DIY Longbow

[Wrench]

With the patience to work the wood and glue....you should twist up your own strings. I have 2 nails on my shop wall and use them for my loops. No jig, just 2 nails and 10 minutes of my life.

Nice work.

 

[Bow_Hiker_]

Fantastic work and write up! I cut a stave this past fall and have it drying still, I have been avoiding it for fear of failure! Going to make the leap after reading this thread!

 

[Kindo]

With the patience to work the wood and glue....you should twist up your own strings. I have 2 nails on my shop wall and use them for my loops. No jig, just 2 nails and 10 minutes of my life.

Nice work.

I’m thinking that and some leather work will be next on my list of things to learn! Any recommendations on string material or any other necessities for strings? Also, any good resources for reading up on it?

Thanks!

 

[Kindo]

Fantastic work and write up! I cut a stave this past fall and have it drying still, I have been avoiding it for fear of failure! Going to make the leap after reading this thread!

I’ve got a stave down at my bench too, just working up the courage to start that one. Got it as a gift about 20 years ago and I’m hoping it hasn’t dried out too much (if that’s even a thing?)

 

[Kindo]

I was able to get after the riser for some final shaping today. I don’t have an artistic bone in my body, but I have to say there’s something about making your own grip that just flows. The more I got after it today, the more some of the lines and contours just made sense. It’s far from the work that the pros do, but at least it’s not a giant hunk of wood with a bunch of flat surfaces anymore.

After finishing up the grip, I heard the postman come with my next project as well as my strings!

I threw the string on, checked the tiller and brace height, threw a quick nock point on and ran outside to sling the first arrow and take some glamour shots.

Im happy to say it didn’t blow up and zips the arrows with authority!

my apologies for all of the portrait mode pics. I set it to take a few and when I got inside, most of the pics ended up being in that mode. Even though today finally crept up to almost double digits, I still didn’t feel like going back out to take more.

Now I just need to figure out how to keep the paduak sawdust from sanding, out of my maple and bamboo so it doesn’t turn pink, and then I’ll be getting a few coats of finish on it.



First arrow at 20 yards with a random shaft. With the proper spine arrow and some tuning, I’m thinking this one should be deadly.
Sadly, that was my only shot at 20 yards as that arrow is still stuck in my frozen target.

Hopefully I can get a few coats of finish on this, and make up a grip wrap and shelf pad before too long. I’ll post up when I have the final product.

 

[Felix40]

Nailed it. Looks awesome.

As for string making, I like excel and rhino material a lot. You will definitely need a jig to make Flemish twist strings. Look up some templates online and you can make your own for almost nothing.

 

[Wrench]

I’m thinking that and some leather work will be next on my list of things to learn! Any recommendations on string material or any other necessities for strings? Also, any good resources for reading up on it?

Thanks!

Your string choices will depend on the limb tips. If you are worried, just grab some b50 to break in.

For resources, clay Hayes has a great video on it. ....if not several.

 

[Wrench]

I do not use a jig to build my flemmish strings.

 

[Felix40]

I do not use a jig to build my flemmish strings.

I looked up Clay Hayes to see how you do that. I had no idea guys did it like that. I’ll still take the speed and repeatability of a jig but it’s good to see how that’s done.

 

[Wrench]

It's faster for me to not mess with my jig....and I get a better product. My nails are set and I make my wraps. The jig helps with the termination of the ends,
But the nails on the wall are more rigid and consistent than all the pins.... it's really east to just cut the strings at different lengths. Do a few and it'll me complete sense.

 

[Sheepdog]

Man, that is turning out really nice!

 

[Dirtydan]

What kind of finish are you thinking of using? I would try to steer you away from using something like a spray poly. If you do want to go the rattle can route, I'd look into VHT clear coat for vehicle rims. It's not going to give you the same quality as Thunderbird or Krystal (my preference) but not bad.

 

[Kindo]

What kind of finish are you thinking of using? I would try to steer you away from using something like a spray poly. If you do want to go the rattle can route, I'd look into VHT clear coat for vehicle rims. It's not going to give you the same quality as Thunderbird or Krystal (my preference) but not bad.

Hey Dan, sorry for the delay. Unfortunately, the custom call maker I know stopped using TBird and I was hoping he’d be able to show me the ropes a bit. I’m currently trying the VHT on my first bow and just wrapped up #2 (this is incredibly addicting....) So far, I’m not terribly impressed. I’m going to knock it down with some wet sanding and try a satin coat on top of the gloss (all I’ve been able to find). What is the Krystal you speak of? I’ve tried looking for that brand and didn’t have luck or it sounds like it’s an older product
Thanks!

