Different anchor point for long range?

SquidHC

Lil-Rokslider
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Mar 10, 2017
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Portland, Oregon
So I've been shooting out to 120 a lot more often recently and am struggling a bit. Basically, as you angle your bow upwards, your peep gets closer and closer to your eye. This is also true for up hill shots. This really screws things up for me getting my peep and sight aligned properly. Anyone have any good references or suggestions dealing with peep alignment, form, or other info on shooting at steep uphill angles with a bow?

Thanks.
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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It's easy to still shoot 120 by bending at the waist to get the elevation you need, but for steep up hill shots that's not as practical. Just got to practice those steep up hill shots and know your limitations with that as well. I find that I shoot a little high on the steep up hill shots, so I aim accordingly.
 
Joined
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Humboldt county
So I've been shooting out to 120 a lot more often recently and am struggling a bit. Basically, as you angle your bow upwards, your peep gets closer and closer to your eye. This is also true for up hill shots. This really screws things up for me getting my peep and sight aligned properly. Anyone have any good references or suggestions dealing with peep alignment, form, or other info on shooting at steep uphill angles with a bow?

Thanks.

Shooting 120 on flat ground is completely different then shooting up hill. on flat ground your body and arms should make a T no matter what distance your shooting, angling back to get extra yardage is a good way to mess up your form. Eventually you will get to a point where your anchor point will have to move at that great of a distance, I'm talking MM's here not Inches. Most guys set their sliders up somewhere in the middle (40-60 Yds). It will feel a touch cramped at 20 and a touch sloppy at 100, but it promotes the least amount of movement overall, which means more repeat-ability and more accuracy.

For up hill or down hill shots your peep shouldn't be getting closer to your eye. Your arm is not what moves the bow, your waist is. so you draw like you are on flat ground(Straight ahead) then you bend at the waist to match the terrain. you want to get your arms as close to level with the ground as you can without ever moving your arms, this will help you maintain your anchor's and promote accuracy. Its a difficult thing to do, so practice is best.
 

EsteemGrinders

Lil-Rokslider
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Oct 3, 2016
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Oregon
One thing I do regardless with my hunting bow is set my peep height at 30-35 yards. This helps some but you will still have to drop your anchor some. Or if you just training and all your shots are gonna be long range adjust your peep for the long range stuff.
 

kcm2

WKR
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Feb 26, 2012
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Anything that requires thinking under stress is bad. Same anchor, do something else
 

EsteemGrinders

Lil-Rokslider
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Anything that requires thinking under stress is bad. The Same anchor, do something else

Normally I would totally agree but at least for me, it is impossible to shoot at to 100 or 120 with the same form (nonbow arm) I use shooting 20-80.That said is me using a single pin sight and 480g+ arrows. Something has to give somewhere in my experience.

If you have any tips I am all ears. Fire away!!!
 
Joined
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Maryland
Move your rear foot back half a step farther than normal it will help with maintaining your alignment. Other than that I am a Trad shooter so I can't help with the peep, although the increase in stance might help with that as well.
 

xcutter

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Connersville, IN
Something I have done in the past for this is looking above my peep. So the hole above your peep where the string is split for the peep. This will lower your anchor in turn making you hold the bow higher.

I personally wouldn't do this hunting. I can shoot some awesome groups like this on targets though.
 

N2TRKYS

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We're all hunting at those distances. It's all hunting until we decide to start shooting, then the hunting is over and it's all shooting.

I'm not.

What's the point of practicing at those ranges, if you have to change from the way you're gonna shoot at normal hunting distances? Consistency is the most important thing to me in my shooting. I shoot some long distance while practicing, but not to the point that I have to change my form to do so. It's my point of deminishing returns.
 

Tilzbow

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Reno, NV
I'm not.

What's the point of practicing at those ranges, if you have to change from the way you're gonna shoot at normal hunting distances? Consistency is the most important thing to me in my shooting. I shoot some long distance while practicing, but not to the point that I have to change my form to do so. It's my point of deminishing returns.


The point is long range practice will show your flaws and more importantly it's fun! Getting good at 100 yards makes 50 feel like a chip shot.
 

EsteemGrinders

Lil-Rokslider
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Correct For myself I want to be able to group within no more bigger than a size of a paper plate at twice the distance I will be hunting at. For me, I would be hard pressed to take a shot over 50 yards on an Elk. Been there done that not doing it again.
The point is long range practice will show your flaws and more importantly it's fun! Getting good at 100 yards makes 50 feel like a chip shot.
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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You're not? Ok, you're standing 120 yards from an elk with a tag in your pocket. Are you hunting or are you shooting?

As for off-season shooting, I shoot a lot. And I find most anything under 50 yards to be really boring. If all I had to shoot was 20 yards indoor, I'd give it up.
 

N2TRKYS

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You're not? Ok, you're standing 120 yards from an elk with a tag in your pocket. Are you hunting or are you shooting?

As for off-season shooting, I shoot a lot. And I find most anything under 50 yards to be really boring. If all I had to shoot was 20 yards indoor, I'd give it up.


The places I've been, I couldn't see 120 yards. Lol
 

Brendan

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You're not? Ok, you're standing 120 yards from an elk with a tag in your pocket. Are you hunting or are you shooting?

As for off-season shooting, I shoot a lot. And I find most anything under 50 yards to be really boring. If all I had to shoot was 20 yards indoor, I'd give it up.

You need to stop arguing over terminology. Pretty obvious he's saying he's not going to take a shot at that range and is going to try to "hunt" his way in closer before "shooting" at his target , and that he doesn't think it's worth messing with his form to practice at a range he'll never use in the field.

Me personally- I bend at the waist for those longer range practice shots, even on flat ground, because it's good practice and reminds me to watch my form for uphill or downhill or treestand shots.
 
Last edited:

chindits

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We're all hunting at those distances. It's all hunting until we decide to start shooting

It's okay, I appreciate your humor. I hunt at a couple miles with optics, but I haven't shot an arrow at a target over 55 meters this year. I probably haven't shot an elk over 25 meters with a bow and one at less than half that distance. It's early and I got spring chores to do.
 

wapitibob

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Bend Oregon
It's physically impossible to use the same anchor and have a centered peep for 20 yards and 120 yards, unless you have a monster peep hole size. Even then the pin/dot can't be centered using the same anchor.
 

kcm2

WKR
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Feb 26, 2012
Messages
345
So, somebody help me here. Shooting at 120 yards with a different anchor shows flaws in your form, when you normally shoot using a different form?
 
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