DIY Footers

[Don Qui Puncher]

I’ve been building footers for all my arrows for this upcoming season. Two years ago I hit a shoulder and the arrow snapped above the HIT insert, hopefully these will eliminate that from happening. You’ll need a square, tube cutter, drill and deburring tool, all can be had for cheap online. First I set the length on the square usually 1-1&1/2 inches, score the edge with a razor, slide the tube cutter wheel into the groove and cut the arrow, once I cut all 12 i chuck the footer in the drill and smooth it on the HIT stone then I take the deburring tool and round the edges by hand, the edge when you drill isn’t as fine as by hand. I do both ends so pulling out of a bag is no problem. All 12 are within .1grains of each other.
These are the shafts I’ve found that work for these arrows.
Axis 300-Easton camo hunter 2018
Victory RIP300&Axis340- Easton eclipse 1914
VAP 250’s & injection 330- Camo hunter 1816
VAP 300’s- Easton platinum plus 1714

 

[MikeG]

Thanks for the excellent write up! I'm about to experiment with making some myself. I was just going to taper some epoxy on the ends to transition, but the deburring tool makes it even smoother it seems.

 

[Don Qui Puncher]

Yea the deburring tool makes a super smooth transition

 

[TimberHunter]

Thank you! I was just about to buy some footers but now I’ll make some!

Do you buy the one shaft to make footers through landcaster? Is 1.5” footers the most effective at strengthening the front of the arrows in your experience?


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[Don Qui Puncher]

Thank you! I was just about to buy some footers but now I’ll make some!

Do you buy the one shaft to make footers through landcaster? Is 1.5” footers the most effective at strengthening the front of the arrows in your experience?


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yes Lancaster is great they sell singles there like 5$ a shaft, a lot of the diameters I couldn't figure out so I told them what I was trying to do and they gave me the exact shaft I needed they were super helpful, id use whatever you can get away with on the length of your arrows and your rest. I had mine at 28.5 with 1.5 footers but I cut back to 28 and 1.25, which arrows do you have?

 

[Don Qui Puncher]

I have found with the 300 axis the larger field point is the exact diameter of the footer I think it’s 5/16, I beveled the back end and squared the front end and it’s a perfect surface for field points and Broadheads

 

[TimberHunter]

yes Lancaster is great they sell singles there like 5$ a shaft, a lot of the diameters I couldn't figure out so I told them what I was trying to do and they gave me the exact shaft I needed they were super helpful, id use whatever you can get away with on the length of your arrows and your rest. I had mine at 28.5 with 1.5 footers but I cut back to 28 and 1.25, which arrows do you have?

I’m looking into either axis or injexion. With my bow specs I’m on the border of 340/330 and 300. My bow tends to shoot the 300s with broadhead closer to my field points. The 340/330 arrows are usually a few inches to the right at 45/50 yards with broadheads.

Would you think this footers increase or decrease the spin of the arrow? It adds point weight which reduces spine but it’s adding more wall thickness to the arrow which I believe increases the spin stiffness


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[Super 91]

Very nice! That ought to really help protect that end of the shaft, and make it that much tougher! Thanks for the sizing info too! Very helpful!

 

[Don Qui Puncher]

I’m looking into either axis or injexion. With my bow specs I’m on the border of 340/330 and 300. My bow tends to shoot the 300s with broadhead closer to my field points. The 340/330 arrows are usually a few inches to the right at 45/50 yards with broadheads.

Would you think this footers increase or decrease the spin of the arrow? It adds point weight which reduces spine but it’s adding more wall thickness to the arrow which I believe increases the spin stiffness


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What is your bow specs poundage speed and draw length? Are you putting brass up front? it’s not going to make a difference with the spin of the arrow, any weight you put up front will weaken the spine but with that being said if you run a 2 inch footer or insert in a 28 inch arrow it makes the dynamic spine 26 inches, the arrow stops flexing at insert or footer, shortening the dynamic spine making it stiff

 

[TimberHunter]

What is your bow specs poundage speed and draw length? Are you putting brass up front? it’s not going to make a difference with the spin of the arrow, any weight you put up front will weaken the spine but with that being said if you run a 2 inch footer or insert in a 28 inch arrow it makes the dynamic spine 26 inches, the arrow stops flexing at insert or footer, shortening the dynamic spine making it stiff

28.5” DL, 66lbs, 330 FPS IBO nitrum 34. Arrow software says 340 spine is ideal at 28” shaft but it sounds like if I use a 1.5” footer, my arrow 28” will act like a 26” shaft

In the past I’ve had good luck with 300 spine arrows, 330 spine Easton arrows show a slightly weak spine at 50 yard shooting broadheads


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[Don Qui Puncher]

I always tend to go stiffer the 300 would be perfect and it would let you run a brass insert if you want, I’d go that route especially if you have had good results in the past or if you ever wanted to bump up point weight

 

[MikeG]

I've got my footers made up, thanks for the tips. I assume you epoxied them to the shafts, what did you use? Any issues?

 

[Don Qui Puncher]

I built a handful with insert iron from Bohning no issues so far I like that it’s heat reversible so you can dip in boiling water and remove if needed, I’ll run these for a while to see how they hold up but will most likely use the Easton HIT epoxy before the hunting season

 

[MikeG]

Perfect, thank you!

 

[Don Qui Puncher]

Finally getting caught up with some builds