Draw check ah ha moment

[Wrench]

I blew up a few arrows this elk season stump and grouse shooting. Each time I drove the insert into the shaft after the shaft split open.

The obvious solution is footed shafts. I'm not going to stop shooting....so I'm looking at how I'll go about this and stumbled upon an interesting fact.

My arrows are currently proud of the riser and I can fine tune the foot and shelf pad to act as a draw check that shouldn't be able to change.

Does anyone see a flaw in this?

Thanks.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

The issue I ran into was that I needed a really solid contact point, aka, a hard shelf pad. But I was using it as a clicker of sorts. If you just want a general draw check it will work fine. You'll probably have a little variability in draw length if the pad is soft.

 

[Billy Goat]

I was told or read that Fred bear used the back of a broadhead on his index finger. Those would have been a bear razorhead that didn't have the back sharpened. I also don't believe your finger placement would be that consistent but I don't know.

 

[Wrench]

I'm running beaver shelf plates on two toelkes. Since I need or at least want to foot anyway,....I may try to trim to fit this. I like the idea of it not being a hard stop as It would buy me a bit of slack if I over drew.

 

[oldgoat]

Might pull the arrow off the string! If you have good form and run your shot sequence, it isn't needed till it is. For me personally, feeling a resistance from string hitting hat brim or broadhead touching fingers etc causes target panic.

 

[Wrench]

I've shot without a clicker for the last year but if I'm going to use a foot, I figure...kill two birds with one arrow. It won't pull off. I'll break the edge.

 

[Cbrick]

That’s what I do. Have a small diameter (1716?) Easton aluminum section as a footing collar behind the head, shooting FMJ 400’s. Once that bumps the riser I’m good to go. Or on other bows the broadhead hits my finger. I’ve got a long draw though.


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