Draw Boards

Whisky

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Dec 25, 2012
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1,257
I think I want/need one. Do you guys get by without them, or are they a necessity nowadays for cam and half and 2 cam bows?

Let me be clear now. I ALREADY HAVE A GOOD PRESS. So I'm not looking to buy a Bowtime Machine or any other combo unit. I'm looking for a decent drawboard only.

Suggestions for purchase? DIY instructions?

These two have caught my eye.

Kwik-shooter Kwik-Draw
http://www.kwik-shooter.com/#!products/cp12

Proscale Lite
http://www.myproscale.com/ProScale_Lite.php

Leaning towards the Proscale Lite....

Thanks!!
 

wapitibob

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Feb 24, 2012
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Bend Oregon
a 2X6, boat crank, 5/16 rope, snap eye, 5/16 screw in eye, and a 3/4" bolt is all you need.
Best $50 and 30 minutes I had spent in a long time.
 

jmez

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Jun 12, 2012
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Piedmont, SD
What bob said. Takes about 20 minutes to build one and I am a horrible carpenter. There are some good plans over on Archery Talk on how to make them. Nuts-n-bolts has a easy to follow post on construction.
 
OP
Whisky

Whisky

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Dec 25, 2012
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1,257
What bob said. Takes about 20 minutes to build one and I am a horrible carpenter. There are some good plans over on Archery Talk on how to make them. Nuts-n-bolts has a easy to follow post on construction.

You and me both....

I'm working my way through his tuning guide. I will look for it in there, or find it on AT. His guide is really what got me thinking about this. I can do basic shit, but I want to do more.
 

123 4/8 P&Y

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May 17, 2012
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268
If you DIY get a worm gear style winch. I use the cheap one sold by harbor freight. It works well. There is no clicker and you can let go of the handle and it won't unwind. The only disadvantage is the ratio is such that it requires a ton of cranking to get a bow back. But at full draw you can stop it just before the pegs or posts make contact, and easily see which cam needs to be advanced or retarded.
 

123 4/8 P&Y

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May 17, 2012
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http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-capacity-geared-winch-5798.html

This is the one. I put my spring scale in line for some forgiveness, in case I accidentally cranked it hard into the wall. Good thing too because one afternoon I was hurrying to get my cams synced before league night. I was letting it down and something didn't look right. I was cranking it the WRONG WAY! I pulled 85 lbs. into the wall! I'm sure if that scale wasn't there the force would've been great enough after a few cranks that I would've ripped something apart.
 

Jared Lampton

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Oct 15, 2012
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321
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northwest montana
built my own too. added a pull scale and an s-biner. been using it for 5 years now. worm drive winch sounds like a great idea btw...might have to modify...
 

Tilzbow

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Dec 25, 2012
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319
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Reno, NV
I've seen guys use a worm drive winch in combo with a drill to turn the winch and it looked to be real quick. That was, of course, a few weeks after I bought the standard boat winch......
 

Rent Outdoor Gear

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You don't need a draw board to sync up cams. Put a stout hook in the wall (in a stud obviously) that you can hook the string on and pull the bow. That's all you need to time a cam & 1/2. There have been almost a million timed that way at the factory now.
 

TJ

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Feb 25, 2012
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637
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N.E Oregon
a 2X6, boat crank, 5/16 rope, snap eye, 5/16 screw in eye, and a 3/4" bolt is all you need.
Best $50 and 30 minutes I had spent in a long time.

What bob said. Takes about 20 minutes to build one and I am a horrible carpenter. There are some good plans over on Archery Talk on how to make them. Nuts-n-bolts has a easy to follow post on construction.

I use one to set my idler parallel to my string. Much more accurate than guesstimating idler lean on a solocam.
 

Chesapeake

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Apr 15, 2012
Messages
211
My budy built his with the worm drive winch above, 1.5 or so inch square tube frame with a plate for the winch and a 2" round pipe piece for the bow with pipe insulation on it for padding. Just a little welding to make it. He puts it in the bench vise to hold it for use. Then stand it in the corner for storage.

The worm drive is great. You can do micro type adjustments instead of the one tooth adjustments on the pinion gear type. It is great for adjusting cams and for setting up dropaway rests. Very easy to stop it at any point in the draw or let down to see whats what. You can park the draw stops 1/32 from the cables to check timeing easy as a twitch on the crank.

If you mounted up a release you could easily use it as a shooting machine.

You'll be shaking your head wondering why you didnt do it a long time ago.
 

123 4/8 P&Y

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May 17, 2012
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You don't need a draw board to sync up cams. Put a stout hook in the wall (in a stud obviously) that you can hook the string on and pull the bow. That's all you need to time a cam & 1/2. There have been almost a million timed that way at the factory now.

So you're saying you can hold the bow steady enough to get one cable barely touching the peg, then look at the other side and determine how far off it is? I have a hard time picturing how that could be very precise. How do you keep from putting more pressure on one side of the bow than the other? Do you pull right at the grip?
 

Rent Outdoor Gear

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Sure, the cams are slaved together on binary and cam & 1/2 bows - you can't really alter synchronization by pulling harder on one end or the other like you can with a 2-cam. Grab your string below the serving and yank it back - the cams will hit just like they do when drawn from a D-Loop. If you pull it on a hook you can flip it so you can see both the peg and top module side easily and it's pretty easy to control as you let it up to see exactly what's going on with cam sync.

HOWEVER... I wouldn't recommend doing this on a spring style bow-scale. You will have a heck of a time letting it up easily without the spring letting up on the scale. Use a solidly anchored hook.

DC
 

123 4/8 P&Y

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May 17, 2012
Messages
268
Sure, the cams are slaved together on binary and cam & 1/2 bows - you can't really alter synchronization by pulling harder on one end or the other like you can with a 2-cam. Grab your string below the serving and yank it back - the cams will hit just like they do when drawn from a D-Loop. If you pull it on a hook you can flip it so you can see both the peg and top module side easily and it's pretty easy to control as you let it up to see exactly what's going on with cam sync.

HOWEVER... I wouldn't recommend doing this on a spring style bow-scale. You will have a heck of a time letting it up easily without the spring letting up on the scale. Use a solidly anchored hook.

DC

Gotcha. I have a bowtech so my cams aren't slaved.
 

Rent Outdoor Gear

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Gotcha. I have a bowtech so my cams aren't slaved.

I guess it depends on which Bowtech you have... the binaries are slaved, the newer cams are more of a blend between a 2-cam and a binary type system. I haven't tried synchronizing cams on one of those to see if they can be affected by torque or not. If they can, then it would be best to sync cams in YOUR hand because no draw board will replicate the torque you apply by hand. Have a buddy or someone at the pro shop observe as you draw and let the bow up to get the cams in sync. Back with 2-cam systems, changing the stabilizer weight would affect cam sync so it was crucial you timed the bow exactly the way you intended to shoot it.

DC
 
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