Day Six - must spin?

[Billy Goat]

You may need to go back and review cause you’re wrong on several of your points.

Sorry, our reading comprehension must be lacking then.

 

[Billy Goat]

Pretty amusing thread.

Anybody on this site saying they shoot 2" at 50 with regularity is full of shit; doesn't matter what's on the pointy end. 15 arrows into 3" at 55 "with regularity" will get you a contract worth about $200,000.

Technically it's 50 meters, but yes.

 

[Reburn]

Sorry, our reading comprehension must be lacking then.

Says the guy from VA to the guy from AL.

 

[wapitibob]

50 meters or 55 yards won't make a bit of difference in this case.
After 50 years of target archery I'm amazed at how well people suddenly started shooting when the internet and nobody else keeping score became a thing.

 

[Billy Goat]

Says the guy from VA to the guy from AL.

Sorry, I did imply I could read. It was more everyone else.

I put the small things together and with this fancy device I can copy and paste big words in google or the redneck dictionary to figure them out.

 

[N2TRKYS]

Nope I know I'm for sure not wrong. However you dont mean near enough to me to waste a bunch of time proving you said those things buy going back and re-reading months of threads.

Just saying the guys that talk the most BS are the last to actually put up their skills or lack there of. There are some nationally ranked archers on here and state champs you disagree with what they say on the regular. They just dont flaunt their skills and wins on here because when you do you will for sure have a bad day of shooting and look like a complete jackass.

You cared enough to make the claims. Lol. I only give my experiences that I’ve had. I can’t help that those experiences don’t mirror yours.

 

[pk_]

IMO just buy decent pre-fletched arrows setup by a shop and hunt with the ones that hit the bullseye...

OR, go all in and buy all the tools/equipment to fine tune your high end shafts/components. If you feel it’s needed for your hunting and shooting wants or needs.

I geeked out on it a few years ago and built some heavy shafts and realized I didn’t want/need to bother with it (it becomes it’s own hobby which I don’t have time for) and went back to ‘pre-fletched crap’ I believe is the proper term around here and surprisingly the animals have seemed to be indifferent.

Good luck.

 

[Reburn]

You cared enough to make the claims. Lol. I only give my experiences that I’ve had. I can’t help that those experiences don’t mirror yours.

I dont care that your experiences don't mirror mine. I just get tired of your BS. You claim to shoot as well as a professional archer. I was just simply stating show us mere mortals how the pros do it.

Now your making me call you out with screen shots to prove the things you claim.

#1A proof - https://www.rokslide.com/forums/threads/80-vs-85-letoff.205371/page-2#post-1998919


#1B proof - https://www.rokslide.com/forums/thr...ws-technically-why.193342/page-2#post-1877972


#2 proof - https://www.rokslide.com/forums/threads/left-vs-right-helical.200125/#post-1941440


#3 proof that you do tune your bow and that I was kinda wrong there. https://www.rokslide.com/forums/threads/ez-v-bow-sight.193554/#post-1875037
But then you say that you tun so good you dont have to micro tune your rest to get FP and broadheads hitting together which those of us that do know its BS. Micro tuning is almost always required. Or going back and further yoke tuning with broadheads which you said you dont do. You just can NOT get exact with top hats or shims. It will get you very close but not exact. Espically not to your standard of 2" group at 50 yards.




#4 and #5 are out there but I'm tired of screen shotting you.

 

[Reburn]

Maybe I'm just picky. But those dont like holes from 2" groups and there is broadheads all over the target. Maybe your bow aint as in tune as you claim. Maybe those 006 shafts are affecting your accuracy sir.

Arrow rotational energy

When you notice this difference in rotating nocks, is it with field points or broadheads only? I do it with new shafts before I ever Fletch them. I get them cut and ready to go other than the fletching, then shoot them until I get the same impact point at 20-25 yards. If they are going off...

www.rokslide.com

 

[Billy Goat]

@N2TRKYS here is what it amounts to. It seems the advice you give here is to not follow the advice of others. I'll be the first to admit that I go down worm holes in anything related to archery, and I take things way further than they need to go for most. However many with experience know that some things do matter. Several of us put a lot of work into our archery, likely the same that you do your turkey hunting. Problem is you make claims that I would think have to be a bit exaggerated. Kinda like me going on about the tom I killed at 77 yards with my copper plated lead #7's. It's completely possible that it happened at some point, that one pellet managed to hit the perfect spot, but we both know it's a bit unreasonable to expect to kill turkeys with lead 7's at 77 yards from my 28 gauge. Now with the right choke, testing different handloads, playing with wads, and changing that lead out for some TSS, the scenario might be a little more believable. Not at all saying the differences are as drastic as that, but there's definitely differences in what several of us do versus not doing a thing.


