.
 
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I've fallen in love with BH 209 out of my Optima. The fiber optic front sight doesn't bother me at all. It's one of the better f.o. front sights I've had on a rifle, and when paired with my rear aperture sight, it's actually pretty good. better in low light than any globe sight will be, so I would be surprised if the globe works better for me actually. Plus with a small front bead, you can use the top of the bead for your zero range, and figure out the holdover for the bottom of the bead. That can be darn handy.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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I'm running BH209 with thor 300gr. I have a lyman front globe with the fine lee shaver crosshair up front and an eabco peep rail in the rear, the peep rail gets the needed vertical height the williams peep lacks and also allows a scope to be put on the gun for use out of colorado without screwing with the open sights. With the fine crosshair I can still see a clay pigeon at 150yds (ie the cross hairs don't cover it fully) and subsequently hit said pigeon. As noted though eyes are the limiting factor for me, the gun itself with that bullet/load shoots rather tight.
 

Schism

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I'm running BH209 with thor 300gr. I have a lyman front globe with the fine lee shaver crosshair up front and an eabco peep rail in the rear, the peep rail gets the needed vertical height the williams peep lacks and also allows a scope to be put on the gun for use out of colorado without screwing with the open sights. With the fine crosshair I can still see a clay pigeon at 150yds (ie the cross hairs don't cover it fully) and subsequently hit said pigeon. As noted though eyes are the limiting factor for me, the gun itself with that bullet/load shoots rather tight.

I use the same setup on my CVA Accura V2, except that I shoot a 250 Thor instead of the 300. Someday I'll try the 300 but Terry didn't have any in stock last spring so I stuck with the 250's. Accuracy was excellent. 3-shot groups consistently measured 3" when shooting from a bench with a front bag.
 
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I'm running BH209 with thor 300gr. I have a lyman front globe with the fine lee shaver crosshair up front and an eabco peep rail in the rear, the peep rail gets the needed vertical height the williams peep lacks and also allows a scope to be put on the gun for use out of colorado without screwing with the open sights. With the fine crosshair I can still see a clay pigeon at 150yds (ie the cross hairs don't cover it fully) and subsequently hit said pigeon. As noted though eyes are the limiting factor for me, the gun itself with that bullet/load shoots rather tight.
How much daylight do you need to use that front globe crosshair against a dim background?
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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How much daylight do you need to use that front globe crosshair against a dim background?

Not sure I'd need to pull it out at dusk and look, its been mid day shots while hunting so far on the setup. I suspect even if the crosshair was hard to see as long as the target could be seen getting it centered in the globe circle probably would still be feasible assuming its not a long shot.
 

Schism

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How much daylight do you need to use that front globe crosshair against a dim background?

I know you didn't ask me but I have experience with this so I thought I'd throw my $.02 in.

The biggest downfall to the Lyman globe front sight is the inability to see the front sight in low light conditions. I estimate I lost up to 20 minutes of legal shooting light (depending on conditions) with the globe setup. That time will vary depending on shot distance but it's a pretty good average based on hunting the entire CO muzzy season last year from dawn to dusk.

I am using the Lee Shaver small post insert in the Lyman globe. A cutout on the top of the globe to allow light in, and/or a small fiber optic pin (similar to archery) would be ideal. I have considered going back to the OEM front sight in conjunction with the EABCO peep rib for my next muzzy hunt.
 
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I know you didn't ask me but I have experience with this so I thought I'd throw my $.02 in.

The biggest downfall to the Lyman globe front sight is the inability to see the front sight in low light conditions. I estimate I lost up to 20 minutes of legal shooting light (depending on conditions) with the globe setup. That time will vary depending on shot distance but it's a pretty good average based on hunting the entire CO muzzy season last year from dawn to dusk.

I am using the Lee Shaver small post insert in the Lyman globe. A cutout on the top of the globe to allow light in, and/or a small fiber optic pin (similar to archery) would be ideal. I have considered going back to the OEM front sight in conjunction with the EABCO peep rib for my next muzzy hunt.
You've pretty much convinced me already to keep my current setup - a Williams rear peep and the factory front fiber-optic sight (which I don't hate). I'm not willing to give up even 10 min. of light on either end of the day for a marginal gain in distance or accuracy.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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You've pretty much convinced me already to keep my current setup - a Williams rear peep and the factory front fiber-optic sight (which I don't hate). I'm not willing to give up even 10 min. of light on either end of the day for a marginal gain in distance or accuracy.

All depends on what you're using the gun for, if its critters at the fringe of hours sure, if its critters that are out all day but harder to close in on then accuracy at distance is handy. Sounds like the former is best for you. :)
 

Schism

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@pods8 hit the nail on the head with his last comment.

It's a good day to live and be into muzzy's with all the options we have for rifles and accessories. It's not overly difficult to find a setup that works for each hunter's needs.
 
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I ran an Accura MR in CO this past season--

REAR: EABCO peep rib
FRONT: Lyman globe, Lee Shaver #17, TWO inserts-- the skinny post and the fine circle/crosshair. This gave me a clearly contrasted thin post for fine aiming and the circle/crosshair for getting on target quick or in low light.

LOAD: 300gr Harvester Sabertooth, 80gr (by weight) BH209

Two 100 yard shots- 1 elk, 1 mule deer, both died within 40 yards. Pass through on the deer in the timber and on the elk I found the bullet in the far offside hide.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Curious what you'd consider muleys to be.

Probably more of a terrain issue and hunt style than anything. But I was saying sounds like for your hunts you prefer that larger front sight, where as something like pronghorn muzzy I'd absolutely take distance accuracy over 10min of light since dawn/dusk are fairly irrelevant hunting them, so the type of hunt maters a bit on preferred setup. That was all. :)
 
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Probably more of a terrain issue and hunt style than anything. But I was saying sounds like for your hunts you prefer that larger front sight, where as something like pronghorn muzzy I'd absolutely take distance accuracy over 10min of light since dawn/dusk are fairly irrelevant hunting them, so the type of hunt maters a bit on preferred setup. That was all. :)
Ah, gotcha. Yea, for pronghorn I can definitely see the value of sight over light, so to speak.

I do like the front FO bead on my Optima though. It's smaller than a lot of FO beads, and I find it's more useful to me for aiming both at 100 and 150-ish yards.
 
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I use the finest front fiberoptic bead I can get and use the “6-O’Clock hold”. In other words put the bullseye on top of the post instead of covering the bullseye with the front bead. Went from 4-5” to 2-3” at 100 yards with that change.
 
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