Double check me on arrows for recurve

Rob5589

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Man, choosing arrows for a recurve isn't easy. Using the 3Rivers calculator I have come up with .500 spine and anywhere from 100-125 grain points, shaft length dependent. This is a new to me recurve to learn on and decide where I go from there. No serious hunting planned with this bow.

The bow: Southwest Archery Tiger Shark (similar to a Sage) 1/8" cut past center, 35lbs @ 28", drawing at a guess of 29-30" based on my current 30.5"dl on a compound, ff flemish string, shooting 3 under, no string walking.

Does the .500 sound in the ballpark? I have an arrow saw so no problem shortening the shaft. The Black Eagle Vintage carbon (from 3Rivers) is interesting as it comes in a 34" uncut length as opposed to many others at 30-31". They come fletched, which I do not have the ability to handle feathers currently.
 

geewhiz

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I just went through all this and its fairly intimidating at first.

You can buy tuning kits from 3rivers which means you can buy a kit of arrows of different spines and you can buy a kit of different weight tips. If I were doing it again I would buy one of each and play around until you get that perfect flight.
 

Wrench

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I shoot 500's in several bows from 46-50# and all run 190-250 up front on 31" shafts. 34 is unknown territory, but I'd imagine you could do it....but might be skinny on weight at 125.
 

Warmsy

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Yeah buy the tuning kits. Every calculator and table I used ended up being way different than the two arrows setups I actually used. Get the three arrows kits and a variety of field trips, as stated above. That's the only way to really know
 

Macleod

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I had almost the exact same setup starting out — 35# OMP recurve, 3 under — and bought some Black Eagle Vintage .500s cut arbitrarily 2 inches longer than my 29” draw length with 125 gr points. It shot fine. If you’re just starting out on trad, I think getting in the ballpark is more important than picking the precise right arrow. Your form probably won’t be consistent enough to outshoot your arrows. At least, mine wasn’t. I broke a bunch anyway.
 

Beendare

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All of my bows are cut further past center and typically like a stiffer shaft.

I know the bows like yours are the opposite but best way is like these guys said, buy some one off shafts and the FP test kit.

I dont even fletch them, just shoot bare shaft right out of the gate. You will know when that shaft flies well.

.
 

Rick653

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The calculator on 3 rivers was alot to take in. I eventually just went through Lancaster and ordered up single arrows of different spines to make my own test kit
 
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Rob5589

Rob5589

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Thanks everyone. As a new shooter, do you think a bareshaft would be a good indicator, or should I go fletched? I'm guessing I don't need a perfect tune initially but something close enough to give a relatively good indication of how I am shooting.
 

sneaky

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Well. A fletched shaft will cover up a lot of form flaws. A bare shaft won't. At a minimum I'd suggest having at least one bare shaft to compare with your fletched ones.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Wrench

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If you dont have good form, you have no business bare shafting.....itll amplify mistakes and sell you arrows you don't need because of form error. I'd get your arrows and see what happens. You can always run a screw with washers to tune and then weigh what works.....first, get that form nailed down.
 

bkspyder

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I always say one should figure out a way to setup your iphone or android to record slow motion of your arrow leaving your bow - bareshaft, fletched, broadheads, etc.
I mis-read my first attempts at tuning badly, but once I had this setpup I could see exactly what was happening and not have to interpret shot landing
 
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