 

[Kindo]

I figured since I was on a roll, I’d tackle #2 while I was at it.

My second grip is coming out a little nicer. She still seems a bit chunky up top by I’m hesitant to remove much wood as this wood isn’t as dense as I initially thought.

Ive always been a sucker for curves...

 

[Dirtydan]

Hey Dan, sorry for the delay. Unfortunately, the custom call maker I know stopped using TBird and I was hoping he’d be able to show me the ropes a bit. I’m currently trying the VHT on my first bow and just wrapped up #2 (this is incredibly addicting....) So far, I’m not terribly impressed. I’m going to knock it down with some wet sanding and try a satin coat on top of the gloss (all I’ve been able to find). What is the Krystal you speak of? I’ve tried looking for that brand and didn’t have luck or it sounds like it’s an older product
Thanks!

Yeah, VHT isn't worth a crap. Tbird is good stuff but the application process is a hassle.
I started using Krystal after sharing a campfire and talking shop with Chad Holm one year at a trad shoot in Colorado. He swore by it and so do I.

Krystal® |

www.mlcampbell.com

Big Jim used to sell Krystal in pints but I don't see it on his site any more. I'd give him a call and ask because it's that good, and that expensive. Unfortunately Campbell only sells it in gallon cans for something like $150.

 

[Kindo]

Yeah, VHT isn't worth a crap. Tbird is good stuff but the application process is a hassle.
I started using Krystal after sharing a campfire and talking shop with Chad Holm one year at a trad shoot in Colorado. He swore by it and so do I.

Krystal® |

www.mlcampbell.com

Big Jim used to sell Krystal in pints but I don't see it on his site any more. I'd give him a call and ask because it's that good, and that expensive. Unfortunately Campbell only sells it in gallon cans for something like $150.

I decided to just go the T-bird route. In the end, I think that’s where I’d end up anyways. Now it’s time to make myself a temporary spray booth and play around with some pieces of scrap.

I was tempted to reach out to Mr Holm as I’ve heard nothing but great things about him and his work but was recently told he passed away last fall. It’s too bad, as he seemed like a wealth of knowledge.

 

[Beendare]

Beautiful work.

My only suggestion would be to put the shelf hump right above your hand and not in the center of the riser.

—

 

[Kindo]

Beautiful work.

My only suggestion would be to put the shelf hump right above your hand and not in the center of the riser.

—

I appreciate the feedback. Initially, I got a little aggressive with my rasp on the first bow and the hump shifted forward to where you see it. My first location was still a bit farther forward than it should’ve been though.

 

[JungleDan]

Having wrapped up our last pheasant hunt in SD the previous weekend and my Packers not making it to the big game, I figured I’d better get some work done on this bow.

I pre-heated all of my components in the bow oven and then quickly layed them out, slathered on the epoxy and stuck it in the form. (I made that sound much easier than it was. I honesty thought I screwed up the whole glue-up until I got home from work the next day). After you put it all together and wrap in plastic wrap, epoxy and plastic wrap are EVERYWHERE and you can’t see what you’re doing.

The next evening, I ground down the sides to remove the excess epoxy and peeled some tape off just to get my first look at everything.
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After getting the limbs taped up again, I did a rough layout for the limb profile/taper and then used my sander to bring them down to my lines.

Next, I added some tip overlays and cut the nock grooves. I don’t know if I’ll leave the tips in the arrowhead looking form or not. I may trim them down a bit on the belly side to clean them up and remove a little mass off the tips.
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At this point, we can finally check our tiller and see if we have a weak/strong limb and any twisting. I didn’t have a proper string for this (it’s in the mail) but I found a spare for an old recurve and added enough twists to get me close enough for a quick look.
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very cool

 

[Shawn Hultquist]

You’ll want to seal the pauduck wood if not it’ll bleed and run. You can use bowyers cement (ca glue). I prefer sealing it with spray on shellac (bullseye). It dries in minutes and continues to soak in. I usually put on five to six coats. Then for finish I prefer Buffalo hide from big Jim or you can use Tbird they are the same. Only difference Jim is mixed with a little matte in it. I also like the way Buffalo hide goes on as well. I prefer to spray from farther away the last four to five coats to give it a speckled or textured finish. Bow looks awesome. Your correct it’s very addicting. Post the final pics


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