Cutthroat Sharpening Question.

[RaggedHunter]

I am giving the cutthroats a try this year, They are shooting great out of my bow, grouping right with my field tips out to 75. But I have some questions about sharpening them as I have never messed with single bevels.

I bought the KME broadhead sharpener. Although I'm already wishing I had just bought the KME knife sharpener, I have read that the broadhead sharpener will do the trick.

1: I have a smiths fine diamond stone, and I built a leather strop out of an old piece of leather. What other stones should I get? Do I need a course or medium stone? Do I need an extra fine stone? Or can I get good results with just a Fine Diamond stone?

2: How do you sharpen the tanto tip on the cutthroats? Do you give it special attention when sharpening, or will it get sharp when hitting the main blade? This is my main concern when it comes to sharpening these heads, not sure how to treat the tanto tip.

Any other tips or tricks for sharpening the cutthroats/ single bevels in general is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[dkime]

You will probably want a more aggressive stone, file, or 400grit sand paper to work up a burr if you even have any serious heavy lifting you want to do. You could do this with a fine diamond as they are typically pretty aggressive, but once they break in you don't want to be simply relying on that diamond the entire time. I'm not sure what grit your fine stone is but don't worry about an extra fine stone, if you want to go crazy just pick up varying degrees of grit compound for your strop sections and you'll be just fine. I don't worry about tanto tips much just because they're really there for strength in the tip of the blade as opposed to cutting. Don't get me wrong I will normally sharpen them too just because of my own personal issues but don't obsess over it.

 

[RaggedHunter]

You will probably want a more aggressive stone, file, or 400grit sand paper to work up a burr if you even have any serious heavy lifting you want to do. You could do this with a fine diamond as they are typically pretty aggressive, but once they break in you don't want to be simply relying on that diamond the entire time. I'm not sure what grit your fine stone is but don't worry about an extra fine stone, if you want to go crazy just pick up varying degrees of grit compound for your strop sections and you'll be just fine. I don't worry about tanto tips much just because they're really there for strength in the tip of the blade as opposed to cutting. Don't get me wrong I will normally sharpen them too just because of my own personal issues but don't obsess over it.

I hadn't thought about sand paper, that's a good idea. Does it have to be wet or dry paper, or will any paper work? I might pick up some 400 and 1200 grit to fill the gaps for the time being.

That's reassuring that you don't have to go crazy on the tip. I'm like you and I will probably end up sharpening it anyway, but I'll try not to obsess too much.

Do you sharpen them by hand? Or do you use some sort of a guided system? If you use a guide, Do you have to readjust the broadhead in the clamp to hit the tip?

Thanks a bunch.

 

[dkime]

I hadn't thought about sand paper, that's a good idea. Does it have to be wet or dry paper, or will any paper work? I might pick up some 400 and 1200 grit to fill the gaps for the time being.

That's reassuring that you don't have to go crazy on the tip. I'm like you and I will probably end up sharpening it anyway, but I'll try not to obsess too much.

Do you sharpen them by hand? Or do you use some sort of a guided system? If you use a guide, Do you have to readjust the broadhead in the clamp to hit the tip?

Thanks a bunch.

I only use sand paper and a leather belt anymore and I run them dry, I use the stay sharp guide for every head I use anymore. It makes life so much easier and gets things ridiculously sharp. You would have to adjust the head to get the tip but I would probably just do that by hand


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