Draw Length and Speed Question

Joined
May 14, 2016
Messages
14
Location
Cool, CA
Hi all,
So I have a 2018 pse evolve 31 that i recently purchased. I hadn’t shot in over a year due to my old PSE Drive R getting stolen, and finally purchased this new evolve. I have a short DL of 25” which was what my old bow was set at, and i loved that bow and shot it great. I told my local archery shop to set my new bow at that 25” length, and they did (So I thought). I sighted my bow in shot a 3D tournament, happy with the bow, but for some reason just felt crunched up when shooting. So I adjusted the draw length till I felt comfortable. I then realized that my local shop had the bow bottomed out for DL which was a 24-1/2 and i think they thought bottomed out was 25. either way I wasn’t bending my bow arm so much now, wasn’t crunching my head in to get my nose on string. ended finding comfort at 26” which was surprised with the length being that much longer, but i think it has something to do with a taller ATA bow compared to my old bow which was a 28” ATA bow to now going to a 31”.
Here is where the concern comes in. I use a spot hogg tommy hogg 3pin slider, and was shooting based off my old sight tape from when i sighted in on the 24-1/2” DL. I assumed that now that i lengthened my DL i would be shooting high on all my pins considering I added speed by lengthening the DL. instead I was having to use my 40 pin for my 20 which was a bummer for me because then i would lose my 100 pin on my tape and only be able to shoot 80 before my veins hit my sight housing. But what weirds me out was I was able to shoot 100 when my DL was set for a 24-1/2. Any ideas what is going on would be a huge help. my bow shop has not been able to help me and its kind of a bummer to lose that distance while adding DL. Thanks for any ideas, concerns and help in advance.
 

RosinBag

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Feb 27, 2012
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Roseville, CA.
There are many variables, but the big ones affecting what you are talking about, all else being equal like poundage and arrow weight, is strong angle. That equates to peep to arrow measurement and then your peep to pin measurement.

Your tape just needs to be re done for this set up. The difference of 40-20 is very small and is probably the difference of 90-100 on that tape. The bow you have now is far superior to your old bow, so I would work on building a new tape and you will find it will probably come out with a tape that will let you shoot 100 yards.

There is a “sticky” thread that has a link to building accurate sight tapes.
 
Joined
Sep 8, 2014
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Front Range, Colorado
Total sight distance/travel has more factors involved than just speed.
1. Peep height. Should be comfortable when the rear of the arrow is in the "pocket" between your lip & chin. Set it with sight in the middle of its travel. Moving it farther up gives more total range, lower gives less. I've found that overall it's best to set it exactly where it belongs for ideal form and not use this as a way to gain more pin range.
2. Total sight radius. A longer sight radius requires more travel to compensate for drop. Pulling the sight in closer to the riser will allow more range before hitting fletching (there's a trade-off here, the accuracy benefit may be debatable).
3. Arrow setup. Weight obviously plays a part, fletching configuration can do a lot too in terms of drag.
4. Your new bow may not be particularly fast at your DL. The PSE bows I've shot at 26.5" were highly disappointing in terms of speed. Shoot it through a chronograph and you'll know for sure.
Prime, Hoyt, Elite Option series, Matthews bows from the last two years, and some others are highly efficient at shorter DLs.
5. Sight housing size. I shoot a small housing on my Axcel for several reasons, but one benefit it greater fletching clearance. I think it allowed me another ten yards vs the typical 40mm housing.
 

RosinBag

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My suggestion on peep height for the set up you have, set it where the housing fits and marries up to your peep when it’s in the non sliding mode. So when all three of your pins are at the zero mark, make sure your peep and housing are good. The longer ranges your peep will seem a little low and short ranges it will seem a little high. You have to gloat your anchor slightly with a moveable sight.
 

BDT60x

FNG
Joined
Mar 19, 2019
Messages
15
I agree with what pathfinder said. I would guess most of it has to do with the increased peep to sight length. Suck your sight in a notch or 2 and it should raise your point of impact and give you more room on the bottom end.
 

BDT60x

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Joined
Mar 19, 2019
Messages
15
My mistake I didn't see that right away. If i remember right the tommy hog should have 2 or 3 different mounting positions, unless the have changed it. Depending on if he had it mounted out in the farthest position or if he already had it mounted close to the bow. It has been awhile since i have played with a tommy hogg.
 

RosinBag

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The TH does have two different mounting holes, but not far enough apart to change much or if at all.
 

Dillon L

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Mar 7, 2019
Messages
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I would check peep alignment, re-do your sight tape, and and double check your arrows aren’t hitting your rest or anything funky from being drawn farther then ever before.
 
OP
rymacphail
Joined
May 14, 2016
Messages
14
Location
Cool, CA
Thank you so much! this totally makes sense, kinda bummed my archery shop couldn’t give me the time to explain this to me. either way this makes complete sense. I have my sight set out to its farthest spot so I’m going to try and suck it in one notch. the peep to sight change in distance I’m sure now that you guys have explained it is the reason I am getting that initial drop on the low end. Thanks again for all the help.
 
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