I'm not doubting you can shoot a 2" group with your thunderheads @ 50 yards with your .006 arrows. I use to do it myself, however that's not the true average of your groupings. It's like carrying that one target around that you made a 3 shot group that were in a perfect little clover leaf, many guns end up doing that, they just can't do it back to back. People like to cherry pick stuff, it's in our nature. Just you can come across pretty brash about it. Likely all of us can.

 

[N2TRKYS]

@N2TRKYS here is what it amounts to. It seems the advice you give here is to not follow the advice of others. I'll be the first to admit that I go down worm holes in anything related to archery, and I take things way further than they need to go for most. However many with experience know that some things do matter. Several of us put a lot of work into our archery, likely the same that you do your turkey hunting. Problem is you make claims that I would think have to be a bit exaggerated. Kinda like me going on about the tom I killed at 77 yards with my copper plated lead #7's. It's completely possible that it happened at some point, that one pellet managed to hit the perfect spot, but we both know it's a bit unreasonable to expect to kill turkeys with lead 7's at 77 yards from my 28 gauge. Now with the right choke, testing different handloads, playing with wads, and changing that lead out for some TSS, the scenario might be a little more believable. Not at all saying the differences are as drastic as that, but there's definitely differences in what several of us do versus not doing a thing.


I'm not doubting you can shoot a 2" group with your thunderheads @ 50 yards with your .006 arrows. I use to do it myself, however that's not the true average of your groupings. It's like carrying that one target around that you made a 3 shot group that were in a perfect little clover leaf, many guns end up doing that, they just can't do it back to back. People like to cherry pick stuff, it's in our nature. Just you can come across pretty brash about it. Likely all of us can.

The point is to let new guys know that you don’t have to spend $200 for arrows to kill stuff at normal archery ranges. For someone just getting into it that doesn’t know, it can get a little overwhelming when they read some of the uber tuning stuff that folks like to do. Nothing wrong with the uber tuning if that’s what you like to do, but just telling them it ain’t mandatory for shooting accurate arrows.

 

[N2TRKYS]

Maybe I'm just picky. But those dont like holes from 2" groups and there is broadheads all over the target. Maybe your bow aint as in tune as you claim. Maybe those 006 shafts are affecting your accuracy sir.

Arrow rotational energy

When you notice this difference in rotating nocks, is it with field points or broadheads only? I do it with new shafts before I ever Fletch them. I get them cut and ready to go other than the fletching, then shoot them until I get the same impact point at 20-25 yards. If they are going off...

www.rokslide.com

View attachment 288721

Hey, look how’s living rent free in your head.

 

[Billy Goat]

The point is to let new guys know that you don’t have to spend $200 for arrows to kill stuff at normal archery ranges. For someone just getting into it that doesn’t know, it can get a little overwhelming when they read some of the uber tuning stuff that folks like to do. Nothing wrong with the uber tuning if that’s what you like to do, but just telling them it ain’t mandatory for shooting accurate arrows.

No, I definitely get that. I felt like sometimes that's the point you tried to argue, I just don't think it was always articulated very well.


Fact of the matter is this is a gear oriented site. All things matter, just some more than others. I know guys who torque tuned and didn't see a difference in their scores from it so they stopped doing it. I also know some who only do it with certain bows because that bow is finicky. I'm of the opinion that a lot of these little things we do aren't that critical for most shots, but in a hunting situation you need to have the bow setup to be as forgiving as possible. Same as a tournament bow when you are in a shoot-off.


You don't need to have the most technical equipment to shoot 30-40 yards. But I do think no matter how much money you put into it, be it $300 or $3000 you should have put the time in to be the best you can. I cringe at people who "try" a 50 yard shot. Unfortunately those are frequently people who really don't put too much effort into their shootin'. The guys who put the effort and time in frequently don't mind spending the extra money, tho I'm not saying all do. Plenty of guys have a setup they have used for 6 years and are very proficient with it, I think Robby fits that narrative. He drives a 25 yo truck to haul his horses, hasn't changed arrows but once in 15-18 years and has probably only shot two different bows in 20 years. He gets it done. But I'm willing to bet he spins his arrows and makes sure that his equipment is setup correct, likely buys straight arrows as well.


Again, like I have said before, it's one thing to not have straight arrows when they don't have wings on the front. I'd be willing to bet there's a handful of people on this site that I could give arrows that are .012 straightness and they will out shoot 98% of the people who visit this forum on a field course. But you just don't get the same level of consistent accuracy out of arrows that don't have the straightness when they have wings on the front and back of the shaft. I can put them in a shooting machine and prove that over and over again. There's things you can do to help it, but they just still won't hold the grouping that a straighter arrow will. Lots of components fall into this same category.


For the record I don't spend very much money on my hunting arrows, but I do spend a lot of time on them. Chasing x's I spend a lot of time and money.



Edited to correct auto-correct.